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Ok I decided to pitch the first barrel and pick up a SAA .32 barrel and recut the threads, this would preserve the lettering, and since it doesn't have a revolver designation it would be perfect. :) View attachment 757429


View attachment 757430

View attachment 757431

Kinda like a mad scientist at work. :ROFLMAO:
Since the entire outside diameter of a SA barrel is larger, you would have to turn down the breech end, re--thread and then turn down and taper the entire length of the barrel circumference in order to have the ejector rod housing line up properly with the boss on the 1877 frame. You would be better off finding a .32-20 barrel from a New Army Model and modifying. The threads would be the same as an 1877 and the outside diameter should be the same as well. Just add the stud for the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I have been talking to my son regarding the SAA barrel.
First of all I am going to send him the SAA barrel where he's going to put it on a computer program lathe and then it will be re-cut to configured to the 1877 design. The barrel is going to be the same size as the 1877, no taper, the threads are going to be cut just like the 1877.

I wish I had the correct thread information about the 1877, pitch, angle, etc. The newer colt barrels that I have are 32tpi, screwing in about 3/4 of the way before becoming tight and I want to have zero resistance until it snugs up against the frame.

And that's barrel my project from hell. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: When I was first studying on the 1877 it said the .32 barrels were made, so I thought that would be easy peasy in getting a barrel for the project, I was unaware that the .32 barrels were impossible to purchase, and the cost factor for the barrel was through the roof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
There's no way to fit a SAA barrel to a 77 frame. The previous colt 32 barrel was much better. Why did you change your mind ? Anyway, the bigger problem you'll encounter in your project is not to find a 32 barell, nor to adapt the cylinder to a new caliber or find wooden grips, but it will be to rebuild a working revolver and it is the first thing you should think about.
If you started from a complete lightning which works well, then modifying it to .32 cal would be quite easy to do.
You see that I'm just bat shit crazy, I enjoy a challenge and this should be quite a interesting project.
Seriously, I just hate to destroy any firearm that is still functioning, serial numbers are matching, etc.

I've built several firearms, my favorite is my Remington rolling block rifle, many parts are from the 1800's, and the barrel and receiver are from today, the stock and Forend are custom, and it's one beautiful 45-70. It would probably be able to put a hole through and through most large animals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I'm trying to source a .38 cylinder next, it's another adventure that I need to look at.
Wood Rectangle Ruler Font Jewellery


I just wish that the .32 cylinders we're readily available for a reasonable price. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
I'm looking at the two pins for the trigger, are they needing to be hardened?
What do we have for ideas? This is a example of the trigger pins, I have a new trigger assembly.

1. trigger roll pin and 2. trigger strut pin


Hand tool Tool Pliers Diagonal pliers Nipper
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
My son is manufacturing the cylinder adapter, and I've explained to him the thickness issue letting him know what we can use for the difference.I'm probably going to ream out the cylinders for the sleeves using a step method so the sleeves will have a stop to them.

You'd better find a .41cal cylinder (Thunderer) otherwise your sleeves will be too thin and fragile (from 38 to 32 the thickness would be about 0.5mm only)
 
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