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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my 4" '61 Python back from Colts today. They did one heck of a job and totally exceeded my already high expectations. I believe a new hand may have been fitted as well because the timing is now perfect and she has a new like feel to the trigger, not a heavier pull or anything worse than when I sent it in, just new feeling. Right away I carefully wiped the gun down with a cotton flannel rag with a few drops of CLP to clean off the oil Colt put on it. The polishing job, everything was spectacular and I now have a new 45 year old Python with old grips. Have to get better looking grips! How soon would I be able to use a Carnuba based firearms wax on it to protect it? I've just seen a new product by Flitz which claims to be safe on blued firearms and contains no abrasive agents. Anyone tried it?
 

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I'd let the finish "cure" for at least 2 to 3 months before doing anything with it.
New blue jobs are still "green" and a little "soft" so it's a good idea to just keep a medium-thick coat of CLP on it for a fews months.

Once or twice a week, coat a CLEAN new patch with CLP and gently rub the finish down.
This will remove any oxidized bluing and will cause the finish to get even shinier.
You may notice a little brown stain on the patch. This is the oxidized bluing.

I personally do NOT recommend Flitz or any other metal polish.
They ALL contain some abrasives, which is how they polish and remove dirt and discoloration.

Over time, (and a LOT faster, if you rub a little too hard) these will all thin or even remove the bluing.
If you coat the bluing with CLP or wax there's no reason for the Flitz, new or old, and no chance of doing any damage.

I'd let it age and let the CLP continue removing any oxidation for a few months or so, then use a carnuba wax if you want.

My recommendation: NO Flitz or other polishes EVER, and NO automotive waxes. To many of them contain mild abrasives too.
In my opinion, the best treatment is something like CLP Breakfree, or a hard carnuba wax.
These are proven to NOT damage blued finishes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks dfaris. This here is the new Flitz stuff. Says it contains no abrasives and is made specifically for blued finishes. http://www.flitz-polish.com/products.asp?product_id=MFL23
But I'll just stick with the CLP treatment like you advise and then I'll check out some Renaisance wax after few months or so just to be on the safe side. Scary news: I have noticed someting of concern about the blueing job. On the right side of the frame between the grip and the rear of the cylinder shield the blueing seems a bit lighter, almost hazy. Still mirror shiny but maybe a little foggy. There is also a small dark spot in the middle of that area about the size of a screw head. Is this part of the oxidation process and should it clear up on it's own or should I contact Colt about it. Today the lighter area extends on down to the whole area of the frames right side beneath the cylinder and goes on right up to where the opposite of the crane is. I hadn't really noticed it being like that there yesterday when I got it but I did leave the gun sitting out on a table to get some air overnight. Other than that, the gun does look magnificent. There's not one scratch, pit, rounded corner, dull looking exposed metal, nada. On further inspection I believe the cylinder hand and the bolt were refitted with new parts. The rollmarks which were indeed recut are the exact '61 rollmarking like it came with and look fresh and original. Not exagerated. The horse is also perfect. I hope like heck I don't have to send it back to get reblued again but if I do how soon would I know for sure? Thanks.
 

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I'd gently rub the weird looking areas with a patch soaked in CLP.
If they're still there, contact Colt.

The Flitz may be something with silicone or a wax.
Until I know more, I'll still recommend CLP or wax.
Again, for new blued finishes, or old finishes that may be dirty and have some old oxidized blue, I still recommend applying CLP.
For new bluing, use CLP for several months, wiping with CLP once or twice a week.
For old, a day or two with a wipe or two should clean it up nicely.

AFTER that, you can use wax or try the new Flitz.
I just don't recommend Flitz POLISH or any other, since they ALL will degrade bluing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again dfaris. I don't want to start rubbing just yet as already since this morning more of the gun is turning to more of a blue than the black. I think that what I'm seeing is the finish going from an almost black to a more recognizable blue. Now the cylinder has the lighter more blueish look over 50% of it's surface and the barrel is lightening up a bit also. The only weird thing so far left is the one spot or whatever but that has also changed it's appearence since this morning, now it's more like a dark ring and the middle of the spot has lightened up like the rest of the lighter areas. I'll keep an eye on it and I may just call Colt Monday and see what they have to say as well just in case I do have to send it back but I think it's going to be fine.
 

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Hey Rick,

I am planning on sending back one of my Pythons back to Colt. How did you package yours up and ship?

FC
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
FC, what I did was to obtain a nice plastic, with the egg shell foam lined double handgun case new for like $11. Makes a great range case btw, and then I took the box that my sattelite tv reciever unit came in and it was an almost perfect fit for the gun case. Turned the box insid out, did a little cutting and retaping, set the gun case in with the Python already in it and an envelope describing the work needed. Then all I had to do was wedge a couple of pieces of wadded up newspaper into the box to hold everything nice and snug and I taped it all up. After that it was just a matter of going to UPS and sending it off first class, overnite or whatever it was to the address given by Colt. Easy as pie but take $65 or so with you to UPS, they aint zactly cheap! From Colt back to you the shipping is only like $30 or so. The work really is great though and more than worth the money and the short wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You're welcome for the info. I called Colt today and described the streaks and the ring/spot on the finish, which are still there btw, and they said it sounds like bluing salts may have gotten onto the finish and that the gun would have to be refinished again. Drats! One more thing I noticed today that I think may be incorrect is the Python rollmark. I'm about 92% positive it was centered on the barrel before I sent the gun in to be redone as compared the the same rollmark on my 6" Python which was not centered. I'm going to hope it would be possible for them to re-recut the rollmark on that side as the rollmark now is much closer to the frame than it is to the muzzle end of the barrel. Keeping my fingers crossed everything turns out OK this time. Again, the gunsmithing is perfect, lockup, cylinder gap, I think even the front and rear of the cylinder were surface ground to like new again. Really she's like a new Python otherwise.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
One more thing I noticed today that I think may be incorrect is the Python rollmark. I'm about 92% positive it was centered on the barrel before I sent the gun in to be redone as compared the the same rollmark on my 6" Python which was not centered. I'm going to hope it would be possible for them to re-recut the rollmark on that side as the rollmark now is much closer to the frame than it is to the muzzle end of the barrel.

[/ QUOTE ]

Are you telling me that they fill the existing rollmark and then redo it? I thought that they just clean up the existing one. Interesting. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Truthfully, I thought they grind the old rollmarks off and then literally *recut* them. But maybe they do just clean them up. I'll ask before I ship the gun as then I'd know for sure if it's at least possible the rolls were more centered or not on my Python. Sure damn wish I'd a took pictures before I sent it off now! The way it is now, the right side of the Python 357 roll is 5/16" from the frame and the left side is roughly 1 1/4" from the muzzle. I would have swore that it was almost centered beforehand. It's not bad, heck I hadn't even given it much notice till yesterday. The rollmark locations are all different on Pythons anyhow so I may as well just have them leave it as is now.
 

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I have an early advertising picture of a Python in the first year or two the 4" barrel was offered.

It shows the lettering positioned to the rear of the barrel.

It's VERY difficult to totally remove barrel stamps on a ribbed and lugged barrel like the Python without leaving a lop-sided barrel with a noticeable out-of-round area where the lettering was removed.

This requires removing a lot of metal to get to the bottom of the stamp, so I'm sure Colt is simply re-marking in the same spot as original.

The GREAT news is, that Colt is now able to offer re-marking of revolvers with finishes requiring so much polishing that the lettering is degraded.

I'm not aware of any other gun maker offering this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks again for the cool info dfaris. Yes, it must be a heck of a job recutting the same markings to look new again but the results are like new. I sent the Python on its way back to CMC today with a letter describing the problems I found with the finish. It's possible that in lieu of them reimbursing me with a check for the cost to re-ship that I will have a nice set of the walnut Elite stocks fitted. The Customer service person thought that they should have no problem with that request so the return trip wont be all for naught. One last imperfection I observered was that on the sideplate that the rampant pony is on that there are faint yet distinctive vertical grinding marks covering the entire plate that are nowhere else to be found on the gun. I noted in the letter that the sideplate area may possibly not have been polished to the same degree as the rest of the firearm. They'll check it out I'm sure.

It sounds like a whole lot of bitchin on my part but really I'm sure most of what I see happened in the bluing tank because for the most part all of the hand work is impeccable and has really transformed the old gun to better than what I've seen new on other guns from other makes. The wait for the re-refin will be short and sweet this time now that I've had a taste of what I'm in for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As a matter of fact it's on the FedX truck out for delivery to my residence as I write this. Instead of having Colt shoot me a check for the return shipping reimbursement I worked out a deal with them and got the walnut Python Elite grips fitted for the gun instead @ no extra charge. I asked them about how long the finish should cure before I shoot it and they told me it's ready to shoot as soon as I get it back. That sorta makes sense but I'll heed the wise council from dfaris about keeping the finished covered with a light oil and not shooting it for a few months anyhow. By then I may send the gun out for a super action job by one of the few that are able to do it these days. We'll see. I'll post back later how my gun looks this time.
 

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You can shoot it immediately.
The oil soak for a few weeks or a month will just make the finish shine more by removing oxidized bluing.

By the timer you get it, the new blue job will no longer be "green" and will be completely "cured".

Shoot away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, so far it still looks boogered up in the tube behind the ejector rod. This time the tube was loaded with a brown ruddy polishing media grit. I blasted all of that out with Birchwood Casey Barricade and a handfull of swabs. The gun seems about the same, same area of a lighter looking blue but this time I'll just wait it out. There's no spots this time around, it's not as bad but it still don't quite seem right. It was definitely more covered in grease an crud this time also. The grips look great and feel wonderful, great job there and I did get the free gunsmithing so I can't complain too much. I'll just shoot it as is in about a month unless it starts really looking crappy right away. Grease and residue cleaned up fine with CLP. If I do another Python it will get nickle plated for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Called Colt customer service back the other day and told them that my Pythons Royal Blue was still not right and they were very nice and apologetic. I mentioned that I didn't think the gun was totally reblued the second time and that it looked like they tried to fix the botched up job rather than refinish it again. I based that assumption on the fact that I had started getting slight drag marks in the cylinder notches and they were still there when I got the gun back. Didn't mention that fact but she said when the gun was sent out for a reblue they confirmed it was totally refinished. At any rate they're sending me a call tag to have Fed X pick it up no charge so it can be examined at Colt before it gets sent to be refinished again. Wish me luck, 3rd times the charm.
 

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You have gone and made me nervous Rick. I have mine over at Colt right now. It is in for a reblue and recut. What was meant by the comment "when the gun was sent out for reblue"... Are you telling me now that Colt is again sending them out to other shops? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

FC
 
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