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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Have lots of questions on a Colt MK IV series 70 I got in a trade (saved it really from an incompetent owner :bang_wall:). The finish looks to be a satin, I think a nickel finish maybe? But there is lots of spots and markings on it. Is there a way to clean those up or am I SOL in this case. I am just trying to get information on the pistol. This is my first colt gun (have couple of citadels and RIA that I used reuglarly). What can be done about the finish and some advice on what to do with the pistol. Here are some pictures of it disassembled. Also is it normal for them it to have blued grip safety, trigger, safety, and slide release? I am wondering about the barrel bushing as well if that is normal or special for this pistol? I know my RIA and Citadels don't have that style. It has wrap around grips with gold pony coin in the grips. Also like to mention this is what it looks like after a friend of mine helped me clean her up. This thing was dirty as can be and looked as if the guy shot it and then never cleaned the thing for a year or more! Lots of questions and just curious about the gun in general. Hope some of ya'll can provide me some insight into this. THANK YOU!





 

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The satin nickel finish will clean up nicely with a very light bead blast provided the nickel hasn't been compromised into the copper sub-plating or the steel base material. Keep any kind of copper solvent away from the finish (like Hoppes #9). I use CLP on mine, following te glass bead. I'm told that tooth paste applied with a tooth brush is also a good cleaner but haven't had a need to try that.I believe the blued controls are factory. The controls on mine are nickel plated, however. I think it was a matter of Colt using whatever they had laying around at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK I was wondering because this fella didn't seem to be the brightest when it came to cleaning and maintaining firearms. I think that is why he was really interested in my AK that I was trading him. I think I may know of a guy who could help me out on the bead blast then possibly. How does one tell if the "spots" go to far down into the finish?
Now when you talk about CLP you are talking about the break free stuff correct?
 

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The collet barrel bushing appears to be correct for a Series 70 Gvmt.By CLP, I meant Breakfree CLP, but I think there are other brands of clp that are just as good.From the photos, the nickel finish doesn't look too bad--except for areas on the grip where there appears to be some rust meaning the nickel has been compromised. Nothing much can be done for those areas except to remove the rust stains and keep well lubed with something like clp.The bead blasting works best to remove light scratches and scuffs in the nickel--don't see any of that kind of distress on your pistol. Just the stains and apparent rust on the lower edges of the grips. You might consider starting out with a detail strip and thorough cleaning/scrubbing of the frame. That might get you where you want to be without the bead blasting.
 

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That ole girl will clean up nicely. CLP and a toothbrush. And if the previous owner would rather have an AK (nothing against you AK fans) than that Government Model he isn't the brightest bulb in the room.....
 

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Doesn't look so bad to me either. Most of the damage is under the grips, so a good cleaning as mentioned above should leave you with a nice shooter. That collet bushing is what makes it a Series 70.
 

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That ole girl will clean up nicely. CLP and a toothbrush. And if the previous owner would rather have an AK (nothing against you AK fans) than that Government Model he isn't the brightest bulb in the room.....
L.O.L.! I've got over a dozen AKs but there's no reason to abandon a nice nickel Series 70 to buy an AK! And I've spent lot's more on rare genuine Soviet AK parts than you can imagine. I would have kept the Colt, cleaned it up, and bought the AK :D
 

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I am wondering if the stains are really rust. (They may be old lubricant that has stained the nickel.) Satin nickel seems to absorb stains and I have removed some of them with Comet on a cloth. (The bleach component seems to help.) If the stains are stubborn, a soda blast, which is far less abrasive than a bead blast, may work.

That said, since the stains seem to be mostly under the stocks, it really would not hurt to just leave them.
 

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I believe the blued controls are factory.

The controls on mine are nickel plated, however.

I think it was a matter of Colt using whatever they had laying around at the time.
The blue controls on a satin nickel series 70 Gov't was in fact a finish option.
 

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Your gun looks to be in pretty good shape. As stated previously keep it away from copper solvent as copper is applied to the steel to make the nickel stick. Any compromise in the nickle and the solvent WILL desolve the copper and there goes the finish on your gun.
I have had great sucess cleaning satin nickle with tooth paste (regular old Colgate works well) and a stiff tooth brush, it will remove the "dirt" and not harm the nickle. Then a good warm water rinse and blow it out with compressed air (canned air works well if you don't have a compressor). Then give it a good CLP "bath", clean the inners and have fun with it!
 

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Hey, how are you coming on your gun? I'm thinking about purchasing the same gun and was wondering how your progress is going. Any new pics? The one I'm looking at is pretty rough. Shop is asking $725 for it. Where you able to find any history on the gun ie. production numbers etc? Thanks.
 

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Don't attempt to take the collet bushing off the barrel. There is no need to and it risks breaking one of the fingers. It definitely helps accuracy.
 

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isimanica, if you get that gun cleaned up, DO NOT put the rubber grips back on it. Those grips were made by Pachmayr, and they have a steel insert molded inside the rubber side panel. The edges of the metal insert are exposed on the inside of the grip panel and rub against the frame every time the gun is gripped. That's what has rubbed through the nickel finish on the frame.

I had a set of Pachs rub the anodizing off a Commander frame in exactly the same way.
 

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The issue with Hoppe's #9 only arises if you soak the gun parts in the Hoppe's. The ammonia is the offending agent but takes a little time to get through the nickle and into the copper. As for toothpaste a better gun polish and abraisive is Flitz and a microfiber cloth. This will both remove the oxidized coat on the nickle and polish the nickle to its best satin appearance. Please note this is not a bright nickle piece so do not try to make it such. This finish was meant to be dull not shiney.
As for bead blasting I agree that this is a bit of an overkill. A little patience and gentle effort will be for safer and more effective.

flanman
 

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Am I the only guy that ISN'T seeing Nickle on this gun?....................

Nickle doesn't rust, and I see that gun as already being totally Bead Blasted......................By that, I mean raw, in the white, carbon steel.

I dunno,the pics may be "iffy" to my eyes, but I've built enough 1911's to recognise a raw Bead Blasted finish, when I see it...........

I think someone Bead Blasted that gun to remove the Bluing (to make it look like stainless?), or to clean up some surface rust.............They also left some smaller parts blue for a pleasing contrast?

I don't think there's any nickle on that gun...Look at the Blast pattern on the rear of the LH rail and the Ejector...........The slide was on the frame when it was blasted to protect the rails.

That gun has been blasted to remove the original finish which was most likely Blue.

All those small dark stains in the cocking serations, on the hammer, on the frame, on the MS housing are all indicative of rust on carbon steel............

Nickle just doesn't rust like that!..........The only way Nickle can rust is if the nickle is compromised or lifted so contaminates can get to the base metal........

What does the inside of the slide and receiver look like?................Any large dark areas that would indicate residual leftover bluing?

If you degrease it, hit that surface with some cold blue, I bet it will "blue" the surface.........Nickle won't take cold blue.

Tom
 

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Am I the only guy that ISN'T seeing Nickle on this gun?....................Nickle doesn't rust, and I see that gun as already being totally Bead Blasted......................By that, I mean raw, in the white, carbon steel.

I dunno,the pics may be iffy, but I've built enough 1911's to recognise a raw Bead Blasted finish, when I see it...........

I think someone Bead Blasted that gun to remove the Bluing (to make it look like stainless?), or to clean up some surface rust.............

I don't think there's any nickle on that gun...Look at the Blast pattern on the rear of the LH rail and the Ejector...........That gun has been blasted to remove the original finish which was most likely Blue.

All those small dark stains in the cocking serations, on the hammer, on the frame, on the MS housing are all indicative of rust on carbon steel............

Nickle just doesn't rust like that!..........The only way Nickle can rust is if the nickle is compromised or lifted so contaminates can get to the base metal........

What does the inside of the slide and receiver look like?................Any large dark areas that would indicate residual leftover bluing?

If you degrease it, hit that surface with some cold blue, I bet it will blue the surface.........Nickle won't take blue.

Tom
I went back and looked close and I have to agree something is not right with the finish. I would like to hear about the blue test.
 
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