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This is on an old artillery, so I'm assuming it may be a bit of rust. It's the screw closest to the barrel. All the other trigger guard and backstrap screws come out fine. Looks like the bolt, trigger, and hammer screws will come out too. Just not that one TG screw. I don't want to crank on the screwdriver too hard for fear of damaging the screw. One gentleman suggested I take the cylinder out, set the gun upright, and drip a few drops of Evaporust in the hole that's drilled through into the frame. This gun has no original blue finish so that's not a worry. He also suggested I could try some Kroil in that hole over night. His final suggestion was purchase a small torch and heat it up a bit till the oil starts smoking but I've never used a torch and I'm worried about damaging the patina finish.

Any thoughts on how to proceed?
 

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This is on an old artillery, so I'm assuming it may be a bit of rust. It's the screw closest to the barrel. All the other trigger guard and backstrap screws come out fine. Looks like the bolt, trigger, and hammer screws will come out too. Just not that one TG screw. I don't want to crank on the screwdriver too hard for fear of damaging the screw. One gentleman suggested I take the cylinder out, set the gun upright, and drip a few drops of Evaporust in the hole that's drilled through into the frame. This gun has no original blue finish so that's not a worry. He also suggested I could try some Kroil in that hole over night. His final suggestion was purchase a small torch and heat it up a bit till the oil starts smoking but I've never used a torch and I'm worried about damaging the patina finish.

Any thoughts on how to proceed?
hello, have you considered the use of a driving screwdriver? that is you tap it lightly with a hammer and it revolves the bit.
regards, bro
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hello, have you considered the use of a driving screwdriver? that is you tap it lightly with a hammer and it revolves the bit.
regards, bro
Never heard of this before. I would think the process of tapping with the hammer also helps to loosen things up. Perhaps in conjunction with Kroil? I'll check into it.
 

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Never heard of this before. I would think the process of tapping with the hammer also helps to loosen things up. Perhaps in conjunction with Kroil? I'll check into it.
hello, and i did say tapping lightly; a small amount of force is magnified by the mechanical process involved.
regards, bro
 

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Try the Kroil or ATF/Acetone first for a few days, maybe up to a week.
You could apply some torque to the screw and tap the handle of the screwdriver.
Heat the shaft of the screwdriver with a small torch and let the heat transfer to the screw.
As a next to last resort, if you have a drill press, chuck up the correct driver bit, clamp the gun firmly in place on the table, apply enough pressure to insure the driver bit doesn't slip and try turning the chuck to remove the screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Try the Kroil or ATF/Acetone first for a few days, maybe up to a week.
You could apply some torque to the screw and tap the handle of the screwdriver.
Heat the shaft of the screwdriver with a small torch and let the heat transfer to the screw.
As a next to last resort, if you have a drill press, chuck up the correct driver bit, clamp the gun firmly in place on the table, apply enough pressure to insure the driver bit doesn't slip and try turning the chuck to remove the screw.
Great advice, thanks. I don't have a torch, may have to get one. I think if it got to the point of using a drill press I'd just send it off to my gunsmith. I really don't want to mess up this gun.
 

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Never heard of this before. I would think the process of tapping with the hammer also helps to loosen things up. Perhaps in conjunction with Kroil? I'll check into it.
Impact screwdriver takes me back to my motorcycle repairman days, used them all the time.
 
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Kroil all the way for a couple days and go firm short turns but always careful to not slip or strip the screw. Of course a proper fitting screwdriver is a must. If you can’t feel it break loose with normal pressure, don’t apply anymore force and look at alternate methods as described above.
 

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OK, one more. Post-Kroil, find a bit which fits the slot most precisely. With frame in a padded vise, apply moderate torque to the screw while rapping the screwdriver handle with a hammer. The impacts will help to break up any bonds in the threads - or between the screw head and the trigger guard - whether by rust or fouling. "Occasionally", applying torque in the direction of tightening the screw will accomplish the same thing. After that, the tapping and torquing may just get it out. The most important factor is Kroil and time. Put it away for a week or two, dribbling a few drops every other day or so.

Have not tried this, but mixing Kroil and Methylene Chloride (Dichloromethane) might (I said might) be a good solution. The Methylene Chloride is extremely thin and has potent solvent properties. It might allow the Kroil to creep in that much quicker. It evaporates very quickly. All the usual chemical handling caveats apply, even though it is used to de-caffeinate coffee and tea. Go figure!
 
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Interestingly, Kroil did not perform as well as some other lubricants in a recent youtube test that measured the ability to soak into rusty threads. Liquid Wrench was identified as the superior penetrant in this test.

Vid
 

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Methylene chloride-- Carcinogen! Handle with proper care (but best to avoid). I thought that the companies that decaf coffee used supercritical carbon dioxide these days. Many used to use ethyl acetate (finger nail polish remover) instead of methylene chloride.
 

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khe sanh - Been there, done that. Way back the Japanese assembled their bikes with impact tools driving Phillip head screws. Impact was needed to loosen the screws. Your suggestion may work but, this is a much smaller screw. Also the owner may not have or never used one of those hand held impact tools. I would try this as a last resort, call me Bubba!
 

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khe sanh - Been there, done that. Way back the Japanese assembled their bikes with impact tools driving Phillip head screws. Impact was needed to loosen the screws. Your suggestion may work but, this is a much smaller screw. Also the owner may not have or never used one of those hand held impact tools. I would try this as a last resort, call me Bubba!
I didn't suggest it poster # 3 did calling it a "driving screwdriver".
I was simply stating the correct name for the tool.
 

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Pardon me, I thought you were referring to the tool that is used on motorcycles. And I thought poster #3 was referring to the lighter impact screwdrivers like the Craftsman.

Your post brought back memories of all the Honda’s I had.
 

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This is on an old artillery, so I'm assuming it may be a bit of rust. It's the screw closest to the barrel. All the other trigger guard and backstrap screws come out fine. Looks like the bolt, trigger, and hammer screws will come out too. Just not that one TG screw. I don't want to crank on the screwdriver too hard for fear of damaging the screw. One gentleman suggested I take the cylinder out, set the gun upright, and drip a few drops of Evaporust in the hole that's drilled through into the frame. This gun has no original blue finish so that's not a worry. He also suggested I could try some Kroil in that hole over night. His final suggestion was purchase a small torch and heat it up a bit till the oil starts smoking but I've never used a torch and I'm worried about damaging the patina finish.

Any thoughts on how to proceed?
I need to first ask - is the screw stuck in the frame, or in the trigger guard? Take the rear TG screws out and rotate the TG on the front TG screw. If the screw head isn't moving relative to the TG, then it is stuck in the TG.

If it is stuck in the frame, apply kroil inside that frame, place a good hollow ground screw driver in the crew slot and tap with a hammer. Just tap, don't hit real hard - because the head can expand during repeated blows, leaving the screw head stuck in the TG.

Next, do not use a wedge type common screw driver. But place a hollow ground screw driver in that screw slot and try to turn left. If it doesn't budge, wrap some rag around that screw driver handle and try to turn left again (this will increase the torque).

If that screw slot is buggered to the point that you don't want to turn left. Fine. I learned long ago that turning right in this situation may make a huge difference. If you can get it to turn right just a little, then maybe it will turn left with less torque. Work it back and forth applying kroil -- and just maybe it will come out.

DRILL OUT ONLY AS A LAST RESORT. Only the head must be removed.
 

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Try the Kroil or ATF/Acetone first for a few days, maybe up to a week.
You could apply some torque to the screw and tap the handle of the screwdriver.
Heat the shaft of the screwdriver with a small torch and let the heat transfer to the screw.
As a next to last resort, if you have a drill press, chuck up the correct driver bit, clamp the gun firmly in place on the table, apply enough pressure to insure the driver bit doesn't slip and try turning the chuck to remove the screw.
All good ideas! Also with the kroil in place, try turning the screw left and then right. Back and forth. The idea is that this action might work the kroil deeper into the screw threads. Tap the screwdriver with the blade in the screw slot, then torque the screw left and then right.- back and forth again.
 
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