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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As a novice SAA fan, I've learned a great deal from reading the posts here. Thanks Weagle99 and others for the thread highlighting problems and issues with some of the 3rd gen SAA revolvers out there. Purchased my first 3rd gen at a recent gun show, and BEFORE I came across that thread. Dang.

Anyways it's chambered in 357 mag, with a 4.75" bbl, cch finish. And yes, it has the tiny pressed-in cylinder bushing and the cylinder does indeed have a rattle to it when the hammer is down. Once cocked however, the cylinder tightens up nicely and the rattle is gone.

Upon a recent check of the gun's screws for tightness, all were tight except that the trigger screw took about 1/4 turn to snug it up. After doing so, I cocked the hammer and noticed that the gun went from the 4 clicking sounds to one or two, and the trigger seemed to be stuck in a rearward position. It simply wasn't cocking the way it should have. About to shift into panic mode, I backed the trigger screw off 1/4 turn and returned it to its original position. I cocked the hammer and everything seems fine again. Four nice crisp clicks and the cylinder locks into battery as it should.

Can anyone tell me what is happening mechanically with the cocking malfunction when I tighten down the trigger screw, and what if anything can be done to fix it? Is it possible to over-tighten the trigger screw to the point where it will interfere with the gun's action? Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated as I am not a gunsmith and admittedly do not know much about the internal workings of the SAA.

Thanks!​


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Try swapping the bolt screw with the trigger screw and see if you still have the same problem. If not then the screw would be the problem. I know of no reason for what you are experiencing other than the screw. Originally the two screws were slightly different lengths to compensate for the taper of the frame thickness but I think your gun may have both screws the same length. If they are the same length and the problem disappears when you swap the two screws your problem is solved. Keep us updated.

I will add: to do what I suggest remove the grips. Remove the 3 screws holding the backstrap and note the thickness of the heads. The thin head goes in the butt. Loosen the screw holding the main spring enough to allow the spring to be swung away from the hammer; there is no need to completely remove the main spring. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the triggerguard and note the head thickness of these screws, the thin head goes to the front. After the TG and BS are removed there is a screw holding the sear/bolt spring, remove it and remove the spring. Now you are free to swap the trigger screw and the bolt screw I mentioned. You won't know if the screw swap has fixed your problem until you reassemble everything. Reassemble in the reverse of the dissassembly. Use a good fitting screwdriver and leave all 6 screws in the BS and TG slightly loose until all are in place and then snug them down. Hope this helps.
PS: While you have the internals out for the screw swap check the trigger screw hole, on the inside of the frame, where it touches the trigger and see if there are any burrs etc. sticking into the opening that would touch the trigger when assembled.
 

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does your trigger screw have the washer? if not maybe this will allow you to over tighten the screw. i know on the colt diagram with the break down of the colt saa it shows a washer for the trigger screw as well as the hammer and bolt screws and iirc the backstrap and trigger guard screws as well. maybe this is the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hwjhfs,
Thanks for the advice. I've ordered the proper screwdrivers for the screw swap you mention. Am awaiting their arrival before I attempt to disassemble. The instructions you provided seem pretty straight-forward. Will let you know how things turn out.
 
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