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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My NF has a heavy, stiff trigger and I would like to smooth it up and lighten it somewhat. Can anyone tell me in plain language how to go about doing this without sending it to a gunsmith. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has worked on their personal gun and what's involved.

Thanks for any help and guidance.
 

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I hesitate to give specific instructions on doing trigger work, due to the unknown skills of the person asking.
Trigger work is NO job for someone without the skills and tools to do it.

With that said, here's some things you can do to help:

The easiest "fix" is to order a single action light-weight spring pack direct from Wolff or from Brownell's:
http://www.gunsprings.com/1ndex.html
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/P...+ACTION+SPRINGS

If you'd rather use the original parts:
Get a piece of leather or polyethylene plastic about 1/8" to 3/16" thick.
Disassemble the back strap, and remove the large screw that secures the lower end of the hammer spring.

Cut the leather or plastic into a pad that will fit inside the trigger guard where the spring seats, and drill a hole in the pad that will pass the hammer spring screw.

Put the pad on the trigger guard, and reassemble the hammer spring and screw with the pad sandwiched between the trigger guard and the spring.

This will slightly change the angle of the hammer spring and will allow it to flex differently.
This will lighten the trigger pull, but will not risk ruining parts like attempting to work on hammer and trigger bearing surfaces.

After installing a spring kit or a hammer spring pad, carefully test the gun to insure the hammer won't "push off" by cocking it and pressing firmly, but NOT hard on the rear of the hammer spur.
The hammer MUST stay cocked. If it drops, remove the new springs or pad and see a gunsmith who can do actual action and trigger work.
 

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Brownell's sells spacers for the mainspring and they usually work great. I say usually because some guns (like a USFA) that are held to very tight tolerances don't like them because they change the mainspring geometry somewhat. That being said, the old 'spacer under the hammer' trick has been around for years and will probably work well for you. These spacers won't hold moisture like leather does.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/P...R+SPRING+SPACER

Also, Brownell's sells a set of stones to polish the slot in the frame that the hand rides in. Basically they reduce friction for the hand and smooth the action. Could help with your situation. I haven't personally used these, but John Taffin says they are worth it.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/P...LOT+STONING+KIT

Whatever you do, don't go messing with the hammer notches or trigger sear. Lots of trouble there for you to get into...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys,

Ya'll have been a big help. I installed a Wolff main spring and that seems to have done the trick. It's hard to imagine the difference it made in smoothness and let off. I'm going to do the same with my other two NF's.

The net result is...groups were reduced by more than half and if I do my part, I can consistently get 2" clusters at 20-25 yards from my standard "wrists only" hold on sandbags.

Appreciate the help.
 
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