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... I tried and now the base pin fit is a little tight.Gil.
I found that in my attempts with non-wood against the bushing, that I was deforming the end of it where the pressure was exerted. Base-pin then did get too tight. Experimenting, I was able to open the end a bit with a punch, and then sanded it smooth.

Would one of you who knows more about base-pins and bushings give your ideas here?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Gil, do you have Kroil?
Hello.

I don't think I have seen any around here, but they ought to have something similar. They have WD40, so Kroil, why not?! Good idea on the soaking thanks!

Gil

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk
 

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A quick trick for removing a tight base pin bushing is to insert the base pin from rear end of the bushing and give it a good rap with a hard plastic or brass hammer. If it's still stuck,the automatic transmission fluid and acetone solution that Cascades suggested is in fact THE best penetrating solution; soak it overnight and try again in the morning.

Best regards,
 

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I'd keep WD40 away from all guns. Plenty of us out there who used to use it, but learned to not use it.

Reverse the base-pin and whack! Now, that makes sense. Thank you!
 

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Good to see you making headway back to proper function. Video very good. My 44-40 was a basket case in the base pin. New bushing and pin solved it problems IMG_20170314_094203_kindlephoto-60593077.jpg these are my 40's they were finish enhanced before me so no original finish left just re-blue
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Trouble!

Well, it looks like I ran into some trouble and might have to order a new hand. I am trying to analyze the problem this morning... Deburred the edges of the hand in case something catches...
Here are the three first videos. Check #3, especially the last two minutes.
Update: Still not working. Something is preventing the hammer from going all the way back when the cylinder is in. No problem when it's out. The bolt drops too early even though I have not touched the tine's length. I'm at a loss. It's the most expensive object I own and I can't get it to work... Depressing...

https://youtu.be/c2nPyo1sKQs
https://youtu.be/sjwFUo00mYE
https://youtu.be/1mwlXVelE30

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Gil.
 

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Gil,
Chin up, Sir; might not be the hand. DON'T TAKE MY ADVICE--I only know that when I was attempting to fit a bolt on a 1st Gen. a while back, the contours or length of the bolt's leg catching on the Cam were causing the hammer to not cock. Maybe your difficulty?

But DON'T TAKE MY ADVICE on repairs, except to be patient and wait for experts' advice.

I'm learning from your videos; thank you for your work and for sharing them.
 

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Hi There,

I have enjoyed your videos very much. I will offer a couple
of instructions that may be of some help.

First, one shouldn't drag a file backward over the object
being filed. This will dull the file prematurely.

Second, using Dykem® layout fluid can show you
where the hand is making contact with the ratchet.
The dark blue fluid is used on the surface so that
when a line is scribed into the surface, the bright
metal exposed will have a high contrast and easy
to see. Interference between two parts will be
exposed because the contact will remove the blue
where they touch and bright metal will be visible.

Keep at it and keep us informed.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks guys.
the contours or length of the bolt's leg catching on the Cam were causing the hammer to not cock. Maybe your difficulty?
You might be right about that. I should not have had to file the top hand so short... I will get to the bottom of it.
using Dykem® layout fluid can show you where the hand is making contact with the ratchet.
Definitely, I need to get some of that stuff. Black marker isn't working for that purpose.
What worries me most now is that my hand is probably way too short. That's another $100 gone up in smoke. One thing's for sure, once this revolver works, I'll never get rid of it! Way too many efforts put into it! It probably will be a while before video #4...
Gil.
 

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Hi There,

Take heart my friend. Experience is valuable and getting
your SAA working properly, by your own hand is priceless!

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
 

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Hello Gil, I have been following along and would like to make a suggestion. Any business that sells machine tools like drills, taps, dies, reamers, etc. should handle lay out fluid (Dykem), Prussian blue (blue paste), and other products for fitting metal parts. I like to use an old oil lamp with the wick turned low enough to smoke. I then run the part through the smoke until there is coating of black soot. This may show where parts are binding.

I am well aware of your fear of sending your parts to the Master (Jim Martin). You have the best book. Don’t give up. If you can find a shop that does micro tig welding they should be able to add some metal that you took off.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thank you Sam, yes, I will get Dykem blue... I'm still scratching my head as to what could prevent the cylinder from turning until the hand is too short and skips on the ratchet...

Gil.
 

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Gil - If you can get your hands on a “Colt SA Revolvers” by Jerry Kuhnhausen, you will save yourself some money. You may even realize that the Colt SAA is more complicated than it appears. It also helps the novice to have parts that have been removed from a properly working Colt. For instance, your hammer may look to be correct, but when placed on top of a “good” unit you can see discrepancies. Don’t lose hope and don’t give up the ship.
 

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Gil,
On your last video I think I noticed something. If you watch the bottom of the cylinder the bolt is not disengaging as soon as you pull the hammer back. I believe it should start to move as soon as the hammer is pulled back?
Check video 3:33-3:45
This would indicate a hammer cam/bolt adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yes! I did notice that and thought about it for a while... I think what's happening is that my bolt is too tall. The bolt tines do not touch the hammer cam when the hammer is at rest forward. So when I pull the hammer, the bolt isn't retracted soon enough and the hand can't turn the cylinder. Of course, if I keep shortening the hand the cylinder won't be forced to turn before the hand finally retracts... But by that time the hand is too short to turn the cylinder reliably. So I will try again, but I will reduce the height of the bolt first. I certainly will need Dykem blue for that, to put in the cylinder notches and verify that the hand gets to the bottom.

Gil.
 

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Gil,
Not sure that is your best chess move. I would consult with Jim about this issue first. You already found out shortening the hand or bolt doesn’t solve the issue. Just sayin’
 
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