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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's my new Colt 1917 I picked up this month. It's got all the right stamps in the right places and shoots real nice. The yellow hue is from my incandescent light above it. I'm pleased with is and it seems to be quite a handfull of revolver.
 

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Nice purchase and it looks like it is in great shape. Do you plan to shoot it? If so, go easy on the Old Gal as the steel is almost 88 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks and yes I have shot it already. I'm going to reload some cast loads for it. I have a friend who gave me dies and is lending me the 6 cavity mold. My neighbor has the lubricating sizer so I'm all set. It shoots nicely.
 

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What weight cast bullets do you plan to shoot in it? I have had good luck with everything from 225-255 with cast lead bullets in my 1917s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Don't know yet. I haven't seen the mold but I think they are 230 gr. Can't look a gift horse in the mouth though.
 

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The 230 grain cast lead bullets should work just fine. Keep them to about .45 ACP Ball velocities and your Colt 1917 should go for "many more miles." Let us know how she ends up shooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No I don't. Number in crane is 2624XX and Govt. number on butt is 1124XX. I'm sure you guys could tell though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
JT, Thanks for dating it. I thought that was the year.
Virginian, I have some .45ACP so I'll try that. I tried some factory ball ammo and it shot nice groups but a little left and high. Maybe bad technique.

This would be a perfect example of how I like old guns to look (old) but some cretin put some light peening marks on the right side by the pin to ruin it a little. They're hard to see but there anyway.
 

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reddogge:
Do you know when the M1917 was made?
I use 200 grain cast bullets I buy at the local gun shop for about $17 for 500. They work well with WW231 powder.
JT


[This message has been edited by jacobtowne (edited 03-23-2005).]
 

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Congrats! Very nice HUGE piece ... Being a lifelong, third generation Colt fan, I've always admired the new service guns but shyed away from them as I thought they'd just be too large for me to control. Not so. I've fired a few and had no trouble at all. It IS noticeably larger than the Official Police frame, though, ain't it!?
 

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It most certainly is larger. When I place the M1917 next to my Army Special the difference is quite noticeable. The M1917 has a DA trigger pull from hell, but I shoot it SA, and the size and weight make it a very comfortable gun to shoot.
That said, the New Service would be very difficult for someone with a small hand.
JT
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That big pin or screw end right smack dab in the middle of the right frame near the upper end of the grip. It has tiny peen marks all around it but not on it. The gun was so dirty and the shop is so dark when I bought it I didn't notice them before. Probably wouldn't have stopped me from buying it though.
 

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I have often wondered how many doughboys or GIs that had either the S&W or Colt 1917 ever used them as clubs when they ran out of ammo? I would hate to know what it felt like to get hit with that much metal weilded by a soldier in combat.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by reddogge:
JT, Thanks for dating it. I thought that was the year.
Virginian, I have some .45ACP so I'll try that. I tried some factory ball ammo and it shot nice groups but a little left and high. Maybe bad technique.

This would be a perfect example of how I like old guns to look (old) but some cretin put some light peening marks on the right side by the pin to ruin it a little. They're hard to see but there anyway.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Which pin are you refering to on the Colt 1917? Sometimes when guns were turned in for service, the armorers were not concerned with beauty, but rather function and would peen, file and stake parts on the gun so they would work.
 

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You might be able to clean it up with some 800 grit sand paper sticks that can be found at the hobby store or replace it. Gun Parts Corp. may have it.
 

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My "guess" is that somesone restaked the big pin that holds the hammer. If they get loose,and hammer's axis can move,all hell breaks loose with timing and function. Correct way is to do work Inside the frame!! Oh well! Bud
 
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