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Ive never ran into this so Im hoping someone can help. Im installing a new bolt in a SAA that has about .008" of cylinder rotation at lock-up. After installing the new bolt, everything works fine until I install the cylinder and then it binds and will not rotate and the hammer cannot be pulled. I duplicated every dimension to the original bolt as far as I can tell except for the width of the bolt where it meets the cylinder notches. I even tried going a couple of thousands narrower to see it that was causing the bind but no luck. Any ideas? Thanks
 

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Fitting a replacement bolt in a Colt SAA has caused me to spend many many hours nearly every time I have done that task.. In your case, it sounds like the bolt is not 'dropping' soon enough to allow the cylinder to rotate. There are probably a few ways to attack that problem. It may be that the cam on the hammer is not engaging with the arm of the bolt soon enough. That MIGHT mean that you made the 'dished out' portion on that arm a bit too deep. Of course you might be able to compensate for that by removing a bit of metal from the top of the bolt that fits into the cylinder stops. There are probably at least a half dozen other issue that could be causing your problem. GOOD LUCK!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fitting a replacement bolt in a Colt SAA has caused me to spend many many hours nearly every time I have done that task.. In your case, it sounds like the bolt is not 'dropping' soon enough to allow the cylinder to rotate. There are probably a few ways to attack that problem. It may be that the cam on the hammer is not engaging with the arm of the bolt soon enough. That MIGHT mean that you made the 'dished out' portion on that arm a bit too deep. Of course you might be able to compensate for that by removing a bit of metal from the top of the bolt that fits into the cylinder stops. There are probably at least a half dozen other issue that could be causing your problem. GOOD LUCK!
Thank you. That may very well be the case because I can move the hammer slightly before the cam engages the bolt. Maybe I can try to bend that arm down slightly to where it is sitting on the cam at rest ?
 

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You didn't say if it was for a first, second or third gen gun, or what style of bolt you're using, pointed tine or rounded modern. I think Stclair is on the right track. Watch the bolt from the right side of the gun in strong light and note if it moves before or after the cylinder rotation. Removing a little from the leading edge of the head where it contacts the cylinder may be enough to get it going. Just go easy and remove as little as possible until it works. Also look at the length of the bolt head, sometimes aftermarkets are too long and bind in the bolt hole at the rear. Don't remove any material from the curve at the tine bottom, you wnat it to engage the hammer ASAP. Late engagement will drop the bolt late causing a bind.

jP
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You didn't say if it was for a first, second or third gen gun, or what style of bolt you're using, pointed tine or rounded modern. I think Stclair is on the right track. Watch the bolt from the right side of the gun in strong light and note if it moves before or after the cylinder rotation. Removing a little from the leading edge of the head where it contacts the cylinder may be enough to get it going. Just go easy and remove as little as possible until it works. Also look at the length of the bolt head, sometimes aftermarkets are too long and bind in the bolt hole at the rear. Don't remove any material from the curve at the tine bottom, you wnat it to engage the hammer ASAP. Late engagement will drop the bolt late causing a bind.

jP
Its a 1st Gen with a pointed tine. The bolt head is exactly the same size as the original but I will try take a light and see if the leading edge needs to be adjusted. I may have taken too much off of the bottom curve because it does engage the cam a little later than I think it should.
 

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For S&G's use the outside of the frame as a jig for your parts. Place them on the side in relation to where they would be inside and run your screws in from the right so they thread. It would give an indication of how it all works together.
 

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For S&G's use the outside of the frame as a jig for your parts. Place them on the side in relation to where they would be inside and run your screws in from the right so they thread. It would give an indication of how it all works together.
The accurate way this works is to use tubes, blocks or plates to shim out each part, otherwise just a little difference in motion where the tines intersect the cam will change the action. If you have a third gen bolt, give it a try, as I have been able to use them many times with great success an less fitting.

JP
 

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I call it a "labor of love" when I tinker on these. It always takes way more time than I plan. Sometimes I actually put it down and walk away until the mood strikes again so I don't get hasty and ruin a good part.
 

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The cam leg tine is not on top of the cam, the bolt is not being actuated by the cam. Hence, you pull hammer, hand hits ratchet without the bolt depressing, you're stuck.

You're going to have to refine that curve on the bottom of the cam leg tine so it reliably finds its place on top of the cam when hammer comes to rest.
 
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