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Just for the collective knowledge, cold blue works well as a replacement for Dykem.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Hello. Sorry it has been a while. I am getting back to it now! I moved, got a new job, things got a bit hectic, but I will be posting another video hopefully soon. I haven't finished yet, but this time I hope will be the ticket. In the mean time I just got a 1976 Trooper MkIII, but I will post about it in another thread.
Gil.
 

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Congratulations Gil !!!! You should be very, very proud of the progress you've made! Please keep the videos coming as you work towards getting your Colt to function at 100%. I've really enjoyed following you!!

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Thanks Bob! I can't wait to shoot it. I loaded a bunch of black powder cartridges, all ready to go. I hope it won't blow up! I think in 1897 the steel was a bit better.. As long as it indexes well and the chambers are aligned, as they are, it should be no problem. Now if I can find how to make the cylinder go a tiny bit counter-clockwise on half-cock... I am worried about messing up the hand now though...
Gil.

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Thanks Bob! I can't wait to shoot it. I loaded a bunch of black powder cartridges, all ready to go. I hope it won't blow up! I think in 1897 the steel was a bit better.. As long as it indexes well and the chambers are aligned, as they are, it should be no problem. Now if I can find how to make the cylinder go a tiny bit counter-clockwise on half-cock... I am worried about messing up the hand now though...
Gil.

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yes with two $100 hands in the scrap heap already, i can understand your concern! :) give our friend Jim Martin another call. i'm betting he can provide a solution!

keep us posted on your progress and good luck!!!

bob
 
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Discussion Starter #67
Will do thanks!
Gil.

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Hi Gil. I’ve been following your excellent videos of late and want to thank you for them as I myself am trying to learn the inner workings of these wonderful time machines. I wish there were a lot more of them available. I’ve used Jim Martin recently to tune up and convert the caliber of one of my beauties and his work is amazing. I still want to know how to do this myself anyway for my own satisfaction. I wish you the very best as we get through this craziness.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Thank you! Now I have to wait for the end of confinement for the range to re-open!
Gil

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I look forward to your range report. I wish I had discovered this post and videos earlier since I have been learning the same things you have for the last 3 months. Some comments on the things I ran into include; removed stuck cylinder bushing using 1/4" SCHCS with head filed down to clear the bushing bore - put in vise with washers or bench block to clear head of the bushing protecting the cylinder faces and webs. Just like the way we used to change auto u-joints years ago. once it moved flood again with lubricant and continue.
Also on the Smith bolt I noticed that to free the hammer movement I needed to remove material from the middle underside of the left bolt arm/tine since the cam pushed the tines against the frame corner probably to stop bolt movement into frame window - this is covered in Mr Kuhnhausen's book but I never figured out the reason or exactly where on the bottom it was required since the front controlled pickup start and the rear controlled drop. Another problem I had was the right tine tip hit the machined corner behind the bolt cam causing the hammer to rebound from the "fired" stop.
The cylinder rolling back with the hammer not at full cock may be due to the 10 degree bolt angle/trailing edge of the bolt too low at notch edge.
This is obviously a great resource that I wish I had found earlier - Many Thanks to all!
For checking the bolt engagement in the cylinder notches, I found that kids modeling clay gave a nice impression of the bolt head, and was less messy than bluing. Just smear the clay back in the notch and go again.
The chamber not aligning at 1/2 cock is controlled by the hammer position and the top hand length. If you are so inclined, try lengthening one of your other hands by stretching the top hand with a flat bar on solid piece of metal and hammer (I think I have seen it mentioned in the double action section Stickies). I had to do it to an Officer's model HB to get it to carry up following Mr. Kuhnhausens instructions in the DA manual. This would give you some idea which way to go. Measuring the location of the 1/2 cock notch according to the dimensions in the SA manual would require some pretty good equipment.
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Awesome. At first these revolvers look simple, but they are anything-but. The simplicity of the design is there but the different parts interacting can be daunting for a beginner.
Well, here is the last video, part 6, final installment, and yes, shooting!


I will post the six parts in one video later.

Gil.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Hello. Here is the whole video:


Gil

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Discussion Starter #74
Thank you, it took me long enough. I am not sure as to what to do next, have it restored as a shooter, color case hardening and blueing, or leave it as is. Problem is, when I got home to clean the revolver there was already surface rust on it and inside the barrel...
Gil.

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Congratulations and I really enjoyed your documentation efforts. Be sure to clean it several times over the next few days to be sure you get all the black powder and primer residue out of the crevices to prevent rusting.
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Will do, thanks!
Gil

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