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154 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For the first time in many years I have disassembled and cleaned the internals of my well used Python. I am wondering if dry graphite (or graphite in liquid suspension) would be a good lubricant for the lockwork? If not graphite, can anyone give a recommendation?

1,130 Posts
factory specified lubricant is chemlube 303 by ultrachem.the part most prone to wear is rebound cam and bolt actuator tip{rebound end}. in my opinion the rebound is also the most difficult part to fit. two things to consider. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

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Lubrication is the most argued subject on most gun forums.
Everybody has their favorite, but the truth is the fact that you use SOMETHING is more important than WHAT you use.

Over the years, I've found that revolvers seem to work smoother with grease used to lube the heavy contact points, particularly the double action strut and hammer faces.

Over the years I've used about everything from the old Birchwood-Casey "Gunslik" graphite grease, to straight STP Oil Treatment, to my all-time favorite, "Super-Lube" Teflon grease.

I like the Super-Lube which is a clear-white synthetic that seems to do a better job of reducing friction on the hammer strut than anything else I've tried.

With many greases and lubes you can still detect a little "squeak" in double action.
Pulling the trigger VERY slowly will often reveal a slight amount of jerky sticking in even the best lubes, ESPECIALLY in Colt revolvers with their wider DA struts.

The Super-Lube is often sold locally in spray cans as a spray grease. When it comes out of the can, it's a liquid, in which the carrier quickly evaporates, leaving a thin grease.

Super-Lube is available as a "oil", the spray grease, and a true heavy grease.
The Oil and spray grease are more of a "thin grease-thick oil" consistency.

Even the "oil" stays put and doesn't migrate away like thinner lubes.

Another reason I like Super-Lube is, the clear-white turns dark gray when it gets dirty and serves as a good indicator that it's time for an oil change.

I usually bought mine direct from the company at

I also bought the spray cans locally, drained out the propellant and quickly transfered the contents into bottles, so I could apply it by hand.

Over the years, I did experiment with a few dry lubes like powdered graphite and Molybdenum Disulfide.
I never had much luck with dry lubes, mostly due to the fact that they usually offer NO rust proofing.

Bottom line is, after 30 plus years of field customer experience, I've found that grease works best in revolver actions.
It lubricates better, and stays put better. Unlike oils it doesn't dry out and turn to "varnish", gum up, sling off, run off, or wick off.
Unlike the dry lubes, it offers good rust resistance.

In actual field use, I suspect WHAT grease or lube you use is not important. Most any good grade grease will work.
I've recently experimented on rifles with Wal-Mart Super-Tech Moly-lithium grease.

It seems to work very well on M1's, but I still prefer the Super-Lube on revolvers.

I finally settled on the Super-Lube "oil" as the general lube for revolvers and pistols, with the Super-Lube grease used on the heavy contact areas.

I usually bought the Super-Lube oilers:
Super Lube Precision Oiler 1/4oz
Code: 51010
Price: $3.42

And the Super-Lube grease tubes:
Super Lube Synthetic Grease Tube 1/2oz
Code: 21010
Price: $3.11

For some applications, like as a general rust proofing coating, for lubing the AR-15 rifles, shotgun trigger groups, and for general lubrication, I use CLP Breakfree, which is about as good a general rust proofer-lube as there is.

154 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both for the input. I tried the graphite and it did slick up the action but I looked like a coal miner when I was done. Of course cleaning out 10-15 years of gunk that had built up inside no doubt helped too. The Super-Lube products seem to be the way to go, I will give them a try. I must say I have rediscovered that the Python lockwork has as much eye appeal as the outer finish does.
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