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Hi everyone. I’m asking a question for my father-in-law, because I promised him I would. He only collects NIB snake guns and nothing else. Once or twice a year he takes them out of the safe and waxes them. That’s right, gun wax. He never shoots any. Anyway, from years of waxing, everything is now all gummed up. Now he wants to use a cleaner to remove all of that wax and apply oil. He wants me to ask Colt Forum members what they recommend, because he only trusts anything, and anyone, associated with the Colt name. Not mocking that. I respect that. I have guns of many manufacturers, and I use Break Free, CLP, and Gunscrubber on my guns, including my Colt snake guns. But, I’m a shooter. I shoot mine. I use Frog Lube around forcing cones, but nowhere else. I use gun oils for bores, and sometimes mist actions with WD-40 or silicone spray. He is worried those products are too harsh and may ruin finishes. He has Colt Royal Blue and Stainless steel guns. I told him I always finish up with a wipe down with a silicone cloth, and I have never had a finish problem. I also suggested he have a trusted gunsmith do this, so as not to damage side-plate screws, etcetera. But, he wants to do this himself.

With all of that said, what do you folks recommend for removing the waxy buildup, and for oiling or protecting fine Colts. Again, I promised I would ask the members and respond back to him with Forum members’ recommendations. Thanks.

Terry
 

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I have relied on Hoppe's No. 9 for over sixty years and have never seen fit to change. I always clean my guns with that product, and then oil them generously with my gun oil, then wipe down with a soft cloth sold through auto supply stores. "My gun oil" is a 50/50 mix of automotive motor oil and Three-In-One machine oil. Never found any reason to abandon this process.

Bob Wright
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have relied on Hoppe's No. 9 for over sixty years and have never seen fit to change. I always clean my guns with that product, and then oil them generously with my gun oil, then wipe down with a soft cloth sold through auto supply stores. "My gun oil" is a 50/50 mix of automotive motor oil and Three-In-One machine oil. Never found any reason to abandon this process.

Bob Wright
Thank you, Bob. Yes, I use Hoppe's #9 also. I forgot about that one. Thanks.
 

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Over the many years, I found that a great all-around product is CLP Breakfree.
The "Cleaner" component will dissolve and remove the wax, and the "Protective" part will protect the finish.

CLP will not harm any standard gun finish like bluing and certainly not stainless steel.
Unlike solvents like gun scrubber, there's no risk it will leak into the action and leave it unprotected.

If your father intends to remove side plates, make SURE he has actual gunsmiths screwdrivers.
I recommend Brownell's Magna-Tip bits and a "law enforcement" size screwdriver handle also from Brownell's.

To fit all Colt revolver screws I recommend the following sizes. The two thicknesses in each size it to insure a perfect fit in screw slots that may vary.........

.150-2, .150-3
.180-2, .180-3
.210-2, .210-3

He also needs to understand that side plates are removed by rapping the grip frame under the side plate with a screwdriver handle to vibrate the plate off, NOT prying on it.
Also, he needs to understand what to do if things get vibrated loose and need to be put in the correct position.
For all this I recommend that he buy a copy of the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual, Volume One.
When dealing with high value guns like Pythons, the small expense is money very well spent.......


Dash 3 and larger bits.......


Dash 2.....


"Law enforcement" size handles. I recommend buying a magnetic retention and a clip-tip, both will be needed at some point.....

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Over the many years, I found that a great all-around product is CLP Breakfree.
The "Cleaner" component will dissolve and remove the wax, and the "Protective" part will protect the finish.

CLP will not harm any standard gun finish like bluing and certainly not stainless steel.
Unlike solvents like gun scrubber, there's no risk it will leak into the action and leave it unprotected.

If your father intends to remove side plates, make SURE he has actual gunsmiths screwdrivers.
I recommend Brownell's Magna-Tip bits and a "law enforcement" size screwdriver handle also from Brownell's.

To fit all Colt revolver screws I recommend the following sizes. The two thicknesses in each size it to insure a perfect fit in screw slots that may vary.........

.150-2, .150-3
.180-2, .180-3
.210-2, .210-3

He also needs to understand that side plates are removed by rapping the grip frame under the side plate with a screwdriver handle to vibrate the plate off, NOT prying on it.
Also, he needs to understand what to do if things get vibrated loose and need to be put in the correct position.
For all this I recommend that he buy a copy of the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual, Volume One.
When dealing with high value guns like Pythons, the small expense is money very well spent.......


Dash 3 and larger bits.......


Dash 2.....


"Law enforcement" size handles. I recommend buying a magnetic retention and a clip-tip, both will be needed at some point.....

Wow, that was a lot of info. Thanks. I'm going to follow through on this for mysef too. Thanks again.
 

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Rig universal rust inhibiting grease for long time storage, Rusteprufe oil for wipe downs and cleaning bore, and Breakfree CLP for the Guns action lubrication.

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Nothing works better................IMHO.

However, if I could use only one product..............I agree with dfariswheel. Breakfree CLP, now distributed by Saffariland would be it. Something I found interesting about the product. In the early Breakfree CLP, the Teflon would actually settle to the bottom when stored. It was important to shake the product well before use. I purchased a bottle a few years back. No longer could you see the Teflon in the liquid nor did it settle. This brought up the question if Breakfree CLP still had Teflon in it.

A interesting read on Breakfree: Break Free CLP
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Rig universal rust inhibiting grease for long time storage and Rusteprufe oil for wipe downs.

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Thanks a million. I was not aware of these either. I appreciate all of the responses. I am going to try the things everyone has suggested on my own guns. I have always been an old school Hoppes #9 guy, but I am intrigued by all the products I was unaware of. Thanks again.
 

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CLP Breakfree still contains Teflon.... it says on the bottle it has PTFE, which is Teflon.

Years ago I settled on several lubricants that meets all the needs.........

CLP Breakfree is used as a lube in the AR-15's (if the military use it it's good) and as a rust prevention coating for all guns.
Even in guns that use a different product to lubricate, I apply a few drops to a soft toothbrush and "scrub" all surfaces to prevent rusting.

Synco Super Lube is available as a stiff grease, an oil that's a thick oil-thin grease consistency, and as a spray-on grease.
These are clear-white products, totally synthetic, and contain Teflon.
These stay right where they're put and last in revolver actions at least 10 years.

I've been experimenting with WD-40 Dry Lube with Teflon for use in shotgun magazine tubes and rifle and pistol magazines.
So far it seems to work well, but I'm not convinced it's the best for shotguns. I still get a lot of shotgun magazine spring "squeak", so I may go back to a light grease coating for the springs.

In the end, virtually any lubricant will work well in firearms, it's just a matter of finding one you like, then move on to more important things.
Looking for "the best" lube is wasted time.

The best actual test of lubricants is found in this article. Unlike most, this is not just a rust test, it tests actual lubrication effectiveness........

 

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I like Breakfree CLP, but this is the reason I stated it's use for lubrication of bearing surfaces and not as a bore cleaner: (This information is from the link I provide in my last response, and I give full credit to them)


CLP’s proprietary formula contains multiple ingredients including specially treated PTFE for improved boundary film strength that reduces friction, retards wear, and stops build-up of foreign matter." This has been a polarizing subject. The science is that when PTFE is exposed to high heat it begins to deteriorate after about 500 °F, and decomposes above 662 °F. It produces Hydroflouric Acid which can corrode and etch steel as well as many other harmful gases. Off gasses from PTFE has led to many studies. Google searches for Teflon off gas or Teflon Flu will show many results. Some manufacturers (FN Herstal) do NOT recommend liquids with PTFE on their firearms. In a manual of the FNP-9 handguns it states "NEVER USE HYDROCARBONS, TRICHLOROETHYLENE, AMMONIA NOR TEFLON-BASED LUBRICANTS AS THEY CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR PISTOL." The manual to a newer handgun like the FNS states "NOTICE! NEVER SOAK YOUR FIREARM IN HYDROCARBONS, AMMONIA, TRICHLOROETHYLENE OR TEFLON-BASED LUBRICANTS AS THEY CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR PISTOL." It appears FN has went from never use Teflon lubricants to never soak in Teflon lubricants. Also the warning I can only find on their polymer handguns and not their FN15 AR platform or shotguns.

So we know Teflon is no good but it goes a little deeper.

In what quantities is it no good? FN states Teflon based. The best I could find is that Break Free CLP is ~0.8% to 1.0% PTFE by weight. Would you say that is Teflon based? Probably not. Maybe there is a certain threshold at which there is too much Teflon? Unfortunately I do not know what point that is. It could be 0.1% it could be 51%.

In what conditions is it no good? We know high heat can cause formation of acids and fumes that we don't want. So does the barrel get that hot? Does the bore? Does only the first couple of inches reach those temperatures? On an AR platform does the gas tube or gas key? Many choose to use Break Free CLP on the whole gun EXCEPT the bore to minimize any risk of high temperature exposure. That is a personal choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
CLP Breakfree still contains Teflon.... it says on the bottle it has PTFE, which is Teflon.

Years ago I settled on several lubricants that meets all the needs.........

CLP Breakfree is used as a lube in the AR-15's (if the military use it it's good) and as a rust prevention coating for all guns.
Even in guns that use a different product to lubricate, I apply a few drops to a soft toothbrush and "scrub" all surfaces to prevent rusting.

Synco Super Lube is available as a stiff grease, an oil that's a thick oil-thin grease consistency, and as a spray-on grease.
These are clear-white products, totally synthetic, and contain Teflon.
These stay right where they're put and last in revolver actions at least 10 years.

I've been experimenting with WD-40 Dry Lube with Teflon for use in shotgun magazine tubes and rifle and pistol magazines.
So far it seems to work well, but I'm not convinced it's the best for shotguns. I still get a lot of shotgun magazine spring "squeak", so I may go back to a light grease coating for the springs.

In the end, virtually any lubricant will work well in firearms, it's just a matter of finding one you like, then move on to more important things.
Looking for "the best" lube is wasted time.

The best actual test of lubricants is found in this article. Unlike most, this is not just a rust test, it tests actual lubrication effectiveness........

Good points. I especially like what you said in regards to military use. I would like to think they would have tested numerous products, but I guess you never know.
 

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dfariswheel has a good memory even though that data is old it is helpful even today. When I saw it originally thought the test coupon idea was the nuts! It is really telling. Even if there have been improvements and new products introduced it will put you on the right path.

In this test for corrosion protection the WD 40 product that is made for long term storage rally did shine (pun intended). What is also interesting is how many products are worthless for corrosion protection.
 

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dfariswheel has a good memory even though that data is old it is helpful even today. When I saw it originally thought the test coupon idea was the nuts! It is really telling. Even if there have been improvements and new products introduced it will put you on the right path.

In this test for corrosion protection the WD 40 product that is made for long term storage rally did shine (pun intended). What is also interesting is how many products are worthless for corrosion protection.
Good point, Dave. I have always used Breakfree and Gunscrubber on my guns. I also use Hoppe's #9 and use either Hoppe's or Remington gun oil in the bores. I use silicone and/or WD-40 for rust protection. But, I cleaned, lubricated, and stored a .30-06. When I went to use it the following year, there was corrosion in the barrel, despite cleaning and oiling it. I m assuming the last loads I shot were very corrosive, but still, I thought Hoppe's and Gunscrubber would have taken care of that. So now, I not only worry about rust, I fear corrosion.
 

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Good point, Dave. I have always used Breakfree and Gunscrubber on my guns. I also use Hoppe's #9 and use either Hoppe's or Remington gun oil in the bores. I use silicone and/or WD-40 for rust protection. But, I cleaned, lubricated, and stored a .30-06. When I went to use it the following year, there was corrosion in the barrel, despite cleaning and oiling it. I m assuming the last loads I shot were very corrosive, but still, I thought Hoppe's and Gunscrubber would have taken care of that. So now, I not only worry about rust, I fear corrosion.
Ok just to be Very Clear. The WD 40 product is not the WD40 you have been buying for 40 years it is specific formulation MUCH different product to protect metal long term. Rust is actually corrosion btw. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi everyone. I’m asking a question for my father-in-law, because I promised him I would. He only collects NIB snake guns and nothing else. Once or twice a year he takes them out of the safe and waxes them. That’s right, gun wax. He never shoots any. Anyway, from years of waxing, everything is now all gummed up. Now he wants to use a cleaner to remove all of that wax and apply oil. He wants me to ask Colt Forum members what they recommend, because he only trusts anything, and anyone, associated with the Colt name. Not mocking that. I respect that. I have guns of many manufacturers, and I use Break Free, CLP, and Gunscrubber on my guns, including my Colt snake guns. But, I’m a shooter. I shoot mine. I use Frog Lube around forcing cones, but nowhere else. I use gun oils for bores, and sometimes mist actions with WD-40 or silicone spray. He is worried those products are too harsh and may ruin finishes. He has Colt Royal Blue and Stainless steel guns. I told him I always finish up with a wipe down with a silicone cloth, and I have never had a finish problem. I also suggested he have a trusted gunsmith do this, so as not to damage side-plate screws, etcetera. But, he wants to do this himself.

With all of that said, what do you folks recommend for removing the waxy buildup, and for oiling or protecting fine Colts. Again, I promised I would ask the members and respond back to him with Forum members’ recommendations. Thanks.

Terry
Thanks, everyone. You gave me a lot of tremendous information. I think I am good now. The father-in-law and I are off to clean guns now. I offered to help, because let's face it, and day you're holding classic snake revolvers is a great day. Thanks again everyone.
 
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