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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I acquired this Colt 22 New Frontier that is terrific shape. Barrel and cylinder bluing is perfect. Case hardening perfect. Not a scratch- not a flaw. Not a turn line. Mint. Really hard to find examples this clean, which is why this stands out...the inside curve of the grip frame has flakes of the finish off. Doesn't not appear to be rust, and is not showing scratches. With the rest of the gun being 100% , I'm thinking about getting this fixed.. Opinions and how to's -suggestions welcome.
 

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That right there is the reason I take my rings off when handling any firearm, be it mine or someone else's. How about some rubber wrap arounds to cover them up ;^) Just kidding. I have actually been pondering a 22LR and I would tickled pink to have a gun as you describe, with the dings. Me, I would just keep an eye on them and keep it well oiled.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm sure the refinishing process of the alloy peacemaker/New Frontier22 grip frame has been discussed in the past. I am somewhat lacking skills with the Forums search engine. As Judge mentioned, I can see that the frame has a coating on the metal instead of the bluing process as the ferrous parts do. I'm betting that Buckspen and others know exactly how the grip frames finish process is factory done and whether it can be duplicated or better to just leave as is like Judge suggested. I did see that the grip frame showed available on a parts website, Numrich. Assumed it probably did not come with the finish on it though.
 

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The grip frames on New Frontier .22 revolvers are made of aluminum and are anozided blue or black. I have no idea how this could be repaired or who could refinish it. I have replaced several badly damaged grip frames on Colt .22 sa revolvers, but this is not quite as easy as it sounds. The color of the aluminum grip frames that are generally available (eBay, GunBroker, GunParts Co.) generally don't match the color of the revolver. The ones I have seen are much lighter in color than the ones on the guns. Now and then, you may find one for sale that is correct, but usually they have more scratches than the one you are trying to replace.
Another problem is that some grip frames that are being offered for sale are slightly bent or otherwise not the standard shape. I don't know why this is true but it is and they don't fit correctly on a revolver. I've run into this several times. These may be reproductions or factory rejects. I just don't know.
In my opinion, JudgeColt gave the best advice. Leave it alone. That's what I would do.

- - - Buckspen
 

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Birchwood Casey sells a product called "Aluminum Black" that is similar to cold blue but is for aluminum. It won't match the color exactly, but it will hide the bare aluminum color somewhat. You can also use a black "Marks a Lot" marker to color the spots.
 

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I've tried the Birchwood Casey product and the Marks-a-lot thing on the grip frames on Frontier Scouts and they didn't work. Either color isn't right or they rub right off.

- - - -Buckspen
 

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Brownells' Aluma-hyde is a better option than a touch up pen if you have significant damage to hide.

ALUMA-HYDE庐 II | Brownells

Another option is to strip the anodizing and polish the alumimum to a nickel like shine (I have done this with Rugers and it is attractive on a blued gun).

You could try to locate another grip frame, or buy a cheaper Scout or similar, steal the gripframe, and resell the donor gun.

Or, as above, get it re-anodized.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
A small expense on a used grip frame that appears in 99.999 condition to me, and a little very careful work, some expert tips from the the experts, and I have my L frame New Frontier looking spiffy. I feel like the investment was worthwhile because I'm sure it helped the overall value, and most of all, I'm very happy with the results. I might try to refinish the old grip frame now that I have one to play with, in case it comes out looking like.. well.. I refinished it myself. :)
Btw..can't tell it but my ring is off holding the gun for the photo too, avoiding the ring scratches that I was fixing in the first place.



 

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The two best options are to have the grip frame re-anodized or apply a "paint" type coating that will look like the original anodized finish.

Of the paint's the best are the epoxy based types that are pretty tough, and when applied properly, fairly durable.
The recommended types are Lauer Duracoat, which comes in about any color you could want, and Brownell's Aluma-Hyde.

The best Duracoat is a two part epoxy mix that's applied with an airbrush and is allowed to air cure. Usable cure is a week or so, full hardness is within 3 weeks. Duracoat has an excellent reputation.

Manufacturer of DuraCoat Firearm Finishes:

Brownell's Aluma-Hyde comes in an oven bake or air cure type and comes in spray cans or in liquid.

Paint Finishes | Metal Prep & Coloring at Brownells

To get the original anodizing, Ford's and Techplate do quality work on guns.

Ford's site is down right now:

http://www.fordsguns.com

Techplate offer several types of anodizing, including hard coat:

Welcome to the TechPlate, Inc. Military Plating Specifications Index
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info regarding finish options. The Aluma-Hyde might be the easiest for a first time novice like myself, although results might not be as factory. I don't know yet. If you need your CT scanner fixed, I have two good hands...if you need it painted.. or a grip frame painted, I might be all thumbs. Tools I have. The place to do it, not so much. I might call those vendors mentioned above to get price. My first plan was to use the old grip frame to go on my shooter New Frontier that has some good authentic holster wear. It has a lot of bluing muzzle wear and case hardening wear too, so I think it should continue to age gracefully with use and figure out which route to refinish this current spare.
 

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WWYS, I have a small collection of these Colt .22 NFs but on this particular gun I think Buckspen has as much knowledge as anyone here. Dfariswheels knowledge of gunsmithing and a broad range of firearms is unquestioned so, I guess I have a question for them and to bring out info to you at the same time.According to Don Wilkersons book," Scouts ,Peacemakers and New Frontiers in .22 Caliber" he states in several places, that the grip frames are,"finished with an epoxy blue".[this for the "G" Series guns] and,"Grip frames were generally a bright epoxy blue on revolvers with case hardened frames and a parkerized finish on full blue revolvers",this on the GS Series guns with crossbolt safeties]. I have one case hardened GS and several G Series guns,both NF , Frontier Scouts and one Peacemaker. All appear to have "painted" grip frames.Now, I don't think they are "anodized" as in Commanders and Ruger SAs but I'm no expert. I bought 2 grip frames several years ago from Numrich and modified one into a "birdshead". With the application of heating torch the finish seemed to me to burn unlike anodizing so who knows. I'm hoping Buckspen can provide better info and educate me. Meanwhile, I used an automotive epoxy paint on the grip I modified and it worked fine but, now a days I would follow dfaris' advice and go with Lauer Duracoat because of the durability and great range of colors. BTW: I'd leave yours alone and just enjoy it.Best Regards, Nick
 

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Nick is correct. I guess I have to eat my words. In Don Wilkerson's book "Colt Scouts, Peacemakers and New Frontiers in .22 Caliber" the author states at least three different times that the finish on the grip frames of Peacemaker .22 and New Frontier .22 revolvers is "epoxy blue". No mention of anodizing is made.
My apologies.

- - - -Buckspen
 
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