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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When progressively sanding course to finer grits what do you use (if anything) to remove the courser dust. I have just been blowing the dust off. Do you wipe it down with anything? THANKS
 

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I wipe it on my sleeve . In the process of making, I try to catch and save a lot of the saw and sand dust . I still don't know what for .
 
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If you decide to go super shine you will learn all the dips , chatters and left over grit scratches . That drives me crazy but its worth it some times , depends on the end use . If I make a pair I'm going to use I stop at around 220 grit, good quality wetndry . For me , I run it dry so no gum build up . Super shine like said above , your call . On a pair for a friend I went to 3000 grit and you can't convince me it was worth it . After a certain grit its not much more than rubbing on my thigh with jeans then a buff on my flannel sleeve . Just remember to reflect the piece in different lighting to make sure you get the all those scratches before to the next grit . Its a drag to find the one you missed and go backward . Any hoo , every one has his own way and when your done , you'll have yours . Best of luck and glad to hear you are doing your own .
 

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Depending on the material, I will wipe them down with a clean rag dampened with either water or odorless mineral spirits. I have never worked with real ivory though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Some Guy- "If I make a pair I'm going to use I stop at around 220 grit, good quality wetndry . For me , I run it dry so no gum build up . Super shine like said above , your call".I'm at 150-220 grit plus Very fine scotch pad. Doesn't have the glossy mirror shine but I kind of like it but will likely keep going to 2000 grit just because that's what one is supposed to do i.e, loss finish.
Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive tire Bumper Automotive wheel system
 

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One thing I've learned is leave everything proud . After you stare at it in different light you will get a bug and take down the pistol and fix a spot here and there . I have yet to be totally satisfied first round on anything I've built . I can pass them off to others that would say Fantastic work , I love them , even had a friend say , You're an artist . But when I make something as up close and personal as ivory can get with magnifying and grit to grit changes , I know all the lumps , scratches , contours , you name it . Maybe I'm a little embarrassed of someone else catching my flaws , not sure on that . A little proud if they are for your self . Play with them in lighting, fix what you might not like in the future if so inclined . I'm no expert by any means just trying to say good on you and thanks both for diving in and showing the picture progress . Never know until you try , right .
 

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Some Guy- "If I make a pair I'm going to use I stop at around 220 grit, good quality wetndry . For me , I run it dry so no gum build up . Super shine like said above , your call".I'm at 150-220 grit plus Very fine scotch pad. Doesn't have the glossy mirror shine but I kind of like it but will likely keep going to 2000 grit just because that's what one is supposed to do i.e, loss finish. View attachment 759780

One thing I know for certain . Super slick light bending finish will show all the dings and scratches as good as those parking lot Boo Boos .
 

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Those turned out really well...great job!
I was nervous enough doing my giraffe bone, I can't imagine the nerves doing real ivory. The large economy size bottle of Tums!
I hope you marked them on the inside somehow so future generations will know who is responsible for such fine work.
 
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