Colt Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As the title states, I am looking for a metal trigger to replace the factory plastic trigger on my Government Model 380.

The only 'hop-up' parts I've seen are grips (and a very poor selection at that) and guide rods.

Since doing a major cleaning, polishing the feed ramp and slight filing on my extractor, the gun has been reliably running any rounds I put into it, and I'm running out of things to make better, as everything seems to be running at peak efficiency right now, but I would like the trigger to be metal.

I'm specifically looking for a blued trigger but would consider stainless.

Thanks for any input, here's two pics of the little lady for some motivation:



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Try First Stop Gun Shop in, I believe, SD 888-341-0431. Don't be surprised by who answers the phone because those gals know a lot!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I'll give them a call tomorrow.

On a slightly unrelated note, can anyone tell me what this item is, circled in red.



I saw it labeled as 'Firing Pin Lock' but my firing pin comes out when I push on the firing pin and slide the small plate (#11 in the diagram) down on the back of the slide. This also releases the extractor.

Is it supposed to be removed in order to remove the firing pin, or is it a stop to prevent forward motion of the pin exceeding it's designed travel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,508 Posts
Try "Cylinder and Slide" for the trigger. Cylinder & Slide Inc

The part in red (8) is the firing pin safety block. It is part of the Series 80 firing pin safety mechanism in all Colts that are Series 80. Although it is slightly different in this particular gun from a full size 1911. The other part (59) is the spring that keeps the block in place (pushed down) until it is lifted by part (57) allowing the firing pin to move forward and strike the primer. With the firing pin stop removed...the firing pin should not be able to be removed unless the safety block is depressed in the upward position from inside the slide. Check to make sure that it functioning properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Try "Cylinder and Slide" for the trigger. Cylinder & Slide Inc

The part in red (8) is the firing pin safety block. It is part of the Series 80 firing pin safety mechanism in all Colts that are Series 80. Although it is slightly different in this particular gun from a full size 1911. The other part (59) is the spring that keeps the block in place (pushed down) until it is lifted by part (57) allowing the firing pin to move forward and strike the primer. With the firing pin stop removed...the firing pin should not be able to be removed unless the safety block is depressed in the upward position from inside the slide. Check to make sure that it functioning properly.
Very strange, I was easily able to remove the firing pin and spring along with the extractor by simply removing #11, and I have shot the gun a few hundred rounds since with no issue.

This is of course with the slide off the frame, all I had to do was push in on the firing pin and slide #11 down, only required a push from the tip of a ballpoint pen.

I have not removed the rear sight to visually look at this piece.

Makes me slightly nervous as this is my daily driver and I am getting to the point where I'm feeling confident enough to carry it cocked and locked, but maybe not if the firing pin block isn't working as designed, which I believe is a big part to the series 80 "improvements."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,508 Posts
Check to see if part # 8 is still installed. You don't have to remove the rear sight to confirm it...just take the slide off and look up inside from underneath and you should be able to see the shiny piece...especially in a black slide. Take a pen and push on it. It should be spring loaded by part # 59. It is part # 57 that lifts this block when the gun is operating properly.

Someone might have removed it to disable the safety or perhaps it is stuck in the compressed position. Can you push on the firing pin while it is in the slide with # 11 installed and get the tip of the firing pin to come out through the breach face? If so...the safety is not functioning properly as that is what it is there to prevent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,508 Posts
OK...my sincere apologies for the bad info. I just took mine apart to verify.

First..make sure that part # 8 is still installed in the slide from looking underneath with the slide removed. With the slide removed...the block is in the deactivated position...uncompressed.... so the firing pin will come out when the stop (# 11) is removed as you stated. Push in on # 8 from underneath with the slide removed and hold it and then try to push in on the firing pin from the back of the slide and it should not move forward...indicating the safety block is working correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
OK...my sincere apologies for the bad info. I just took mine apart to verify.

First..make sure that part # 8 is still installed in the slide from looking underneath with the slide removed. With the slide removed...the block is in the deactivated position...uncompressed.... so the firing pin will come out when the stop (# 11) is removed as you stated. Push in on # 8 from underneath with the slide removed and hold it and then try to push in on the firing pin from the back of the slide and it should not move forward...indicating the safety block is working correctly.
Thanks for the clarification, I'll be stripping it down tonight to check it out. The way you describe it in the 'corrected' info sounds more like what I'm experiencing. I would hope that the internal safety is still present, as the gun came to me by way of a deceased friend of the family, and he had more guns than most, and shot this one only a few times and only carried it for what he called 'black tie affairs' in the yachting industry down here. I wouldn't see him toying with the internals, at least not in a 'remove what you don't want' sort of way.

Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Eek, sorry to be 'that guy' but I just noticed a part I know for sure isn't in my firearm. #62, which appears to be a washer that goes on the guide rod before the recoil spring. I definitely do not have that part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Is that a series 80 gun?........... I seem to recall the very first Gov 380's NOT having the series 80 FP Block.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,508 Posts
Eek, sorry to be 'that guy' but I just noticed a part I know for sure isn't in my firearm. #62, which appears to be a washer that goes on the guide rod before the recoil spring. I definitely do not have that part.
That washer is there to protect the plastic guide rod from the metal spring...look close...it hides sometimes. It will work fine without it but I would replace it if it is missing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
If I had it, it disappeared during my first take-down, as I have never seen it in the 20 times I've taken it apart since owning it... I have NOT been able to find this online during a search today, checked the normal places like brownells, cylinder & slide, etc.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top