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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks Dick, for your swift response much appreciatted!

Of course I'll look the gun over but are there specific points of what you might consider as ware and tare on a diamond back?

Price wise i can only compare it with other gunmakers but to me that's comparing apples with oranges. The DB is a bleu 6" barrel.It's on the shelf for 225 euros. That's about 300 US. But then again this is the first diamond back I've found in Holland. That attracts me the most to the DB.
Everybody at my gunclub has got Glocks, S&W-s, Rugers, Tanfoglio's, Beretta's or Heammerli to name but a few. I want something different in .22LR. The DB looks the best and reading the numerous topics on this forum about DB's it looks a lot of fun.
 

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The info you want is right on this forum. dfariswheel posted a message on 7 February under topic "Colt Revolver Timing Checks". It is quite comprehensive, and was very helpful to me when I bought a Diamondback a week ago. The .22 cal. version is hard to find here under $800 (in excellent condition), so the price you are considering sounds good if the gun is in good mechanical shape and you are happy with the appearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello everybody,

I'm new to this BB and need your advice.
I have started shooting guns for almost over a year now and that means that I'll be licensed by my goverment to purchase my first gun. Since my gunclub is reasonably well fitted for guncompetition in .22 LR with various makers of matchguns, I've dicided not to buy a matchpistol but a colt diamond back in .22LR. Now, here is my problem.

In the Netherlands Diamond Backs are a rarity. You'll find enough King Cobra's, Pythons and Anaconda's in there various calibres but DB's are scares. That means that getting good advice is difficult.
Can you please tell me what to look out for?
I've found one at a dealer, it's been used but I've no idea what to be aware of!

Thanks
gunsmoke
 

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Welcome to the forum!
I would check it out just like any other gun. Check for condition, fit, finish and most importantly timing. Then if the price is right and I don't have any idea what they go for in Holland, then buy it, they are one of the most hadsomely made guns in the world and you would be a standout owning one.

------------------
Dick

The watchwords for all mankind are.....Liberty and Freedom.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm beginning to understand why someone was calling you Doctor Dfarriswheel!I will most certainly use this checklist before I purchase this gun.

Many thanks to you and all!

Gunsmoke
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by don95sml:
The info you want is right on this forum. dfariswheel posted a message on 7 February under topic "Colt Revolver Timing Checks". It is quite comprehensive, and was very helpful to me when I bought a Diamondback a week ago.

Thanks for the hint but i couldn't find it. Can you please be more specific where i can find it?

gunsmoke
 

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Here's my Colt timing check and some things to inspect:

Take a look at the gun's screws. Look for damage to the screw slots indicating they've been removed and someone may have tampered with the insides.

Look for bent ejector rods by spinning the cylinder while it's open.

Look for a worn action by attempting to move the cylinder crane out of the frame while it's closed.
There will be some movement but too much indicates a bent cylinder crane.

The cylinder should close and lock smoothly with no need to press it into the frame.

The cylinder should open smoothly.

The ejector should operate smoothly.

Cock the hammer, and push firmly, but not too hard, on the back of the hammer.
It should NOT uncock.
If it does, it has "push off" and is unsafe.

Attempt to move the cylinder back and forth in the frame while the cylinder is closed.
There should be little or no detectable movement.
Excess detectable movement indicates the revolver cylinder is worn and has "end shake".

Check the chambers and barrel for corrosion, pitting, or bulges.
If the bore is fouled to the point where you can't see what's in there, ask the shop owner to clean the gun so you can see.

Look for general signs of excess wear, abuse, alterations, or damage.

Here's how to check the action for proper timing:
To check Colt timing:

BOLT RETRACTION AND "SNAP BACK".
Open the cylinder and look at the small "lug" in the bottom of the cylinder window. This is the cylinder locking bolt.

Cock the hammer, and watch as the bolt retracts into the frame and pops back out.

The bolt MUST begin to retract THE INSTANT the hammer begins to move.
There MUST be NO (ZERO) hammer movement possible before the bolt starts to retract.

The bolt should retract smoothly with no hesitation until it's fully retracted, then it MUST pop back out with a clean "snap".
There should be no hesitation, and no amount of "creeping" back out.

CYLINDER UNLOCKING.
Close the cylinder.
Use your left thumb or fore finger to again cock the hammer, closely watching the cylinder bolt as you SLOWLY cock the hammer.

As the hammer comes back, the bolt will retract away from the cylinder.

The bolt MUST retract far enough to unlock the cylinder BEFORE the cylinder begins to rotate.

If the bolt is still slightly engaged with the cylinder lock notch, the cylinder will be attempting to turn while still partially locked.

This produces a "catch" or "hard spot" in the trigger pull and will damage both the bolt and the cylinder lock notches.
This often appears as metal "pulled out" of the lock notches, with rounded off and burred notches.

BOLT DROP TIMING.
Continue to cock the hammer, laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent "free wheeling".

Watch for the bolt to drop back onto the cylinder. WHERE the bolt drops is CRITICAL.

The bolt MUST drop onto the lead or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch.
If the bolt drops too soon, (in front of the notch ramp), it will mar the finish of the cylinder.

The bolt SHOULD drop into the MIDDLE 1/3rd section of the ramp.

If the bolt drops late, (farther toward the actual locking notch) the revolver may display "cylinder throw-by".
In this condition, during double action shooting the cylinder may rotate PAST the locking notch, and fire in an unlocked condition.

It's the nature of the Colt action, that a hesitant or jerky trigger pull by the user can induce throw-by in even a properly tuned Colt.
The Colt trigger should be pulled with a smooth, even pull, with no sudden jerks at the beginning.

CYLINDER LOCKUP.
Continue to pull the hammer back and both watch and listen for the bolt to drop into the cylinder lock notch.

The bolt MUST drop into the actual lock notch BEFORE the hammer reaches full cock.

The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).

In this condition, with the hammer fully cocked, you can push the cylinder slightly, and you will hear the "CLICK" as the bolt drops into lock.

In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt dropping a little late into the lead, but usually wear in to correct timing.

If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem, but there will be extra finish wear.

If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate TOO far in double action and this can cause off-center primer hits and firing while unlocked.

Each of these checks should be done on EACH chamber. All of these checks are better done individually. In other words, do the bolt retraction check on all six chambers, then do the bolt drop test, and so on.

A properly tuned Colt will:
Have a smoothly functioning bolt with no sticky or hesitant movement.

Unlock before the cylinder begins to turn.

The bolt will drop onto the middle 1/3rd of the ramp.

The bolt will drop into the lock notch before the hammer reaches full cock.

Have a smooth trigger pull, which does stack, or get progressively heavier.
 
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