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Do you have the broken one?
Usually there is someone close by who can make one if you can give some idea of what was used originally.
My regular GS gets frustrated with flat springs and prefers not to try & make them. He says he always gets the temper wrong and they aren't worth a @#$%^.
I have a trainig partner who isn't afraid to try almost anything if I can specify the correct spring stock.
I also located the part at Numrich, but they wanted to sell me a complete ratchet pawl & spring assembly.
Mine is an 1892 (1902) that is pretty much of a wreck. There was enough of that little spring left so it still runs, but when I got into it the first time, the thing came out in 3 pieces, so I reckon I ought to replace it.
Wouldn't ya know, the cussed thing shoots real nice.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That flat spring can be fabricated from a piece of pocket watch mainspring.
See your local real watch repairman.
They will either give you a broken mainspring or long piece from which to work as a gesture of goodwill.
Clever, I googled pocket watch mainsprings and they look like something I could trim to length and bend into shape without needing to trim the width (maybe).
 

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If you are familiar with making springs, annealing, hardening, tempering, etc., I have spring stock & will mail you a snip of it for free if you will PM me with your snail mail address. Give whatever info you have re width, thickness or I will use my own judgment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you are familiar with making springs, annealing, hardening, tempering, etc., I have spring stock & will mail you a snip of it for free if you will PM me with your snail mail address. Give whatever info you have re width, thickness or I will use my own judgment.
That, sir, would not be me! But I appreciate the offer.

I am afraid that I may end up needing to buy this (https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/177880.htm) and have it fitted by a gunsmith. I went that route with my 1st M1901 and it has worked out well. It just seems wasteful to replace the entire hand when it is just the little spring that needs replacement.
 

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That flat spring can be fabricated from a piece of pocket watch mainspring.
See your local real watch repairman.
They will either give you a broken mainspring or long piece from which to work as a gesture of goodwill.
^^^^^ I will apply this scheme to my little problem. I never woulda thought of it.
The gunpartscorp option has less appeal because what ever you get, it is an antique spring, and has no better life expectancy than the broken or missing one. I reckon that a museum piece might qualify for an original part, but certainly not my sad old revolver.
I am a good example of 'that guy' who imagines he can resurrect a real piece of landfill/ballast. (I have done it before.)
Damned cussed thing shoots real good..... Wouldn't ya just know it?
 

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I've fixed three of my DA 38 hands with pieces cut from cheap auto feeler gauges from Harbor Freight. Since you have another gun to get an idea of length and bend, you have an example to work from. I cut the metal with tin snips to the proper width and length. I used the thickest feeler gauge that would fit in the slot of the hand and used a dab of JB Weld to hold it.

I have even used the same method to duplicate a hammer strut spring.

If it's stupid but works, it ain't stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I contacted a local clock & watch repair craftsman whom generously gave me some springs (his business is "G. Demers Watch and Clock Repair", name is Gaëtan Demers and his shop is literally a museum of clocks and watches). The two on the left are too thin/thick (maybe not too thick...we'll see), but the two on the right are very close to the original. I think I can bend them into shape; do I need a torch to heat-treat the spring or could I use a simple flame (i.e. zippo)?. I'm also not sure how I'll be able to secure the spring in the hand; perhaps loctite or even krazy glue?



I've fixed three of my DA 38 hands with pieces cut from cheap auto feeler gauges from Harbor Freight. Since you have another gun to get an idea of length and bend, you have an example to work from. I cut the metal with tin snips to the proper width and length. I used the thickest feeler gauge that would fit in the slot of the hand and used a dab of JB Weld to hold it.

I have even used the same method to duplicate a hammer strut spring.

If it's stupid but works, it ain't stupid.
Very clever! Did you need to heat-treat the springs you made from the feeler gauge?
 
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