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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have a Mustang that is doing something unexpected. I thought I had the safety on and was cleaning the pistol. To my horror the trigger dropped the hammer. There was no ammunition involved so no boom, but I got looking into what exactly happened. It turns out that the safety can "click" to where you think it is on but is is really kind of like a half cock. Someone unfamiliar with the arm may think the safety is on but it really is only half way there. Pushing it again will set it to where it is doing what is supposed to. Im wondering if this is a known issue or should the pistol be looked at by a smith. It is not just sticking, there is a definite click but is not on safety. It's a series 80. also, with this model the slide will still function with safety on.


Thanks,

Steve.
 

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My Series 80 Government Pocketlite has the same 2-click behavior with the hammer back, but I'm about to install a Cylinder & Slide extended shelf thumb safety. Once I get it on I'll follow-up with a post to advise whether this continues with the new safety or not. Note this does NOT happen with the hammer down (of course), since the safety doesn't actually block the hammer in that situation. I'm hoping the extended shelf gives my thumb enough leverage to make engaging the safety with hammer back smoother and more positive. We shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jr,

Thanks for the reply. Hopefully you find a simple solution. I have checked Colt's web site and did not see a place to ask the question regarding the thumb safety. I am waiting to hear back from a general E-mail to them. We'll see how it goes. If I hear anything, I'll pass it along.
 

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UPDATE: I installed the C&S extended shelf safety last night, and it did make the engagement more positive. The "two-stage" click the stock safety had is gone, but the new safety clearly needs some tuning because its pretty difficult to engage with the hammer back. I sat and worked it several hundred times last night while watching a movie, and its getting better. If it doesn't resolve itself I think I'll have to take it to a gunsmith to touch up just the right spots where it engages the hooks on the hammer.
Note that when the safety on these models blocks the hammer, it has to move the hammer to the rear ever so slightly a bit. When it does, you get more resistance than normal. Try this exercise: 1) With the hammer fully forward, engage the safety. You should get one positive click, and the resistance should be minimal - only that provided by the safety plunger working on the back side of the safety to move from one indentation to the other. 2) With the hammer fully to the rear, the safety actually has to move the hammer further against the force of the mainspring to block the hammer hooks so the sear cannot release the hammer to fly forward and strike the firing pin. With the hammer back, its the mainspring you're pushing against, so the safety/hammer engagement surfaces are pretty important to get right for a smooth engagement.

By the way - keep the grips on. If you try this with grips off, you'll soon be on your knees with a light or magnet looking for the safety plunger. Don't ask me how I know this... I now have a spare.

2nd UPDATE: A few more hundred dry-engagements later, the new safety is engaging more and more like it should. Its still not possible every time to engage it by pushing up with the top of right thumb on the lower surface of the safety like you expect to on a 1911, but its definitely easier and completely serviceable now. There is definite resistance as it pushed the hammer down against the mainspring, but I think it will wear itself in.
 
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