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It looks like pitting to me. Buy some 357 ammo with jacketed bullets and go shooting clean up afterwards and take another look. If it's pitting it will still be there. That might explain the $600 price tag. Looking at the other pics I can see it's refinished with what I don't know. Might want to have a good gunsmith check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well underneath the S/N near the cylinder i got what looks more like a 5. Underneath the grips I got a "N" in the center of the bottom. SAT & INS haphazardly stamped near the bottom corner.

So nickel i suppose.
 

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Well underneath the S/N near the cylinder i got what looks more like a 5. Underneath the grips I got a "N" in the center of the bottom. SAT & INS haphazardly stamped near the bottom corner.

So nickel i suppose.
An "N" under the grips would indicate a nickel gun, but it sure doesn't look like nickel. I suspect that this was a rusted gun that was sprayed with Cerakote or Duracoat to look better.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
An "N" under the grips would indicate a nickel gun, but it sure doesn't look like nickel. I suspect that this was a rusted gun that was sprayed with Cerakote or Duracoat to look better.
Yeah, more than likely. It was my grandpa's beforehand. He's had it for 20 years or so. So, previous owner probably done something or another.

Oh well, lessons learned. If it shoots okay it's alright.
 

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"INS" is an inspection stamp commonly used on Colt revolvers in the 60's and 70's era.
I don't recall ever seeing a "SAT" stamp on a Colt.

Given your stated production date of 1975 and the non-blued front sight and sight pins, this is either a plated gun or it's coated with something like Lauer Durakote or Cerakote.
In the full size profile there appear to be "streaks" in the finish, possible scratches or worn areas??
The light pitting on the front of the frame also indicates a carbon steel gun because while stainless steel WILL rust, it doesn't look like that.

To address the rust or whatever it is in the bore...... First find out what it really is......

DO NOT TRY TO "SHOOT THE LEAD OR RUST OUT" BY FIRING JACKETED BULLETS.
This can destroy the barrel by blowing a ring or bulge in it.
People do this for years and get away with it, then one day they're shocked to see a ring or bulge in the bore after shooting a different lead or shooting more then usual.

My first step would be to soak the bore with Kroil or another good penetrating fluid and let soak a day or two so it can infiltrate under leading, or soften rust.
Then, use a new bronze .38-.357 bore brush to scrub the bore.
Using a larger caliber bore brush really doesn't work very well because the bristles just flex and bend out of the way.
Run the brush all the way through and back out. DO NOT push the brush part way through and try to pull it back, that just ruins the brush and can get it stuck in the barrel.
About 10 to 15 passes should be enough to indicate what's in there.
Run a couple of dry patches through so you can see what's what.
If it's leading this will remove enough of it so you can see it coming off, leaving a clean bore where it was.

If it looks like leading a great tool to completely clean the bore and the forcing cone at the rear is a Lewis Lead Remover Kit from Brownell's.
This is a special tool that pulls leading out by using a rubber tip and a brass screen.
Included in the kit is a special tip that is used with a brass screen to cut leading and carbon fouling off the critical forcing cone.
All the old revolve shooters had a Lewis Kit and it cleans the bore with no chance of damaging it.

If it's leading this will remove it.
If not, stronger methods may be needed.
If it's actually rust a stainless steel bore brush will remove what can be removed, but there will be pitting which cannot be removed or "fixed".
Note that this is the ONLY time you should ever use a stainless steel brush in a barrel or chamber. Stainless can do damage to the bore and is used only when you don't have anything to loose.
Apply plenty of something like CLP Breakfree to lubricate the brush and help soften and lift the rust.
I'd recommend no more then 20 passes through. That will remove what can be removed if it's rust. More brushing will likely not help and will do at least some damage to the bore.

Under NO circumstances EVER spin a brush of any kind in a rifled bore with a drill.
That is a valid cleaning technique when used on smooth bore shotgun barrels but will absolutely destroy a rifled barrel.

If it is rust, after brushing, you can use JB Bore Paste Cleaner or JB Bore Brite to smooth and bring out what polish can be obtained.
Buy this from Brownell's.

As for the finish on the gun.
Unless it is stainless it will be either a plated finish, a paint type finish, or it could even be bare metal that someone bead blasted to strip the bluing off.
If it's bare metal a wipe with 90% alcohol to degrease followed by a drop of cold blue will instantly tell you.

If it's a paint type finish like Lauer Durakote, Cerakote, or another of these types of finishes you can detect it by removing the grips and GENTLY scraping the side of the grip frame where the grips cover it.
If it's a paint type finish it will scrap off in small peels, just like scraping paint off any metal object.

If it's a plated finish it will be either an electroless nickel or hard chrome.
To detect which, simply compare the gun with a stainless steel kitchen knife or spoon.
Stainless steel has a "white" color.
Electroless Nickel has the typical amber or "yellow" tint of nickel.
Hard chrome has a slight "blue" tint that looks different then stainless.
 

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To me, this Python appears to be hard chrome plated. Look at this 1911 which was hard chrome plated. The finish on this 1911 and the Python look very similar, if not identical.

 

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The original hard chrome that began to be offered for guns in the 70's was a satin pearl-gray with an "orange peel" bead blasted finish.
In appearance this is a satin, very smooth finish that doesn't have the roughness of standard bead blasting, and has a slight shine that doesn't reflect much light, but isn't a dead flat finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Well, I just shot it. Still pretty damn accurate. But didn't get what's in the barrel out. I ordered some of the stuff y'all suggested and will give it a try.
All in all, i'm not in it for the pristine collectors side of things, as long as it shoots well and looks alright. Right? ^^

However, on the off chance i'd want to swap out barrels and refinish it to nickel (if thats even possible) who do y'all recommend?
 

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That thing will clean up OK and will be a fine shooter.
Regardless of what the finish is, it is still a Python, ad you got it as cheap as one can be gotten.
Your LGS should have a Lewis Lead remover kit. It is the definitive solution to a leaded revolver.
Don't ask me how I know.......
Keep that badboy the way it is and blast the tits off it.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yeah, generally what i'm thinking. Can't go wrong with the price i got it for. I'll probably keep it for another few decades and no telling how much it'll be then.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks all, i've gotten more help then I thought I would when I made the thread. Ordered most of what y'all suggested, figure i'd use it down the road anyways.
 

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For a barrel change our go-to guy is Frank Glenn.
He's one of the few Colt qualified Master pistolsmiths still around.

Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ

First, you need to find a usable barrel. Places to look are Ebay and Gunbroker.com.
Gun Parts Corp has only 8 inch barrels left:

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/Colt-33188/Revolvers-35751/PythonEIFrame-36588.htm

Note that you MUST have a barrel with TWO pins in the front sight. Colt changed the threads in the early 90's and these are identified by a single front sight pin.

For a bright nickel plate refinish, here's the suppliers that are known to do quality work:

PYTHON. Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts
Cogan is the top choice.

Elite Custom Plating --  Re-Finishing, Custom Work, Competition Guns

Firearms Plating: Custom Metal Finishing: Reliable Electroplating: Chartley, MA

Ford's Custom Gun Refinishing | Gun Shop Crystal River

Ford's DID have an excellent reputation for quality bluing and plating work, but after some really bad reports we no longer recommend them until we find out whether the bad jobs were an anomaly or a permanent decline in workmanship.
 

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Looks like leading to me. Shoot some jacketed bullets. Then use some Ballistol along with a Lewis Lead remover. If you keep using Ballistol as a bore cleaner it will help keep leading down. Be careful when using a cleaning rod at the muzzle end. Don't get wild as it will damage the crown of the barrel. I use a stainless steel rod which is harder than an Aluminum rod. Aluminum rods can damage the muzzle almost like a file would! JMHO fwiw
 
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