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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After successfully stripping my Lawman MkIII cylinder (thanks to Dr D) I'm having trouble getting the ejector rod out of the cylinder on my Three Fifty Seven.

I've stripped D frame cylinders many times and that of my Python but I cant get this one loose.

Is the cylinder construction or thread different on the 3-5-7?

If not what do you suggest I do?
 

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YES...IT'S VERY DIFFERENT. STOP.

The older Colt's come apart in a totally different way, and you should not attempt disassembly unless you absolutely HAVE to AND you have the two special tools required to do it.

How to tell whether you have an Old or New extractor rod assembly:
All later models like the Mark III and later will be the New style.
Most models made after about 1972 or so will be New.
If you're not sure, put three empty cases in the chambers and try to unscrew the knurled ejector rod HEAD.
If the head unscrews off the rod, it's an Old style rod assembly.

To disassemble, you have to first remove the knurled ejector rod head by unscrewing it.
Next, you have to unscrew the ejector.
This requires a special tool and removal is RISKY.
While I don't recommend it, some people use a socket from a socket set that will fit over the ratchet lugs on the ejector to unscrew it.

Here's the problem with removing the ejector: These are screwed on at the factory, then staked in place to prevent them from coming loose.
This usually slightly distorts the threads on the rod, and when you attempt to screw it back on the distorted threads can cause the ejector to screw on slightly cross threaded. This leaves the ejector slightly tilted on the rod, and the cylinder will no longer close or will bind badly.
I usually used a threading die to chase the rod threads to insure no reassembly problems.
If the distorted threads are more than just slightly distorted it's virtually impossible to get the ejector back on straight no matter how careful you are.
It may be possible to use a triangular Swiss high quality SHARP needle file to hand tile the top threads slightly to make the threads more uniform, but most hardware needle fines are not sharp enough. You need the type of Swiss files a watchmaker uses.

The next problem is disassembling the ejector rod and spring from the crane.
You CANNOT do this without a special tubular spanner wrench that will allow unscrewing the ejector rod spring bushing from the crane.

You can buy the wrench from Brownell's and they sell a combination wrench that has an ejector wrench cut. You can make your own fitted ejector wrench by hand filing a hexagonal hole in some steel plate.

Again, unless you just HAVE to disassemble the cylinder assembly....DON'T. If it's badly fouled you can soak it in solvent, dry and put in lube, or you can pull the crane forward from the cylinder, clean the shaft and lube it, then pull the ejector out of the cylinder and clean and lube it the same way.
Here's the tubular bushing wrench and ejector wrench from Brownell's.

Tool with a hole cut for ejector wrench:

COLT WRENCH | Brownells

Crane bushing wrench:

COLT CRANE BUSHING TOOL | Brownells
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks D! I've STOPPED:)

The gun had a lot of old oil that had turned hard but I've left the cylinder / crane assembly soaking for a day or two.

The rest of the gun was straight forward like other I and D frames.
 
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