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Discussion Starter #1
Rust solution for \"quick\" rust?

Last weekend I shot clays and the last 10 minutes was in the rain. I dried the gun off with a dry towel and oiled the gun as soon as I got home. Today I discover that I have multiple rust spots. What do I do to kill the rust and stop it dead in it's tracks?
 

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Re: Rust solution for \"quick\" rust?

What finish?
Smooth, polished blue, or a rougher finish like Remington uses on their Express guns?

In most cases, soaking the area with CLP Breakfree and allowing to stand over night will stop the rust.
Next day (Depending on the finish) apply more CLP and use a brass "toothbrush" to scrub the area.
This will remove the softened rust.

If necessary, use a copper removing bore solvent to remove any brass color from the metal.

To protect, spray the gun dripping wet, inside and out, with CLP and allow to soak for 30 minutes.
Wipe off the excess.
The CLP will "soak" into the surface, especially on rougher finishes, and will protect the metal.

Another protective coating is wax.
Some people use one of the "Museum" quality hard waxes, or ordinary Johnson's Paste Floor Wax.

Apply a medium-heavy coat to the exterior, and warm up with a hair dryer until the wax melts.
Wipe off any excess for normal use, or leave as-is for heavy weather use.

This is a treatment many salt water duck hunters use to protect their guns in salt spray.
 

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Re: Rust solution for \"quick\" rust?

The gun is a O/U Beretta. Today's humidity was 87%. The rust almost seemed to develope just today. Where can I find CLP? Even if the CLP removes the rust I'm sure I'll have pitting. Please advise.
 

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Re: Rust solution for \"quick\" rust?

You can get CLP Breakfree at Wal-Mart in the spray can, and at most any gun store in spray can or in various size black plastic bottles.

I prefer the bottles since it doesn't waste as much from over spray.

NOTE: Shake the DICKENS out of the can or bottle. The Teflon settles and if you don't shake it well, all you get is solvent.

If you've got pitting, you've got pitting.
The only way pitting can be "removed" is by polishing the metal down to the bottom of the pits and re-bluing.

Keeping a coat of CLP on the metal will prevent further rust damage, but I'd take a LONG look at where and under what condition you're storing your guns.

A good preventive is to put a bit of CLP on a patch and wipe all exposed metal surfaces with it whenever you're handled the gun, and before putting it away.
This will neutralize any fingerprints.

CLP Breakfree is one of the very top gun lubes and rust proofers.
 

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Re: Rust solution for \"quick\" rust?

My method of storage is a dry rod in my safe, Vapor Paper and the special plastic bags. A light coat of Rem Oil before placing the firearm in the bag. I remove as much of the air possible.

I started using the Vapor Paper and the special plastic bags one week ago. Other than using CLP, how's my storage method?
 

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Re: Rust solution for \"quick\" rust?

You'll be "OK" with the storage, but the original problem was the "maintainance" immediateley following the use.
As you said, you were "shooting last weekend" and you did a " wipe down" and in this time period as 'Wheel' asked above, if it was a 'Remington' we have seen them go bad ,overnight!

Any kind of 'rust' preventive oil(I have used MOST of them ,and they all work) should be applied right after and the NEXT day, you address the situation. As said above, I too use 'brass or even bronze' wool pads, and gently wipe down the gun ,then removeing any of this 'rust' preventive oil, don't leave it on, cause the dirt,water or contaminants are still in or on it.Clean this all off and then 'reoil' and here again,I too have always used 'Breakfree' CLP and I also use 'RIG'.
Hopefully you caught it 'before' it has actually pitted, but if after your 'clean it off' you see speckles or light spots (no blueing) you just may be screwed. Sometimes a 'clean,dry, degrease and it "may " touch up with a 'cold blue' but no quarranty it will 'blend', but at least will not be "bare" and allow 'corrosion'.The 'matte' finish guns, like the Rems. will touch up decently, the 'shiny' higher gloss blued guns will NOT!
As 'Wheel' said, some of these guns will do this everytime and usually clean up fairly well we have found. The wax will help to 'seal it'and protect a bit better.

Note, as for the 'rust' oils, we usually keep a can of WD-40 in the truck and after hunting ,shooting, possibly "bad" exposure, empty the gun out and just spray the hell out of the entire gun. The get it out/off at you earliest convenience. Yes, WD-40 works on electric motors when they are "RUNNING" and will work on you cars engine , if you have 'bad' wires and short's. So in a pinch ,use it. the bad part is the 'propellant' that is in the can to make it 'spray' out, that is the "problem", we use a 'pump' spray bottle.;)
No this is NOT a plug for 'wd-40' ,it just works and it's ALL over the place, there's LOTS of better ,good gun oils. Better to protect first, than have to "save it" later! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Rust solution for \"quick\" rust?

I am screwed. The steel is pitted. I followed the suggested procedure The evening after my original post. I never thought rust could develop that fast. I now have a can of WD40 in my truck.
 

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Re: Rust solution for \"quick\" rust?

"Dried blood" works even quicker! Will sometimes split the web of my hand open firing my pre war S&W N Frames,with the original non magna grips. Even though I use a grip adapter,on them,sometimes with heavier loads,this will happen. So,I tape the web of my hand! No,don't care about the hand,but blood on the gun!

Colt New Services,with the pre 1926-28 "L shaped" cylinder latch,can lacerate your thumb pretty well,depending on your hand size and hold. I learne to use "different stocks,grip adapter,and temporary switching to the newer rounder latch(OK,it takes 10 minutes!) when I dripped blood all over a 1917 years ago, Wiped it off with a dry rag,attnded to my thumb,then,'bout 2 hrs. later,got to cleaning the old 1917;pitting had developed already,on latch & sideplate and frame. Thankfully,the gun was an old reworked beater!

Saw a 6" 357 Model,that someone had "eaten". Thats a nice way of saying put muzzle in mouth & pulled trigger. Gun was great on one side ,but totally pitted on the other where it had laid in the blood,even the bore was pitted near the muzzle from it. Dealer friend wanted $125 for its parts,which consisted of the internals and non original Herret Stocks(stained),plus the rare sight. I told him to put $300 on it,and tell what caused this(but don't give any details as to who had eaten it!), He did,and some "ghoul" bought it,for a wall hanger in his playroom!

Bud /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
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