In DA the bolt stop inters the cyl, and everything works fine, when i pull the hammer in single action, the bolt does not come up and inter the cyl notch, i am comparing this Revolver to my 41 long colt Army Special, which works just fine, do both of these Revolvers have the same lockwork?. when i cock the Police Positive in single action, the cyl is lined up, while cocked, i can grip the cyl, and move it back and forth, more than i think is normal, is it possible the pawl, on the bottom notch is a hair short, it appears when cocked, if i rotate the cyl to the right, it lines up a hair better, George.
Essentially yes. The bolt timing in both revolvers should be essentially as described in the referenced post. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
A great reference manual covering both your revolvers is "The Colt Double Action Revolvers: A Shop Manual, Vol. I" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It is available from Brownell's, Midway and other book sellers. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
If the bolt actually does not "come up" (drop) in SA as you state at first, then indeed you may have a bolt / rebound lever problem. But then you say it drops but the cylinder "wiggles" more than your other revolver. That could be a worn bolt or bolt screw. But again, it will not be locked up when just cocked in SA vs when the trigger is pulled. Perhaps a little clarification and hopefiully some comments from other members. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
[ QUOTE ]
I have Jerrys books for S&W, but not Colt, i dont understand why the bolt will engage in DA and not in single action, thanks George.
[/ QUOTE ]
The rebound lever which controls the bolt is operated by the cam on the hand which is directly operated by the trigger. In SA, the trigger is operated by the hammer and it may not move the rebound lever to the point of bolt drop before the trigger engages the cocking notch. My analysis, not necessarily correct /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I guess I could stick my neck out further and say that might be the result of a worn sear extension or hammer toe? Where is dfariswheel when you need him? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Ok Guys, if i cock the Revolver in single action, the bolt does not drop, if i pull back on the Hammer a little after i cock it, and gently touch the trigger, the bolt drops, and lockup is good, George.
Perform the check in the referenced post, paying particular attention to whether the bolt starts to retract IMMEDIATELY when beginning to cock the hammer. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
And regardless of what you find, your choices are:
a) Make sure the bolt is free of crud and debris and lubed
b) Get Jerry's book for your revolvers and take your chances
c) Send the revolver to Colt or a qualified repair facility like Pittsburg Handgun Headquarters for proper repair. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
The Bolt retracts right away, as it should, this Revolver has set in a garage for quite a few yrs, it may be gummed up, i will clean everything good, i am ordering Jerrys book Vol 1, thanks for all the help, George.
Didn't mean to be smart a$$, but few will recommend that you attempt to repair or adjust Colt DA actions. However, based on your experience, confidence and interest, obviously no one can tell you not to (I have a "project" gun to play with). I know you will find Jerry's book on the Colts very interesting and beneficial regardless of what the final approach is. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
i belive he is describing a short hand,open the cyl and s/a cock the gun.now watch the hand closely,when you pull the trigger the hand moves a small amount PAST lock. this slight movement is designed to remove the small amount of play required for parts clearence. this is the key to the solid "colt lockup". however if the gun is slow in time this last little movement will also put the gun in lock at the last instant.for this reason you cannot check cylinder timing in d/a mode.am i making sense??
Yes, that makes sense, i found some rust inside the lockwork, it has drawen moisture sitting in that garage for several yrs, i think with a good cleaning, it will work properly, i want to thank everyone for there help, i have worked on a few Smiths, and SA Revolvers, Colts are a differant matter however, i really enjoy shooting my 41 long colt Army Special, i have settled on HB bullets and Bullseye, i think the Bullseye opens the HB quicker than Unique, accuracy seems much better with Bullseye, you Guys have a nice day, George.
George; on your .41 Colt. I have an Army SApeciall and an SAA in that caliber. I find that either Red Dot or 700-x,WITH MAGNUM primers opens the "HB" better" and I get great accuracy and velocity vs. Bullseye(higher pressures) or Unique! Been playing with this caliber for a dozen years or so,even before its "semi resurrection" in SASS.
Have used the heel bullets(bitch to get a good consistent crimp on), a stache of factory Remington swaged HBs,and now settle on some well casted HB's.
Hopefully, a good cleaning and light lube will "fix" your P.Positive,as the fact that it "works ok" in DA mode,leads me to think there is some "fossilized crud" in its innards. Just a couple of "specks" in a key place,can slow or tie up a revolver. This is something that even a revolver lover like me will admit(that many won't!) versus a semi auto,like the 1911 family! Now a Luger,that's different,as a "speck" of Bratwurst in it's innards is verboten!
Thanks for the Information Bud, i will try those Powders, i have dies brass and bullets for the 41, now if i could just find a .386 HB Mould, my Army Special dont have much Blue left, but it is great shape otherwise, timing and lockup are superb, George.