I recently bought a 2-1/2" Python that came with a set of MOP grips w/o a Colt insignia. They are nearly perfect in condition, and look awesome.... BUT I'm not a big MOP fan. I replaced them with a set of original service grips and would like to sell them for a fair price. They are the same size and dimensions as the original wooden service grips. I read about heating a needle and burning the backside as a test, but this isn't an option with these grips as they have a black backing on the MOP itself. They do look very realistic, but without damaging an exposed surface how can I tell for sure? I can post pics, but I've seen excellent plastic copies that were nearly impossible to tell, just by looking. Any ideas?
jetman
How to tell if MOP grips are real?
My guess would be that with a black backing they are imitation. Jay Scott grips are prime examples. Do they have any markings? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Find an area that will not show a small spot. Heat a needle and press it to the grip, if it melts in its plastic. If it does nothing it is MOP.
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Find an area that will not show a small spot. Heat a needle and press it to the grip, if it melts in its plastic. If it does nothing it is MOP.
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If you read my entire post you'd see I mentioned your technique... but I don't have an area to try it on that wouldn't be seen and I don't want an ugly melted/burnt spot on the exterior of the grips if not necessary. Would you want to buy a set of grips with a burnt test spot?
Find an area that will not show a small spot. Heat a needle and press it to the grip, if it melts in its plastic. If it does nothing it is MOP.
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If you read my entire post you'd see I mentioned your technique... but I don't have an area to try it on that wouldn't be seen and I don't want an ugly melted/burnt spot on the exterior of the grips if not necessary. Would you want to buy a set of grips with a burnt test spot?
I'm not bent on destruction of your grips, but how about if you drilled a relatively small hole through the backing just till you reach the material in question, then perform the test? Feel free to wait for other suggestions. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif No markings? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Surely the locater pin hole is through the black plastic, or very close. Just deepen that hole until it gets into the white area and then test.
I am nearly positive that any set with the black plastic back is fake, since that seems to be how most fake sets are made. I have never seen real MOP with a plastic back. What would be the purpose of such a back on real MOP?
The weight should also be a clue. MOP is very heavy, whereas plastic is not. Tapping it with a screwdriver should also yield a clue since plastic will not have the same sound as MOP, similar to the difference between tapping Plexiglas and tapping real glass.
Black plastic back = fake.
I am nearly positive that any set with the black plastic back is fake, since that seems to be how most fake sets are made. I have never seen real MOP with a plastic back. What would be the purpose of such a back on real MOP?
The weight should also be a clue. MOP is very heavy, whereas plastic is not. Tapping it with a screwdriver should also yield a clue since plastic will not have the same sound as MOP, similar to the difference between tapping Plexiglas and tapping real glass.
Black plastic back = fake.
In a related vein I bought a police positive in nickel with real MOP stocks. Short of a letter is there a way to tell real colt stocks from quality replacements. Mine are also without emblems. The escuscheons and screw appear to be nickel plated too.
any colt factory stock produced after the introduction of medallions in or about 1912 should have them, when was the gun made?? if you will note factory boxes{inside lid} and advertisments of the era it states " this medallion inserted in EVERY pair of genuine colt revolver or automatic pistol stocks of pearl or ivory, it is a guarantee of quality."
If you want to know if the grips are mother-of-pearl compared to plastic, there is a simple way to tell. As weird as it may seem, you can simply take the grips and very gently rub them across your front teeth as if you were biting them. If they are super smooth, they're plastic. If they "feel" gritty to your teeth (don't scratch them for crying out loud or hurt your teeth!), then they're mother of pearl.
Although it won't help in your case, I have found that all the real pearl grips from guns in my collection have a rather dull unpolished back surface ~ even those with the deepest color and "fire" on the polished external surface. The only set of artificial pearls I have (from a M-1903) show a bright pattern on the back surfaces as well, and are indeed lighter in weight, and are less colorful, than the genuine pearls.
I always understood the red hot pin test to be appropriate for ivories, but it makes sense in this case as well as plastic is plastic no matter what else it appears to be.
I always understood the red hot pin test to be appropriate for ivories, but it makes sense in this case as well as plastic is plastic no matter what else it appears to be.
You'll come to know this as you see more grips and get exposure to the aftermarket items that have come and gone over the years - but if they have a black backing they are almost certainly Jay Scott imitation polymer pearl.
Theyre is no mistaking between real pearl and imitation to the familiar eye. Real pearl is heavy, glassy, and has brilliant mirroring on the exterior surfaces.
Imitation is fairly light and definetly does not have a glass feel. The backings were fairly unique to the Jay Scott grips - these days companies like Ajax don't use backings.
Theyre is no mistaking between real pearl and imitation to the familiar eye. Real pearl is heavy, glassy, and has brilliant mirroring on the exterior surfaces.
Imitation is fairly light and definetly does not have a glass feel. The backings were fairly unique to the Jay Scott grips - these days companies like Ajax don't use backings.
Gunnut my PP dates(according to proofhouse)to 1927, so I guess I just have a nice set of replacement stocks. I don't have a box or papers, so haven't seen the lid information you mentioned.
Thanks guys, I'm convinced they are plastic and it was my original thought, I just wanted to know short of messing them up if there was a way. They don't seem quite as nice as some I've seen and don't pass the "teeth test" either. Thanks for the input!! ... anyone interested in a set of "Genuine Imitation MOP Python Service Grips"
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