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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just received a Colt Cobra that I bought at an internet auction. The gun was not as advertised, but the price was so cheap for a “98%” Cobra with box, that I decided to keep it and see if I could straighten out the problems. On further inspection, I'm getting more concerned.

The crane is so gummed up that it takes a lot of force to open and close. I first saturated the gun in MPro 7 and then immersed it in Simple Green. The crane was still not free, so I dried it off and applied some Break Free.

While drying the gun, I noticed the barrel has a distinctly different, grey-er, hue than the traditional Colt blue on the rest of the gun. I've seen this happen when a gun has been fired a lot, but this gun hasn't been used enough to develop any discernable cylinder line (although it certainly HAS been fired).

I looked up the serial number and Wilson says Cobra's are supposed to have "LW" suffixes--mine doesn't. The Standard Catalog of Firearms says Cobras have round butts except for the 4" models, which are square. Mine is a 2" square butt.

The really confusing part is the gun came with the original box and purchase receipt--both of which identify the gun as a Cobra and have serial numbers that match my gun. The serial number on the gun is 230¬ó1, which is the correct 1967 range for the purchase receipt date.

Am I being overly paranoid? Or is something funky up with this "Cobra"??

Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions!

Peter

PS: I'll post some pics when I get it cleaned up and back together.
 

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Did you try removing the yoke-retaining screw and see if it frees up? Sometimes if a gorilla torques it down, it can put enough pressure on the yoke to make it difficult to rotate, or it could be rust in there. In either case I would pull it off and inspect it. Dick
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you try removing the yoke-retaining screw...? --Dick/QUOTE]

Um, I had to admit this, but...I'm not much of a gunsmith and I don't actually know how to do this. In fact, I don't know what the "yoke retaining screw" is or where to find it.

If it goes beyond basic cleaning, I'll take it to a 'smith--out of fear of really buggering it up myself.

Thanks anyway for the tip!

Peter
 

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Not really!
The yoke-retaining screw is forward most screw on the sideplate. With a good fitting screwdriver remove the screw, then open the crane and with a little wiggling and forward pressure the whole yoke-crane-cylinder should slide forward and off. Once off you will see where the retaining screw fits into the yoke. This is not gunsmithing and anyone can do it, first just remove that front screw and see if the yoke frees up. Dick
 

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I had a Cobra about that vintage in the late 70's. I remember the barrel finish was different also, more grey. Maybe it has a barrel cover over the inner rifled barrel and is aluminum?
 

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Snake eyes,

I had a Cobra from the late `60's to the mid-80's. It was carried daily as a BUG.

There was a distinct difference in the color of the barrel and the frame. I bought it used but I knew the original owner and he said that it was like that when he bought it.

After about 15+ years of shooting, it went "out of time". I called Colt and got a run-a-round, so I used it to trade for a Smith 469. I made two mistakes:

1. I traded the Cobra
2. I bought a 469

John
 

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Many people notice a different "color" on the Cobra's and Agent's, and this often due to the anodizing on the aluminum frame not being able to match the chemical bluing on the barrel. You can't get a good match, and the difference is noticeable.
Some Cobra's and Agent's did have "odd" colored barrels for a time.

As for the butt discrepancy: The round butt refers to the STOCKS, not the frame. Early Cobra's had a full profile grip frame with rounded edges. Later guns changed to a "stubby" flat bottom grip frame with stocks that overlapped on the bottom.

A 1967 Cobra would have the stubby frame with checkered walnut stocks that overlap the bottom of the frame. These stocks would have a rounded bottom.
No problem, just a failure of the book to explain.

The serial number is obviously one of Colt's little jokes. Yes, it should have had a "LW" included in the serial number, but Colt was known for not being too concerned about such things.
Again, perfectly normal.....for Colt.

If you've sprayed the gun with a water-based
cleaner, be sure to get a good coat of lube EVERYWHERE to prevent rust.

I'd let the CLP soak in a day or two, and see if that doesn't free things up. Aluminum guns have a problem with dirt and grit embedding into them and causing things to stick or drag. A speck in the crane assembly and the Colts can get very stiff to open.

Bottom Line: Sounds like you have a nice completely correct Colt Cobra.

The color difference is normal because of the aluminum/steel difference.
The serial number is normal.
The butt should be short, stubby, and squared-off, with overlapping, round butt grips.
The gun may need to be partially disassembled and cleaned of grit and dirt.

Removing the cylinder and crane assembly is not a major job, and no parts are going to go flying.
As above, the front "screw" on the right side of the frame is removed.
This is NOT actually a screw, it's a threaded cap.
Unscrew it carefully with a well fitting screwdriver, and underneath you'll find a spring and a small stud. Slip them out, and the cylinder and crane assembly can be slipped forward and off the frame.

Clean the frame where the crane fits, and clean the crane itself, throughly.
Lube up and slip the assembly back into the frame. Check it for free movement.
Then, put the stud and spring back into the hole, and thread the cap on with your fingers, NOT the screwdriver.
Check for free movement again, then carefully
tighten the cap with a screwdriver.

If after this, things are still stiff, see a gunsmith.
 
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