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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a lot of great advice, answers here regarding the 1877 Colt, from screw thread taps, barrel thread taps, grips, to cylinder pins. Now it's time to get started with the project.

Wood Grey Gas Gun accessory Gun barrel


This barrel is from a modern Colt target revolver, it has a lot more steel than usual a .32 caliber.



Air gun Wood Revolver Trigger Gun barrel


I just finished up hand fitting the loading gate. The backstrap needed adjusting also, the trigger guard didn't have any issues. I am getting the taps in from England so I can chase all of the threads on firearm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The hammer was a total different issue, none that were new could be sourced. I did find a used hammer with excellent notches. the hammers usually have wear and they are junk.

Wood Flooring Electric blue Font Pattern

Wood Electric blue Carmine Baby & toddler clothing Flooring

Brown Wood Sleeve Grey Pattern

Gesture Finger Thumb Creative arts Toy

As you can see this is a good specimen for my project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I'm still trying to source wooden grips, it is going to be a bit of a challenge.

The cylinder and pin are a separate issue, I need to determine the wear on the pin areas and if need be have a special pin made where I can tune the frame, cylinder and pin together and have one stable cylinder without any wobble, end play issues.
 

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I've got a lot of great advice, answers here regarding the 1877 Colt, from screw thread taps, barrel thread taps, grips, to cylinder pins. Now it's time to get started with the project.

View attachment 756910

This barrel is from a modern Colt target revolver, it has a lot more steel than usual a .32 caliber.



View attachment 756912

I just finished up hand fitting the loading gate. The backstrap needed adjusting also, the trigger guard didn't have any issues. I am getting the taps in from England so I can chase all of the threads on firearm.
Is that a Police Positive barrel? I know that the threads are the same. Are you making a 32 Colt?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have experience with the revolver hammers and that is what I was looking for a unmolested hammer. I have several old revolvers and I don't do anything with the notches, just clean, service the burrs and that's it. :)

The barrel is a Colt .32 and I am building it around a .32. I have several custom built firearms in my armory and I am building a bad ass lightning made to work and NOT sit in the house looking pretty.

My son is a excellent CNC operator, he can build me anything I need. I am going to have him build me several pieces for this Colt. It may look like a duck quack like a duck, but it ain't no duck.

I am having it modern blued, my finisher and I have been brainstorming the finishes.
 

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I have experience with the revolver hammers and that is what I was looking for a unmolested hammer. I have several old revolvers and I don't do anything with the notches, just clean, service the burrs and that's it. :)

The barrel is a Colt .32 and I am building it around a .32. I have several custom built firearms in my armory and I am building a bad ass lightning made to work and NOT sit in the house looking pretty.

My son is a excellent CNC operator, he can build me anything I need. I am going to have him build me several pieces for this Colt. It may look like a duck quack like a duck, but it ain't no duck.

I am having it modern blued, my finisher and I have been brainstorming the finishes.
So are you planning to make a cylinder, or line the chambers in a 38 or 41 cylinder? Looks like an interesting project.

Among the few Colt M1877 DA's shipped in 1908 or 1909, some have altered Police Positive barrels. They actually measure 4-1/4", although a Colt letter will say they are 4-1/2". Colt also used Officers Model barrels on these last Colt M1877 DA's. Notice the front sight on this one, SN166226.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My son will fabricate stainless steel sleeves for the cylinders reducing the caliber to a .32acp. The .32acp is about as close to a .38 colt round from 1877. This way it will be safe to use, without blowing up, using today's .38 round is way too powerful for the 1877.

What the hell, if I'm wrong what can go wrong. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

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Your project looks very interesting to me. But I have a suggestion :
If you want to make a "reliable shooter" more than a "exact copy" of an original one, may be you should consider modifying some parts of the mecchanism, for example the springs.
Here is a link to a little study I made to replace the 77's fragile springs with wire springs :
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Your project looks very interesting to me. But I have a suggestion :
If you want to make a "reliable shooter" more than a "exact copy" of an original one, may be you should consider modifying some parts of the mecchanism, for example the springs.
Here is a link to a little study I made to replace the 77's fragile springs with wire springs :

Awesome idea I will start reading about it. :) 💡
I'm all for ideas if you have any suggestions brainstorming is great!
 

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Couple of points. You can replace the trigger stud on the triggers which is the typical problem area. The hard part will be making or finding the pins for the strut and roll.

You want to manufacture a tooth or trigger strut catch which is on the right side of the hammer. Yours is missing, you can see the hole. This keeps the trigger strut from slipping out of the notches in the hammer. It won't happen all the time, but I can happen.

I see you found Popperts and Jack's Fist, but Wisners manufacturers the cylinder stop and trigger studs that Jack's sells and it cheaper. If you never fitted a cylinder stop you may want to purchase two or three. To much metal removed will make it useless. They are also wide, so you have to remove metal that will rub against the trigger.

Lever Action Bill rewelded my SAA hammer, I wish someone out there with the ability could reweld the 1877 hammers and bring them back to spec.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Couple of points. You can replace the trigger stud on the triggers which is the typical problem area. The hard part will be making or finding the pins for the strut and roll.

You want to manufacture a tooth or trigger strut catch which is on the right side of the hammer. Yours is missing, you can see the hole. This keeps the trigger strut from slipping out of the notches in the hammer. It won't happen all the time, but I can happen.

I see you found Popperts and Jack's Fist, but Wisners manufacturers the cylinder stop and trigger studs that Jack's sells and it cheaper. If you never fitted a cylinder stop you may want to purchase two or three. To much metal removed will make it useless. They are also wide, so you have to remove metal that will rub against the trigger.

Lever Action Bill rewelded my SAA hammer, I wish someone out there with the ability could reweld the 1877 hammers and bring them back to spec.


Excellent idea you have. 😃
 

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So are you planning to make a cylinder, or line the chambers in a 38 or 41 cylinder? Looks like an interesting project.

Among the few Colt M1877 DA's shipped in 1908 or 1909, some have altered Police Positive barrels. They actually measure 4-1/4", although a Colt letter will say they are 4-1/2". Colt also used Officers Model barrels on these last Colt M1877 DA's. Notice the front sight on this one, SN166226.
I have one of the barrels you mentioned in 6" length in .38 LC (bottom). I picked the barrel up on Ebay and installed it on a later model mismatched frame, and started to develop very light smokeless loads for it.

Revolver Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have one of the barrels you mentioned in 6" length in .38 LC (bottom). I picked the barrel up on Ebay and installed it on a later model mismatched frame, and started to develop very light smokeless loads for it.

View attachment 757179
.32acp is a good round for me, I think that I can be confident in using the firearm without any worries of the revolver becoming a hand grenade.
I'm going to send it down to my Bluing technician who is a artist in firearm finishes. I'm going to put a modern bluing finish on it. No nickel finish, the barrel has been spun down removing everything so now it is slick as snot.

How did you attach a stud to the barrel for your ejector?
 
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