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Nickel Python cleaning

5K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  mafd2 
#1 · (Edited)
Just picked up a 1964 Python with nickel finish. I’ve used flitz polish on some of my stainless revolvers, but curious what would be the best for the nickel without hurting the nickel. Thanks for the help.
 

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#2 ·
Do not use any cleaner with ammonia in it. If you do use it make sure you completely remove the cleaner...if there's any nicks or scratches in the nickel the ammonia can get under it and cause the nickel to lift off.
 
#4 ·
I've used Flitz before, but it's not an every cleaning thing. I'll use it once...lightly...and done by hand, to get it clean. After that I use Renaissance Wax to keep it clean. Again, put it on, take it off by hand. I simply put it on using a fingertip, then buff it off with a clean cloth.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I might first try a cotton rag with a tiny bit of Mothers Mag polish, but I would not use much, and not buff with much pressure. Nickle responds well to Mothers. But I don't know how thick the nickle is on Colts, so I usually only polish things I do know, like Leica cameras and Coleman lanterns that are nickle. Like said above, don't make it a habit, just do it one time to get the fog off.
 
#6 ·
I purchased my 2nd Python in 1975 and it was a 4 inch Nickel like yours. I started cleaning it and each time developed more microfine scratches over all the surfaces. No matter what I tried the microfine scratches only increased. It drove me nuts. I ended up selling it and never purchased another nickel Python. I’d use a soft cloth on yours only...IMHO.
 
#8 ·
Unless the finish looks really bad, the best option is to just wipe it down with a soft cloth to remove any surface fouling or dirt.
If the fouling or dirt is heavy you can use a kitchen cleaner for the dirt by soaking a cloth and wiping gently.
For actual fouling caused by firing use a nickel-safe bore cleaner and don't allow it to soak on the surface.

To "remove" tiny scratches or blemishes you have to actually remove layers of the nickel.
Every time you use a metal polish of any sort you're removing some of the finish.
Use too coarse a polish, use a polish too hard, or use a polish too often and you can literally polish right through the nickel plating.

One time you can use a metal polish is to attempt to improve a cloudy spot. Exactly what causes these I don't know for sure.
 
#9 ·
That thing looks as if it needs absolutely nothing.
Sometimes we try to fix things that aren't broke.
There is no such thing as perfection, and the odds of making continuous improvement on such a thing is a finite hope at best.
Once you pass the point of no return, what you have is a bubbafied revolver. Happens all the time. How often do we see the result of obsessive compulsive 'cleaning', especially on nickel?
You can use a silicone gun & reel cloth on it, or you can give it a light wipe with some good gun oil, and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth.
Relax and just do simple ordinary maintenance and that thing will be around for several lifetimes, if not forever.
That thing is a really attractive gun.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Just comparing nickel finish and wear over the years between Colt and S&W. S &W had a much thicker plating then Colt. As others point out if you do aggressive cleaning you will hit the copper color glow underneath the nickel. The first time I saw this was on a nickel 1911 where the idiot scratch broke thru the nickel and showed the copper color. Also becomes visible on the cylinder face where you get excessive lead buildup and a desire to clean it off. As for the OP Python,I can’t tell from the pic but isn’t the rear site supposed to be nickel? Grips correct? Pete
 
#13 ·
I have used a Jeweler's Cloth on my Nickel SAA'a with good results.....
 
#14 ·
Be gentle.
Determine how bad the bad spots are.
No ammonia ever. (Hoppes 9 has ammonia)
Flitz is good. Once buffed off use wax as lube on soft, soft cotton t-shirt or the same. Wax is just lube to reduce friction for smoother polishing in this application.
I've used Diamond paste. 10 micron and smaller makes fast work to bright polish. I think .5 micron is like 100,000 grit (1500 grit is considered mirror polish sand paper). Someone please correct me if I'm off. I just rub it on with my finger. The 'wood polishing' kits have 12,000 grit rubberized polish pads that work well too. Keep them soaking wet with oil or soapy water.
I always try to disassemble a firearm for polishing so there are no lines around obstructions.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
#16 · (Edited)
Clouding on nickel is just tarnish like on brass, silver, aluminum gold etc. Mothers is good, Wenol, Never Dull, Simichrome are also and I've used Flitz before with no problems. I use White Diamond metal polish and find it to be the best of all. I use it on all my nickel guns and my motorcycles as well. Use it with a soft quality microfiber cloth. Removes tarnish and imperfections and leaves a beautiful mirror bright shine and protective coating without scratching. Contains no ammonia or acid. Here's my nickel guns with White Diamond less a few I haven't gotten around to photographing yet.
Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Starting pistol
Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Starting pistol
Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Starting pistol
Firearm Gun Trigger Revolver Starting pistol
Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Starting pistol
Gun Firearm Trigger Revolver Starting pistol
Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Starting pistol
Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Gun accessory
 
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