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I’m no expert on SAAs but I am always leary of nickel finish. Once it starts to go it can get ugly very fast. Case colors or blue can fade but that just adds an aged sort of dignity.

Skirmisher
 

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I bought this 7.5” back n February,for two reasons,1) it was available here to me locally in CA. 2) it has great CC but it’s going on waivers lol 😂 as soon as I can recoup my money,if it was 4-3/4” or 5.5” I would keep,it. I just don’t care for the longer barrel,it’s from 2015 and basically NIB( has removable bushing). Pete

View attachment 707941


HUH? That's too beautiful to let go!
 

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That sure would do it for me too. I have a nickel 2nd gen that has honest holster wear on it and you can see the copper under the nickel along the barrel ( doesn't bother me at all as it tells the story of this old work horse) but if it were flaking I would be Pi$$ed.
I had the cylinder re-plated and could not bring myself to shoot it again so I sold it and bought the one pictured in my earlier post.
 

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Hard to ignore a blue and case gun. But a nickel gun with a set of nice grips is a eye catcher as well.

For a long time I only had one and it was blue and case. When I could afford two the 2nd one was nickel.

708390


Several options on the nickel as well. Below, two versions of antique nickel and two versions of Colt's bright nickel Bottom gun is silver plate.


Nothing wrong with Turnbull's carbona blue and case colors. Colts' can be hit or miss. This one is from Colt but done by Turnbull in 1999.

 

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I just got back my 2nd gen 45acp cylinder. It was blue now it's nickel. I had Mahovsky's Metalife do it. I am happy with it so far, but I haven't shot it yet. I took a couple of pics to show the nice shiny finish. Just what I wanted. It is much brighter than the old worn finish on the 1st gen or 2nd gen in the pic. It looks like the new 3rd gen.
708394

708395
 

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All things being equal is a 3rd gen SAA more desirable in nickel or case hardened?
Personally, I would opt for case hardening. Nickel plating covers a multitude of sins.
 

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Personally, I would opt for case hardening. Nickel plating covers a multitude of sins.
I like both finishes. Worth noting good nickel plate metal prep requires about three times the effort as blue and case colors. You'll see every flaw in the metal prep on a nickel gun. Easy to hide all sorts of pits/holes and uneven metal work/prep in blue and case. Even easier to hide things in modern hot blueing compared to carbona blueing.
 

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I like both finishes. Worth noting good nickel plate metal prep requires about three times the effort as blue and case colors. You'll see every flaw in the metal prep on a nickel gun. Easy to hide all sorts of pits/holes and uneven metal work/prep in blue and case. Even easier to hide things in modern hot blueing compared to carbona blueing.
First, let me say, I agree that we disagree.

When I had my first MRI, the following week, it looked as if I wallowed in a fire ant mound, all the pustules from the ferrous materials embedded in my arms and torso from metal prep for hot bluing and parkerizing. I worked shirtless, 100 + degrees outside, another 20 degrees plus in the shop. Salt pills and spring water, the drink of the day.

As I stated earlier in this thread, Manufacturers love nickel finishes, because they cover a multitude of sins. And do not require as much prep time as firearms to be blued or parkerized.
 

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Guess we can disagree then. Having done the metal prep on many a blued, nickel and stainless handguns guns myself. I want to hind something simply blue it. Better yet bead blast it and blue it. Mask it totally? Parkerize it. You want to see your metal prep efforts? Leave it in the white or cut stainless.

Nickel.

708881
 

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Looks as though the trigger guard got caught in the buffing wheel and went sailing? Where did the nick in the hammer come from? Is it possibly an inclusion pit or evidence of a crack? Is there a before photo?

In the Swamplands, you don't leave anything bright. Because it will be brown in no time.
 
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