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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a first generation Colt SAA and found that the single screw at the front of the trigger guard was stripped. Apparently the hole got stripped so someone put some kind of epoxy or filler in the hole then put in a smaller screw. Would like to get the hole repaired and the proper screw replaced. I'm in MN. Can anyone recommend a repair place. Is this the type of repair that most competent gunsmiths could handle? Thanks.
 

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If you happen to have a tap and die set you could re-cut the threads. I don't know if common sets have sizes that small, but mabey you could find a single tap. That's what I would do.
 

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You could just order a new correctly threaded hole from Colt, and have a Gunsmith install it.

( Just kidding, sorry...)

Images?

On Machinery and so on, one would usually use a 'Helicoil', for which one drills and taps to the next size 'up', the center of which screw-in device then obliges the original Thread size.

Or, when possible, one would drill and tap for the next logical size 'up' and just have a larger Screw or Bolt.

On a Gun, this would not be a pleasant sort of repair though.
 

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Just JB Weld it!! After all, takedown for cleaning is for sissies!! :p


Seriously, as mentioned have someone do a proper helicoil on it. Someone who knows what they are doing and not Ralph down at the corner Texaco. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
J-B Weld.....riiiiiight! Actually, I think that is what's in the hole now. Found an old-timey gunsmith shop who will look at it. Helicoil sounds like the right kind of fix. Thanks.
 

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You say the thread in the frame is stripped & someone glued in a smaller screw? Before doing anything else I would make sure the frame thread is bad. Try any of the other grip frame screws to check the thread for sure - they all have he same thread. If the frame hole is actually stripped (& I never heard of a SAA frame hole being stripped) maybe the helicoil idea or tap out to next larger size is a good one - but unless you know what you're doing, get it done by someone who does. If it turns out all you need is a replacement screw, sellers like Numrich offer sets of Uberti SAA screws that all fit except the one for the hammer (a different size) - set of screws about $15.
 

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I'll take a counter view.
Absolutely DO NOT start jacklegging a First Generation SAA with heli-coils, glue, or anything else like it.

The correct fix is to have a single action specialist look at it.
He may be able to save the existing hole or he may need to drill it out and re-thread and fit an over-sized screw.
How to correct it is up to the expert.

Nothing makes you sicker or angrier than opening up a fine old gun or watch and finding that years ago some fool butchered it up, "to get it working".
For fine old guns, watches, or most any thing else, the object is to do as close to a factory repair as possible. Factories and good gunsmiths don't use glue or do patch work.
 

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Edddie Janis is a SAA Specialist. He can help.

-Mike
 

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Thanks for the new contact Dogface6....Dave's in my Favs now!
 

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Dave does amazing work.

He rebarrelled my Colt Peacemaker Commemorative - the Cavalry version - and turned it into the Artillery variant, with a properly-marked 5 1/2"barrel, Inspector's stamps and Rinaldo A. Carr's stock cartouche.

Beautiful piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I cleaned out the screw hole in the frame and it has been drilled out to about 7/32":bang_wall:. Thank goodness the hole in the trigger guard had not been enlarged nor had the hole been drilled out all the way through the frame, so the hole is correct on the cylinder side. I looked at the websites of the SAA repair guys you referenced in the earlier posts. I wonder if it either of them would handle a small repair like this so I will call them both. The revolver is an otherwise intact and original early first generation so I need to get it put back in operation.


Firearm Gun Trigger Revolver Gun accessory Wood
 

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If it were mine I would drill the hole out to quarter inch or maybe 5/16 (decide based on edge distances) and put in a tightly threaded plug. Then re-drill it and thread it properly for the standard screw. Reassembled you will have a sound altho modified gun with no external evidence except if the cylinder is removed and the plug can be seen.

Any repair that is detectable won't do it's collector value any good -- so if that's important to you it's better to have an understanding beforehand with whoever does your job.
 

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"Well I cleaned out the screw hole in the frame and it has been drilled out to about 7/32":bang_wall:. Thank goodness the hole in the trigger guard had not been enlarged nor had the hole been drilled out all the way through the frame, so the hole is correct on the cylinder side."

Do you have some "intact" threads where the hole was not drilled out? If so you may be able to use a longer screw that will engage those threads and not have to do any other repair.

You can also use JB Weld. Coat the screw with wax or grease, fill the hole with JB Weld and carefully put the screw in the hole. After the JB sets up, unscrew the screw and clean up the excess JB from the frame. As long as you don't overtighten the screw when replacing the TG it will hold. Brownells also sells a product called "Epoxy Steel Putty" and another called "Steel Bed" that will work in this type situation.
 

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Locite the co. That makes adhesives and threadlocker also makes a product called form-a thread check them out we use this at work and it is really a great product
 

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I described my 'plug fix' above in #14. For a a concealed repair I would drive in an iron plug from below to about 3/32" below the level of the frame interior. With my MIG welder I would fill the hole with a high amp touch weld. Let it cool, then drill the outside of the plug about 3/32" deep and repeat. Finish off both surfaces, re-drill & re-tap.

MIG weld produces very local heat and probably wouldn't heat-color the frame. If it did show it would probably be easy to blend it with the original color-case if it's still present.

NOTE - I have some experience with this sort of thing. Depending on the need for perfection I might make a mock-up of the job with a piece of steel the same size-shape & mass as the repair area. It could be worthwhile to do a few dry runs to learn what to expect & develop something of a technique.
 

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I described my 'plug fix' above in #14. For a a concealed repair I would drive in an iron plug from below to about 3/32" below the level of the frame interior. With my MIG welder I would fill the hole with a high amp touch weld. Let it cool, then drill the outside of the plug about 3/32" deep and repeat. Finish off both surfaces, re-drill & re-tap.

MIG weld produces very local heat and probably wouldn't heat-color the frame. If it did show it would probably be easy to blend it with the original color-case if it's still present.

NOTE - I have some experience with this sort of thing. Depending on the need for perfection I might make a mock-up of the job with a piece of steel the same size-shape & mass as the repair area. It could be worthwhile to do a few dry runs to learn what to expect & develop something of a technique.
That would be a good way to go.
 

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Do you have some "intact" threads where the hole was not drilled out? If so you may be able to use a longer screw that will engage those threads and not have to do any other repair.
+1 on this. There are a lot of threads in the frame thickness there and even if there are only a few left a longer screw will work. However, be aware that a screw too long that protrudes through the frame will drag on the cylinder.
 

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The only problem not mentioned here is that the correct thread for 1st generation and post war/pre war SAAs is an 8x34 'rolled' thread and you will not find a tap anywhere. The only ones that can cut that thread to my knowledge are Dave Lanara (my preference) and maybe Eddie Janis, Peacemaker Specialties. Possibly others, I just don't know them.

This is not a big or expensive repair. Personally with this dicey job on a nice 1st generation Colt, and I usually do all my own repairs, there's only one right way to do it: I go to the expert when needed. I suspect the hole will be welded up, drilled and tapped like original.
 
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