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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

I exercised some patience and finally got a pretty good deal on my first Python, which will be a shooter of course! The bore is excellent as well as the timing and lock-up. It does have some small surface rust spots (This is called "speckling", correct?) which I'd like to work on. I was contemplating some Hoppes and 0000 steel wool, but my technical advisor (aka, the gun club member who let me shoot his Python and got me hooked....) cringed when I suggested that. He recommend Kroil and NO steel wool. I have had good luck with other guns using 0000 steel wool, but wanted to get some more opinions or suggestions from all the gurus here.

Thanks,

Greg
 

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Kroil is amazing stuff but as far as steel wool, um...rather use bronze or brass 0000 as steel wool particulates WILL rust and one cannot be too careful. One little strand that somehow manages to find a niche on your revolver and it'll be a rust magnet. There was a recent thread concerning rust and pitting removal or more appropriately retardation and the Scotch Brite Very Fine pads were mentioned by some very knowledgeable members. Once you've prepped the area from as much pitting/speckling as is possible make sure you use a good oil/lubricant (CLP, Eezox, etc) and after a good wipe down protect further (if you are so inclined) with a coat or 2 of Ren wax. Everyone has a different process, just do a search on "cleaning, rust, lubricating, protecting finishes" (any combination of words) and you should get hours of reading material :)
 

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I just got a new Hoppe's "rust and lead remover" cloth . My old one was around 20 yrs old and worked well. It really depends on how deep and big the rust freckling is. I used it on a backstrap recently on a USFA model with the extra special old armory blueing. It took the rust and the bluing off where the rust specks were. The rust was deep and nothing really to lose. USFA refinished it for me for free. On regular "dome blue" or other standard blue I have had good results. I have never used the steel wool but others have and also reported good results. There was a very recent post on using oil and steel wool and/or bronze wool. try this post. http://www.coltforum.com/forums/colt-revolvers/49648-removing-corrosion-recommendations.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both very much! I had tried searching for "remove speckling" and came up dry... I tried your suggested searches along with the one link and got plenty of good info. I think I'm going to try just Kroil overnight and wiping it clean as my first effort. If that doesn't take care of it all, I'll try the bronze/brass wool in 0000. Looks like I also need to order some of the Renaissance wax too.

Thanks again,

Greg
 

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I work on medical equipment and it can get very rusted up from the constant cleaning and biohazards that drip. first time I used or heard of Kroil was on the job. It's high odor and can clear out a room, but it certainly works on rust better than the standard WD40 types. Yeah, I'm not usually impressed with the hype, but "Ren Wax" is wonderful. Not a single gun store around local has it here. Think i searched for a super saver shipping and went with the ever cursid .. walmart of the web.. Amazon for the Ren Wax.
 

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Being in the auto body repair business I see the use of scotch brite pads every day. I would NEVER let one get close to any of my firearms. OOOO wool, a light touch, and lots of oil.
 

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Flitz and a stiff cotton rag, apply flitz...let dry, polish out with rag, repeat as required. It will remove rust and not the blue. I just de-rusted a customers Diamondback using the described method...works great!
geichal
 

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Flitz polish will remove bluing, if overdone. (This comment is based upon experience.)

Polishes contain abrasives. Abrasives abrade away the thin bluing (nickel, case hardening, whatever).

Flitz will remove case coloring, too, I think. (This comment is based upon reading.)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got a can of Kroil yesterday and applied liberally and let soak for a few hours. I wiped it down and reapplied before bed and it already was looking very good. I'll wipe it down again with an old t-shirt when I get home from work and see how it looks. I have a feeeling I'll then just wait for the Ren wax that I ordered to arrive and give it a good rub down.

Thanks again for all the great advice!

Greg
 
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