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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, first off thanks for being so willing to help me with all of my newbie questions I post on here. My generation seems to laugh off the idea of reloading and revolvers, or firearms and self sufficiency for that matter! I appreciate ya'll being so free in sharing your knowledge.

I have a older Colt Cobra that I would like to practice with. I want to keep the loads pretty light as I don't want to cause unnecessary wear and I figure learning to be accurate with a small light revolver will be a challenge even with low recoiling rounds. So far I have only shot 158grn LSWC's with a charge of 4.2 grains of Unique.

I've inherited some 125grn LSWCs and a couple pounds of Power Pistol and Universal that I'd like to use. Hodgdon has a 125grn LNRFP load with a starting charge of 4.3 grains of Universal, while Alliant only has data for 158 grain lead bullets.

Any other specific powders or bullet types that I should consider?

Thanks again!

-Nate
 

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LET ME ASK YOU : HOW many current loading manuals do you own ?? There are HUNDREDS of 38SPL load recipes in almost all of those books for all the bullet weights invented since Moses was a Corporal. Those books are a damnsite more valuable than anything---ANYTHING !!!---YOU ASK FOR OR READ ABOUT ON THE INTERNET, SIR !
 

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For almost all my target practice I use -2.9 to 3.0 grains of red dot powder, 148 grain hollow base wadcutter and cci 500 primers (you can use other small pistol primers if you want).

I have been loading and shooting these for 40 years or so. They are an extremely accurate load especially for a snub revolver. The hollow base expands and I think catches the little bit of rifling in a snub a little better than regular wadcutters. I have shot regular wadccutters,bevel base wadcutters,semiwadcutters but they just are not typically as accurate as my load with the hollow base wadcutters.in fact I don't even load bevel base wadcutters anymore as the accuracy is terrible.

I shoot the wadcutters in all my 38 special revolvers and 357 mag revolvers. They punch a nice round hole in the paper and make a real tight group,and don't punish the gun.
I shoot them in my Cobras,Agents, Detective specials,S&W model 36's and model 60 and in the charter arms undercover snubbie. They shoot good in all of them.

Red Dot is pretty cheap also(relatively speaking).

I think it was in the old Speer manual where it recommended this load for max. accuracy

This reminds me I've got to load some more I am down to less than 500 rounds now.

Also this load is not a screaming hot load so it wont hurt your Cobra at all. It is a mild load but it could be used for self defense,especially if you lived in some City apartment where you wouldn't want it to go clear through someone and on through sheetrock walls and into someone else's apartment
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wil Terry- You're absolutely right and I'm working on building my collection of loading manuals. So far I own 5 and I realize that is a very meager amount. I certainly don't want to rely on the internet as a good resource for this information. I was looking for advice from people with experience with my particular firearm as I'm pretty much on my own in this learning process. Thanks for the advice.

Capstan- Thanks for the input. I've got a decent amount of CCI 500 primers and will get my hands on some wadcutters and Red Dot.
 

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My favorite Load for .38 Special, is a nice soft Lead Bullet of about 158 Grains, over all the 3 F Black Powder I can compress under the Bullet.

This ( done correctly and with right Lube ) sill put a smile on your face every time.

Good velocities, wonderful report, nice solid recoil.
 

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Power Pistol is a good powder for the .38spl. I use it for all semi-auto rounds and .38spl. When it comes to loading for my magnums, .357 & .44, I switch over to 2400. Those are the only two powders I use. Also I don't shoot anything without a jacket through my Colts. To avoid leading and excessive cleaning that puts wear on the gun. But that is just me.

If I were you, I would do a little research and find some good recipes and use up all that Power Pistol you got. Have fun doing it!
 

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Seems as though you already have most of what you need.
Load data and manuals are everywhere. Read up.
Definitely use the 148gr. HBWC. It has proven (to me, anyway) to be the bullet most likely to shoot throught the same hole, again & again.
And with a suitably light but sufficient charge, you will extend the life of your equipment by a great margin.
Limit full power factory loads for occaisional use in training, and for genuine social occaisions.
Don't hot load any of it, don't run too light a bullet, be sure you have the best size for your bore, and don't run any +Ps.
You revolver should outlast you and be a decent handgun for the next guy down the line.
 

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Don't listen to J-bullet shooters tell you there's something wrong with lead bullets,"they'll load your barrel up with lead and wear your gun out mining lead out".Pure poppycock,shooting j-bullets WILL wear your gun out faster mining hard copper and increased pressures. Load lead bullets according to their composition and zero lead in the barrel and it will outlast you and your kids.
 

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Don't listen to J-bullet shooters tell you there's something wrong with lead bullets,"they'll load your barrel up with lead and wear your gun out mining lead out".Pure poppycock,shooting j-bullets WILL wear your gun out faster mining hard copper and increased pressures. Load lead bullets according to their composition and zero lead in the barrel and it will outlast you and your kids.

Yuppers!


Pure, soft, Barrel-friendly Lead, is the best for any older Gun.

I know of no need or sensible purpose for using any 'hard' Alloys of Lead, ( vis a vie, pure Lead ) unless one is into the upper range of FPS enjoyed by some of the Magnum Cartridges ( ie: over 1,600 FPS ).

Right Bullet size for the Barrel ( and proper Cylinder Bore size in relation to Barrel Bore ) and, one will never have any 'Leading'.

Right Bullet Lube, of course is a "plus".
 

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I use my cast bullets thru all my hand guns. My alloy will test at BHN 8-10, using my Cabin Tree test apparatus. I can run them at full bore thru my Troopers and Pythons and I can run them at 750-800 for my OM's. Relatively soft works best. Been doing it that way since I was introduced to it in 1956.
 
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