Well I was doing some more searching and such..I think this Colt was likely nickeled or re nickeled post production..One example is the trigger guard screws..Two rear ones are blued,Single front one is nickeled. Hammer appears to have nickel on the sides, top and rear. Cross screws though the frame are all nickeled. Rear two backstrap screws are still blued..

Just too many oddity's for it to be a original nickel job..Oh well. I did not spend a fortune on it at least..And it is still a nice looking and functioning example..And will be a good occasional shooter for me..Better spent 600.00 on this, than on a brand new plastic fantastic Firearm,LOL

 

A Colt letter would tell you if it was originally nickeled, I think for the 1877 they cost $75. Yours as you know is a sheriffs model, I had one in 38LC and used to shoot it a bit, finally sold it when I decided I had too much 'stuff'.

 

Bgasper,

Several comments on your M1877 DA:

On the underside of an ejectorless barrel the P first appears at #3527.

On the underside of an ejectorless barrel the P/3 appears on #22774.

The gate numbers almost never match a serial number, being an assembly number that matches under the frame.

Rampant Colts on frames did not appear until 1890. This is regardless of finish type.

From your pictures, the nickel finish looks like it could be original. HOWEVER, there should be an etched “Colt D. A. 38” on the left side of barrel. With a refinish, this etching is about the first thing to go. Also if the grips were original, they wouldn't have that much wear on a gun with 95% original nickel. The same can be said of the cylinder pin knurling.

The rear of cylinder should have the last two or three numbers of the serial number. These are in groups of one and two digits, found between the chambers. I often have to use a 3x glass to see them, as sometimes they are poorly struck. That cylinder may be the part with least wear on this gun -- so check carefully for those serial numbers.

 

Thanks everybody.

I can see a 5 on the cylinder..That is about all my old eyes and a magnifying glass can make out.

I see no evidence of a etched panel..I am familiar with those though..I do believe it was once a blued Gun that was nickeled, or a original nickel that was re nickeled..I am not all that concerned..It was nickeled a long time ago..But that still makes it less desirable as a collectible I am sure..But I am a low end collector,LOL..I cannot aford the fine stuff.

I may trade it at the local Gun Show too for a better example..Who knows..

I did order a letter for it..Probably should not have now, but oh well. I will let you know what is says eventually..

 

Yes, you definitely have a renickeled revolver. The missing acid etched panel is the big clue. Also, the worn grips on a revolver that demonstrates considerable nickel finish is another clue. As was already discussed.

However, an original nickel Model 1877 revolver will have a nitre blue finish at the rear surface of the hammer, and often the screws as well. The base pin is frequently blued, too.

 

Want me to put up a pic of the inside of the frame where the Cylinder rotates? That was not re nickeled or not new bright refinish anyway..It may be a clue if it was a nickeled Revolver in the first place..The inside of that is old looking yet..Thanks alot for the help..

 

Unless some stop off lacquer was applied inside of the frame where the Cylinder rotates, it should also be nickeled. Nickle doesn't go everywhere though, like inside a bore very far.

When a gun comes out of the nickeling bath, the nickel is dull, not bright and shiny. The bright and shiny surfaces got that way after light polishing.

 

Oh

Anyone know where a guy might find any 38LC right now? I have exhausted about all options searching.I would like to shoot it atleast once anyway..Thanks

 

What the heck,here is are pics of inside the frame, and under the grips..Definitely no nickel in the bore..Just a very nice looking bore..No nickel inside the cylinders at all...

Kinda funny too,,The firing pin insert in the frame is blue, as is the firing pin..Someone at one time must have taken the time to remove these parts pryor to the nickel job..Or had some kinda release agent on those parts.., or as you said...Thanks

 

What the heck,here is are pics of inside the frame, and under the grips..Definitely no nickel in the bore..Just a very nice looking bore..No nickel inside the cylinders at all...

Kinda funny too,,The firing pin insert in the frame is blue, as is the firing pin..Someone at one time must have taken the time to remove these parts pryor to the nickel job..Or had some kinda release agent on those parts.., or as you said...Thanks

Well, you still have a decent collectible "Lightning". It was carefully renickeled after light polishing, the patent dates are still strong, and nice bore. The patent dates are another thing that tends to be weakened by a refinish job.

 

Thanks

Yes the markings throughout the Revolver are pretty sharp yet..That is the reason I initially thought it may be original nickel.. It was not ever heavily buffed that is for sure..I still like it fine..It is a good looking Revolver yet..

Now to find some ammo..Does anyone know if the older Winchester factory ammo would be safe in this? Probably from the 50s or 60s?

 

I sure don't, unless one of the "cowboy" loads companies offers this caliber (such as PMC).

 

Bore , single&double action function $600 is home run in my book .
Even if I threw away money , based on that criteria... I’d be all over it with Franklins.
I been wanting one for a while , just because. Less than six months ago I screenshot a couple from one seller on GB - for like600 , that’s plus tax , shipping AND FFL fees .
I saw AND handled one in my life , was last month in PA. at some indoor/ outdoor antique market . Thing was marked 1200 I think , no SA or DA function = POS.
I had like a g in my pocket, if it functioned I woulda made an offer- but he woulda shot me down I amagine ... all his prices were high . I been there before , forget the name - my mom says EVERYTHING ends up in Pennsylvania ! I made some gun related scores , and a killer Colt score of an old brass lock . Five years ago, I bought the one with the Colt marked brass plate. Bottom line - I think you did better than ok , based on function. And if you upgrade in time , that’s good too , Congrats !

 

I was not really looking for this one..Guy had this and a near mint Astra Constable 22 Walther PPK copy from 1974 I wanted, so I made him a package deal offer and he took it..The Constable alone is a 400.00 plus Handgun..I paid 800.00 for both...He wanted 600.00 for the Colt..300.00 for the Astra..

So hopefully you will luck into something when you least expect it.. I actually wanted the Astra more,LOL

Good Luck

 

With the early version of the nickeling process, it made the screws and small parts brittle and they snapped, so they were left blued.
Later on the process was improved.

 

And so that’s why earlier examples contain blued screws and later examples generally did not. Learn something new every day!

 

Interesting..The process never weakened the rest of the metal at all?

 

This conversion is one where they left the screws blued.

 

I don't know if the loading of 1950s-1960s .38 Colt is safe for your gun. Your gun is proofed for blackpowder. I had to buy some Starline .38 Colt brass and load my own. Cowboy loads mean two things and two things only; the bullet is lead, not jacketed or gas-checked, and the velocity fall between the parameters required for cowboy action shooting matches. The max velocity is 1000 fps for a pistol and I forget what the minimum is. It does not mean they are safe for BP firearms and most manufacturers will have warnings that they are specifically not for BP guns. Trailboss does not produce BP-like pressures. There are powders that do. Some like 5744 but before you take my word do your own research. Back when things were normal Buffalo Arms sold BP .38 Colt ammo.

38 Long Colt .358

This is obsolete caliber black powder cartridge loaded ammunition in caliber 38 Long Colt using a round nose flat point .358" 125 grain cast lead bullet. NOTE: All ammunition is shipped via FedEx or UPS Ground "Adult Signature Required" Only. So be sure you have a physical shipping address on...

www.buffaloarms.com

 

Well I received a email that a place has BP 38LC back in stock..Problem is they a 358 Bullet diameter..I think my bore is more at .365 as the early 1877s were..I asked if they happened to be a hollow base bullet that may expand into the rifling they said NO..So they are probably out of the question right?

I think early ones like mine are supposed to shoot a heeled bullet like a 22 Long Rifle has.. Thanks

 

I got bored and took some old "destined for the scrap bucket" .38 Special cases and cut them down to .38 Long length, loaded them with 2.0gr of Trail Boss and 148gr HBWC bullets. They are decent plinking loads out to about 10 yards out of my 1877 Lightening.
Honestly, it would be easier to buy the Starline brass but lockdown boredom took over. I did the same thing making .38 Shorts, too.

 

I slugged my bore..I come up with .370 grooves in my Revolver..I think .358s are a no go for sure..Maybe I can find someone who loads the correct heeled bullets..

Thanks

 

I did fire this yesterday..But all I had is 12 rounds of Buffalo arms BP loads with the .358 bullets I assume..They keyholed several times..I may invest in the right stuff to reload the correct heeled bullets..I hate to for the little I will ever shoot it..But it was fun to shoot and it is only money,LOL

I bought 100 Starline cases from a place for 19.00 plus shipping..Not too bad of a price..

I have found no one that makes the correct bullet loads for the early bores..

 

 

38 Colt Heeled bullet

38 Colt 140 gr. coated Heeled bullet for reloading

www.bearcreeksupplybullets.com

 

Thanks I ordered some correct heeled bullets from another place already..I also ordered one of the factory crimp setups from old west..I have Black powder and primers already..I have not decided on if I need dies yet..I may be able to improvise some on those..I am not real sure how much a set of 38 Long Colt dies will really do me..I can make a seater and improvise on a neck expander..

Just looking for the cheapest option I can do to get to some shootable loaded rounds..Any input on what I have in mind so far appreciated..

 

Well I am up to around 200.00 in stuff to shoot this with the correct bullets.LOL

Oh well, all I bought except the bullets is reusable..

 

Oh well, all I bought except the bullets is reusable..

Where did you find the reusable primers and powder??? Those things are really hard to come by!

(Sorry...the smarta$$ gene kicked in 😁 )

 

LOL

Well Black Powder I have a lifetime supply of that, I have several Cannons I use it for..Have more Primers than I will ever use too, nothing I had to buy as far as those two components for this project..I have alot of smokeless powders too..But these will be BP loads only....Will let you know how it goes..Thanks

 

Well I loaded up 12 rounds..Fired off six..No keyholing, pretty accurate for a old blind guy..But two rounds I shot in Double Action pulled about 8 inches right..I will stick to Single Action..LOL

The Old West setup for crimping the heeled bullets is a nice product..Worked very well..For those that with Real Black..Do you ever put a lubed wad over the powder? I have some here that use in my old .36 Civil War Manhattan Revolver..

Also I need to come up with a good outside lube for the bullets..Any ideas on that? I just smeared a littler light coat of some BP bullet lube I had on hand for today..

I will just be using my Lee Handpress for these..I like those anyway..I use it for most obsolete old Cartridges I do not mass produce..LOL

Thanks and a pic of 6 unfired rounds..

 

I haven't used an over-powder wad in mine but I was I was also just seeing if I could make it work. It might not be a bad idea but I'll wait on the experts.
As for lube, I have been using Alox tumble lube. It seems to work OK with the few I have tried so far.

I also highly recommend the Old West Crimping die!!