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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This will come off a little odd , just me doing me . A long time ago seeing cap and ball type in mail order I did, in the back of mind take an interest . It's here again with me retired and possibly taking a new hobby I'm at it again . Let's start slow . Are caps available? and number 2 ,clone or real deal with all the homework ?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I just read about making paper cartridges . Is this a worth while endeavor ? Did some more reading and I'll probably start out with a clone . Easy peasy , lots of info out there .
 

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Powder.inc is listing Caps at this time 5/1/21 both RWS & CCI
CCI #10 Percussion Caps | Powder, Inc. | Master Distributor of Goex, Swiss and Schuetzen (powderinc.com)
As to guns, I'm partial to Colt 2nd Gens Black Powder Series for the Roll Barrel Address
and have several.
However I'm fully aware of Uberti and Pietta and have had both.
The best bang for you buck is Pietta entry price wise , but I like Uberti just bit more ( fit & finish is a bit better and is not covered with
BP ONLY / Made in Italy in prominent eyesight on the barrels )
Also Uberti offers a better selection of the plethora of Colt design line....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks man . It's rainy outside and me coming and going trying to start potatoes . I like shooting the SAA and planting potatoes , just thought it time to get around to cap and ball . Has the shortage caught up with caps or every thing kind of stable? I don't a couple bucks extra on a firearm , I'll start with middle high and go for a colt after I foul a few times . This is all new to me for sure but Today I read some on making my own powder . Bad habit of mine , jump in head first .
 

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You won't get hurt with a Pietta or my choice Uberti 51 Navy or 60 Army. I can't say the shortage is caught up ? I can say they are in stock for now @ Powder.Inc ( no dog in the fight ) they are just whom has some now !
And Midway has Uberti 1851 Navy Black Powder Revolver 36 Cal 7.5 Barrel Case Hardened (midwayusa.com)
Currently, not a lot is in stock ( @ most vendors ) and with pandemic hitting Italy so hard , it may be some time.
BP is available, I DO NOT recommend Pyrodex Triple 7 nor would I attempt (if I understood you correctly ??? ) to mix your own powder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes ,you read me correct on the powder . I have a buddy that makes his own so I do have a Tudor . I did see the Midway sale . Maybe a go in short hour bit but I was looking for a 5.5 inch type first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK , I have no clue as to what just happened . I placed the order with Midway for the 7,5 inch , had to verify through email , checked in and a note came up stating the price went from $329.99 to $266.75 . Never ever has Midway come treating me this way . Any way, that's a good start for a new hobby . I should buy another !
 

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I also prefer the Uberti guns for a better fit and finish and they offer a lot more choices. Their '51 Navy just feels right to me.
I have heard caps are running short in some areas but haven't looked myself. I have a pretty good supply.
I understand the lure of making your own powder and I messed with it a little years ago. As a semi-responsible adult, it just started looking like an accident waiting to happen. It hard to go wrong with good old-fashioned GOEX 3F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I live on an island in S.E.Alaska and supplies don't come easy . The local and only shop in town has no. 11 caps , 12 packs of 100 at $9.95 each . Will they do or just ok in a pinch type move ?
 

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No. 11 caps will work just fine. You might need to pinch them just a little to stay on the nipple.
 

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It's my understanding that most cap n' ball revolvers made within the past 10 or 20 years will not take CCI #10 caps. The CCI #10's are too small and they mostly fit certain older revolvers. My Uberti's manufactured within the past 5 years all like Remington #10's the best but they will take Remington #11 and CCI #11 as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys . This is all new to me .
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't mean to be a bug . And yes I recognize this is a Colt forum . With all that , I still need a little help . One step at a time , slow and steady wins the race . Which brand and model of nipple wrench do you like , so I don't have to buy 2 . I know it's a small cost but I don't need 2 . Uberti 1851 navy . 36 cal . Thank you .
 

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I have a few around here in different sizes and honestly have no idea who made made them. Dixie, CVA, Thompson-Center...lots of places have them as accessories. The key is to find one that fits.
Dixie Gun Works would probably be easiest.


You might also look for Uberti blackpowder revolver accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm going to try and keep this short . I came across a site by a fellow named John H. Fuhring called shooting black powder revolver . I'm getting good information and using this site as a one stop shopping before I do more search . Mind you , I've never handled a black powder revolver let alone loaded one . I have 2 dozen other types just no old school . With this fellows site he teaches to load powder , wad, grease then ball . That all makes good sense to me like reloading brass case black powder . On the other hand I have seen youtube users slathering the grease to the outside top of the cylinder , looks like wrong to me . Why would a shooter want to grease the hell out of a cylinder the holster up and go to battle with twig , dirt and bone chips stuck in the action ? Give me a lead on who is doing it half right . I can't come back until later . PS the John H Fuhring seem worth reading .
 

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The purpose of the grease is 3-fold:
1. It seals the chamber against moisture getting to the powder
2. It seals the chamber against the possibility (probability?) of a chain-fire
3. It keeps the BP fouling soft and easier to remove and not bind up the cylinder.

I can't honestly say which method is better but I have always loaded powder-wad-ball-grease and never had any issues. I does seem to me that if you load powder-wad-grease-ball, when you seat the ball you will force all (or most) the grease out or run the possibility of the ball not seated tightly against the wad.
 

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I load powder, ball then grease on top. I don't use wads at all. Sometimes I use Cream of Wheat as a filler if I want to do light loads. In which case I load powder, Cream Of Wheat, ball and top it off with grease.

The grease I use is homemade from lamb tallow and beeswax. No specific percentages, if I want it softer I use more lamb tallow, if I want it harder and less melty I use more beeswax.

In the old days I think most people just loaded powder and ball. No wads, no grease and no filler.
 

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Grease on top for me as well. I shoot a Pietta Remington NMA and I found the grease doubles the amount of shots I could make before the fouling got to bad for the cylinder to turn. The grease seems to keep the fouling in the barrel softer for easier removal. I use Bore Butter brand, only think about it is it gets runny on a hot summer day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The tallow ,beeswax mix looked about the cleanest in the short videos I saw today . I did watch Hicock 45 shoot without grease . I think I stick with cheap insurance of grease and the bit easier clean up (so I've read) . How about a mold? I have read .375 to .380 , it will be just as fast for me to buy through the mail as will pre made round ball . I prefer iron over aluminum . Again thanks guys
 

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There are literally dozens of different formulas out there for making your own grease and almost as many different ideas on how it should be used. I know guys who swear by plain Crisco and guys who use various combinations of tallow, bee's wax, Vaseline, lithium grease, and Lord knows what else. Like LanceW, I use Bore Butter because it was on the shelf when I needed some and I'm lazy.

I have a couple of round ball Lyman iron molds for 36 and 44 cal pistols. I also prefer iron molds although I do have some aluminum molds that throw out some really nice bullets. Going back to the "lazy" part above, I have bought way more round ball than I have cast.
 
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