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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, my python was caught in the rain, and is getting some surface rust!!!!!!How do I remove the rust with out harming the blued finish?
 

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Buy some Kroil or CLP Breakfree and liberally coat the metal.
This will soften the rust.
Kroil is a super-penetrating fluid that works very well, and CLP Breakfree is a top rust proofing lubricant that also penetrates. You can buy these at most good gun stores, and CLP is usually sold at Wal-mart in aerosol cans.

Allow to soak overnight.
Make up a knife or chisel edged scraper from brass shim stock or scrap brass, and buy a brass "toothbrush".
(NOTE: Do NOT use a "copper" penny as a scraper. These are no longer copper and can damage the bluing).

After allowing the gun to soak overnight, apply more lube and use the brass scraper to scrape off the crusty rust.
Then apply more lube and use the brass brush to give the rusty areas a scrubbing.

This will remove and "kill" the rust without damaging the surrounding blue like using steel wool will.

After the rust is removed, wipe the metal dry and apply a thin coat of CLP Breakfree. This will protect the metal from further rust, and will continue to "work" on any remaining rust.
If after wiping dry there's brass marks on the metal from the scraper and brush, use ordinary bore solvent to remove it, then wipe dry and apply the CLP.

While this will stop the rust, remove the crusty spots, and prevent further rust, there will be tiny pits and missing blue where the rust was.
The only way to "fix" this is to have the gun completely re-blued.
If you decide to have it refinished, I strongly recommend having it done by Colt, who can refinish it to like-new condition.
 

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Dfariswheel beat me to it but describes the best method I know of. I'd not heard of using a scraper and always use a brass brush with Kroil on any relic grade acquisitions.

For best results with least obvious damage heed his suggestion to allow to soak overnight.

No steel wool or steel brushes, brass only.

US cents minted prior to 1982 are copper if anyone cares.

Don't expect the surface to remain pristine after the rust is gone. It will show rust stains. Refinishing is the only way to erase the damage.

How'd the Python come to be rained on?
 

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+1 for EEZOX.

Was recommended by a friend who owns a gun store and have been using it for years. Never had a problem with EEZOX. Excellent stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the help. The python was left in it's case in my trunk. Someone drove my car and opened the trunk in the rain, and I didn't know about it. Your suggestions definitely worked. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah, you can only tell in one spot or so on the cylinder. It sat there for a week so the rust wasn't really bad, but was enough for me to freak out.
 

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Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner

There's a product called "Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner, Rust and Dirt Remover". A former gun shop owner recommended it to me while I was cleaning up my uncles old Winchester 97. It worked wonders for me both surface and in the bore. The claim is that it "will not harm the finest blued surface". It looks like the old steel dish scrubbing pad. As I said, it worked great for me. I used it in conjunction with a good soaking of Breakfree CLP, which is great stuff.

Steelsmith

www.BIG45METALCLEANER.com
 

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Good info here. Wish I would have sought out this Forum months ago!

One of our local forum guys said, "Why don't you check out a Colt forum, if there is one?"
Well now I know there is one.
Thanks y'all!
 

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US cents minted prior to 1982 are copper if anyone cares.

QUOTE]

I thought it was '81 when they started with zinc? Either way to make sure you can file into the penny and see it it's sliver inside or copper.
As I'm remembering it, it was during 1982 that the cents began to be copper plated zinc. One could have 1982 cents that are copper or zinc.
 

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If this is any help to you: I had a family member who worked for "Colt's" in the early part the 1920s till the late 1950s. The final "finish oil" used was a special "clock oil" or true refined whale oil. I still have a small vintage glass btl. of this made expressly for Colt in it's day. 1 drop was all that was needed, but not put on any wood or plastics. I still use it but only on my finest pieces. Never gets 'gummy', never takes away any of the case coloring
 
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