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Discussion Starter #1
The affliction has returned, and again, without warning. I now find myself selling other guns to finance what a week ago I hadn't even considered for at least a year or two. I think I'm going to go through with it this time, but I could probably use some advice...

I'm looking for a 4" nickel Python and I've found 2 at a shop I frequent, but I'm not sure what to look for, like, how tight should the cylinder lock up on a Python? Is there much difference between generations? Anything else I should know or look for?

Oh, and damn! These things are expensive!
 

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The cylinder should lock up TIGHT. Zero movement.
As far as what to look for.... Everything you would normally check on a revolver. Timing, signs of being refinished etc etc..
Plus, a common thing is changing of the grips/stocks.
If you have the wrong stocks on a Python, it could cost you hundreds of dollars for the right ones these days. That is if you are trying to make it factory correct. If it's just a shooter, you may just be looking for comfort.
If the Pythons are boxed, you should be looking for FACTORY correct boxes. These and the paperwork contained with-in have been reproduced. Learn what era boxes and paperwork go with the guns you're looking at purchasing.
If you in fact are paying for a NIB Python, you better at least be getting the CORRECT, Grips, Box, Manual and paperwork.
Not some Taiwan after market crap.
There's a LOT to know, before puttin' out the dough.

Good luck, Jeff (GUNKWAZY)
 

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If you're looking for a support group to stop purchasing Pythons, or any Colt...this ain't the place :p The kind members here have cost me thousands and I've got a meager collection compared to many :eek:
 

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If you're putting out big bucks for a python I'd suggest you get a blade type feeler gauge set and check the cylinder endshake. It should be no more than .003" To check it you push the cylinder forward and gauge it, then push the cylinder rearward and again gauge it. Subtract the forward measurement from the rearward and that's your endshake. Also, the cylinder bolt on a python should begin to retract immediately as you cock the hammer or start pulling the trigger in DA mode. The bolt should then drop somewhere near the middle of the cylinder notch ramp. Gunkwazy is absolutely right, there is a lot of things to know about if you're going to do a thorough checkout.
Good luck, as far as I know there is no known cure for python fever.
 

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As one who has the fever also, As stated above "Period CORRECT, Grips, Box, Manual and paperwork" plus side plate screw.. :-(
 

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I got that fever last winter and bought one that ended up needing a trip to Colt for a tuneup. With any luck, it should be healed around the first of May. Can't wait to pop some caps.
 

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I have the fever, as all above have said, sage advice. But hell they dont make em anymore so grab a good one when the apportunity arises. You have much more choice in the States than we do in Australia. Though I did pick-up a beaut 1973 4inch Python last year and it shoots like a dream. Need another one to go with it 4 inch 6 inch nickel, blue, stainless decisions decisions!!!
 

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I just got bit recently and have started my search. Great tips by pythonnut. Is there an area of the forum that has a collection of these helpful hints?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Fever reached terminal levels, so I had to purchase the antidote - a 4" nickel Python in .357 Magnum.

I probably should have waited, but from what I've seen, these things aren't getting any cheaper or easier to find. So...

First question: Upon removing the grips, I found a Florida Highway Patrol stamp on the bottom. Is this good or bad?
Second question: What Date of Manufacture would serial number T29XXX put it?

Let the fun begin.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks! That's what I came up with, also. Now if anyone knows what a FHP stamp means to the value of a gun, please let me know.

Python Side.jpg
 

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My guess is the Florida Highway Partol. They did use pythons, and I believe they were sold to the public.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I thought I had purchased a nickel gun, but it turns out to be bright stainless - even better! I've read many different things about what year the bright stainless first came out (mine's a 1984), anyone know for sure?

I plan on getting this one lettered, if just for the FHP connection.
 
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