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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Well, I'm working on getting it put together just like Johnny Cash one peace at a time. I finally manufactured a bull barrel for it. I took a .32 SAA barrel and defiled it.
Wood Tool Metal Gun accessory Auto part


I was able to fit the ejector onto the barrel. A really nice fit.

Wood Door Revolver Gun accessory Tool


I'm 100% sure I got this correct, the ejector tube is flush inside of the revolver frame, so it dictates where it goes on the barrel.

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I received the cylinder today. Their is not much material to work with.

That's the update, I'm working on the parts fitting, everything is hand fitted, nothing is just a drop in and go. I think I am going to do much better timing the action with all new parts except for the hammer, than having old warn parts to deal with. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
FYI
Just for future reference on a Colt revolver barrel die that will work here it is, It's the right size. It's great for cleaning up the threads. My son looked at the photo of the receiver and barrel, the info from here and helped me find it.


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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Today I'm working on fit and finish, getting the new parts to function properly before I start tuning it up. Everything is going smoothly, the barrel is set in place, the cylinder need to be adjusted, to much play towards the front and I am thinking about a bushing of some sorts.

Revolver Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel


Revolver Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel


Revolver Air gun Trigger Wood Gun barrel




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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
What are you going to do for a finish on this? Blue?
Modern dark bluing, since its not a "original" 1877 but CUSTOM, I'm going to sandblast the firearm to get a uniformed look before bluing, remove any nickel, everything is blued, down to the smallest nut.

And the modern bluing will look awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
I need some input on the cylinder end play and how others tighten it up.
I need to figure out the ejector, is their another ejector tube that will fit up in the frame?

💡 💡💡💡
 

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The cylinder and the frame were fitted together at the factory and I think it is very difficult to fit a cylinder into a frame when they come without the right dimensions.
3 dimensions must be respected:
  • no axial play with both the rachet and the front stud touching the frame (fitting the cylinder stud)
  • the space required for the rim of cartridges between the cylinder and the frame (very difficult to modify)
  • the gap between the front of the cylinder and the face of the barrel (by fitting the barrel)
The dimensions of frames, cylinders and other parts may vary from one 1877 to another, if you are lucky they can be compatibles...

I don't understand your question concerning the ejector ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
The cylinder and the frame were fitted together at the factory and I think it is very difficult to fit a cylinder into a frame when they come without the right dimensions.
3 dimensions must be respected:
  • no axial play with both the rachet and the front stud touching the frame (fitting the cylinder stud)
  • the space required for the rim of cartridges between the cylinder and the frame (very difficult to modify)
  • the gap between the front of the cylinder and the face of the barrel (by fitting the barrel)
The dimensions of frames, cylinders and other parts may vary from one 1877 to another, if you are lucky they can be compatibles...

I don't understand your question concerning the ejector ?
This is a custom builder, everything is hand fit, everything inside of the frame is new, the only old parts are: frame, cylinder, hammer, trigger guard, rear strap, barrel. And if they made the hammer, I buy a new one.

The cylinder, frame is tight with the cylinder pin, no issues with that.
The end play between the front of the cylinder and the frame, is to much I need to remove it. See photo.
The rear of the cylinder is not a issue since I am hand fitting new parts into the frame, getting the rear cylinder close to the stop and hand is really important for a successful project..

So far:
I'm reading a book about the end play and a bushing being installed on the cylinder to remove the end play is one idea.
Drilling a pilot hole down inside of the cylinder then putting a bushing inside is one feasible option.
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On the modern revolvers they have shims which works excellent for end play, I have a assortment of them however it will not work in this application, however a bushing would be a good.

This has to be accomplished first before I start timing the action or nothing will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
You'd better find a .41cal cylinder (Thunderer) otherwise your sleeves will be too thin and fragile (from 38 to 32 the thickness would be about 0.5mm only)
My son said that he was going to make it as per our first idea, and if he has any issues he will step up the thickness. Once it's in place, its perminate, using stainless steel will make things more stronger. If I have to remove some metal from the cylinders that's fine also for a step.

My son uses computers to manufacture parts for NASA, airplane manufacturers, some of the high end quality work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I don't like the ejector tube it's not what I want. I'm looking for a ejector tube that's more stream lined, straight forward to remove the brass.
Wood Door Revolver Gun accessory Tool


This would work, however it's not my first choice.
The angle is correct, I am 100% level with the frame all around inside and outside. If I was to level it with the barrel a gap would appear in the frame, also the projection is correct for the loading gate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
It looks like your new barrel has a cylindric shape. The original barrel is tapered. The ejector's shape is designed for a tapered barrel.
Exactly it's a bull barrel. So maybe the SAA may work? Their has to be a way to find one that's custom people do this all of the time.

I haven't given up yet, a lot of work is still going on, I have been cleaning the parts, until I am 100% certain everything is exact, it's not getting blued.

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