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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Likely Hondo or JPLower have the answers easy at hand but welcome anyone's comments.

I'd like to take a Peacemaker Centennial and transform it into a duplicate of an early nickel etched panel gun. Some of the details are obvious others aren't. Someone has published the list before on what it would take to get an exact copy.

Couple of questions right off. Looks to be regular blued screws not nitre blued screws and what kind of lacquer finish is on the walnut?

What I'd like to have...




And what I have now...



More of an original

Early Colt Frontier Six Shooter Etched Panel Single Action Army Revolver, #75398, .44-40 cal., 7-1/2'' barrel, nickel finish, blue screws and trigger, case hardened hammer, with one-piece varnished walnut grips. Mfg'd 1882. (Box top appears to be a good quality reproduction; bottom half is new.) Condition is excellent with light even toning to nickel. Fire blued screws remain bright. Etched panel remains clear. Cylinder axle shows marring with scuffs and scratches to bottom portion of barrel just forward of axle. Grips with losses to finish at high edge near butt with minor scuffing and showing at least 90% varnish. Action is tight and solid with bright bore. A beautiful early etched panel revolver. Est.: $10,000-$15,000.













 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
OK, I need a new etched panel barrel and correctly profiled front sight to get started. Figure Dave Lanara can make me up exactly what I need :)

Nutmeg can nickel anything I need nickeled. Trigger guard and back strap will require new nickel once I cut into them while fitting once piece walnut grips. Already bought some of Lanara's 100 year of walnut blanks for this project. I can nitre blue my own screws but thinking just a new set of polished blue Colt screws will be a better match from the pictures I have seen.

Hondo's list for the 45 of the Centennial Pair. I wonder how the list compares to on the nickel 44 Centennial gun?.

"Some have had these further "authenticized". To us sticklers with eye for authenticity for evaluating 1st gens for originality, there are seven corrective improvements that can be made. I've been compiling a list as I observed them. I'll probably decide I don't want to spend that much to correct. But Dave Lanara has done a few with specific corrections limited by the customer's wallet. Here's what I observe for anyone interested:

Feature: Accuracy:

Rear sight - "V" notch sight. 1873 - 1931correct
Base pin retaining - front entry screw. 1873 - 1896correct
Patent date markings - 2 line format. 1873 - 1877correct
Frame – No Rampant Colt marking - 1873 - 1890correct
Hammer - first style knurling length/shanknot correct – knurling right, but shank narrow, front to back.
Stocks - one piece oiled walnut. 1873 - 1891 militarycorrect but too fat!
Firing pin – fixed cone type. 1873 - 1905not correct – fixed, but contoured pin type
Assembly numbers - under frame and gate. 1873 - 1909correct
Trigger guard - flat bottom bow. 1873 - 1894correct
Trigger guard caliber markings - None.correct
Cylinder – BP chamfer, large flute. 1873 - 1913correct
Base pin bushing - removable 1873 - 1975correct
Base pin - small hole in each end of base pin. 1873 - 1903correct
Barrel rifling - rounded or bead type rifling. 1873 - 1910correct
Barrel address markings - first style Italics address. 1873 - 1876correct
Front sight - narrow blade but too large-.620” long base.not correct
Barrel - no caliber marking.correct exc. Anniv. legend
Serial numbers – All 3 visual. 1873 - 1920correct
Serial numbers – Trigger guard markings. Forward of bow. 1873 - 1919correct
Serial numbers - Frame. Forward of trigger guard. 1873 - 1940correct
Serial numbers - Barrel. 1873 - 1883 Under ejector housing.correct
Serial numbers - Cylinder side. 1873 - 1883correct
Ejector housing - tapered w/no full slotnot correct
Ejector head - Round "bullseye" style. 1873 - 1882correct
Ejector rod - Round style rod. 1873 - 1884correct
Loading gate -
tapered width.

Corners beveled where the trigger guard strap meets the wood


Royal blue

No fouling cutout top strap

Of course screw
threads
not correct



correct


not correct

not correct

not correct"
 

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Cylinder flutes need to be reground and shaped, and the frame on both sides in front need to be contoured correctly. It is not as easy as it all sounds, and the cost and time would be better spent on a first gen with these items already built in. Find a good late 1880's gun to work with, the frames are strong enough for cowboy loads and you can use the modern cylinder in it. It's interesting that this is a topic, because I know of a similar project that was done years ago by a nefarious character who turned one into a now highly valuable, engraved "antique", that currently is up for sale with an astronomical price.
 

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Colt did a run of etched panel nickel Frontier Six Shooters around 2010. Those barrels do not have the anniversary logo and might be a better starting point.

Throwing a set of blue screws and one-piece walnut on one of those would get you 95% of the way there pretty cost efficiently. But I realize cost is not always the primary factor when it comes to our whimsy.
 

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Cylinder flutes need to be reground and shaped, and the frame on both sides in front need to be contoured correctly. It is not as easy as it all sounds, and the cost and time would be better spent on a first gen with these items already built in. Find a good late 1880's gun to work with, the frames are strong enough for cowboy loads and you can use the modern cylinder in it. It's interesting that this is a topic, because I know of a similar project that was done years ago by a nefarious character who turned one into a now highly valuable, engraved "antique", that currently is up for sale with an astronomical price.
Cowboy loads? I hope you're not talking about smokeless loads in BP frames?
 

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I didn't know that there were nickel guns with case hardened hammers. And, after seeing one I am kind of surprised how much I like the looks of it :)
 
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