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262 Posts
Hondo,
We will have to agree to disagree. When the hammer is at full cock, the bolt in the notch is what holds the cylinder in position. This includes the chamber/ bore alignment as well (snug in the notch, not one particular side). When the hammer falls, you lose the "snug against the notch " because the hand moves down with the hammer. Therefore, the bolt is the only thing holding the cylinder in position. According to first gen. shop manuals, the "handstop" DOES prevent the hand spring and hand from moving past the fully extended travel. The hand, trigger and bolt jammed together is definitely NOT what stops the action in a Colt S.A.A. (but it IS what stops the action in an Italian SA which is what we want to fix ).
The hammer stop screw that I speak of ( no matter where it originated from) does the same thing as the handstop (which is the name of said boss on a hand), it stops the parts from crashing into each other. To wit, many Colts that I have handled that were properly timed, still had whatever the slightest rotational play in the cylinder at rest as it had at full cock with thumb still pulling back on the hammer. That can't happen if there is contact with hand/ratchet. Thus, all my SA's exhibit the same correct traits as mentioned above.
That's why after the hammer is fitted, the first part Colt put in was the hand. The stoping point of the hand dictated the length of the trigger sear. Last is the bolt. (as far as these parts are concerned). With Italian guns, the full cock position is the stopping point. If your gun has "good" timing, just install the stop and you will be fine. If not,the best set up would be a slightly longer trigger sear (get the trigger with the longest sear section if you can compare) and set the stop. then fit the hand to the stop position (should bring the chamber to full battery and NO more !!!). Then fit the bolt and time the bolt (pick up and drop)and you will have and KEEP perfect timing in your revolver.
Dragoon
We will have to agree to disagree. When the hammer is at full cock, the bolt in the notch is what holds the cylinder in position. This includes the chamber/ bore alignment as well (snug in the notch, not one particular side). When the hammer falls, you lose the "snug against the notch " because the hand moves down with the hammer. Therefore, the bolt is the only thing holding the cylinder in position. According to first gen. shop manuals, the "handstop" DOES prevent the hand spring and hand from moving past the fully extended travel. The hand, trigger and bolt jammed together is definitely NOT what stops the action in a Colt S.A.A. (but it IS what stops the action in an Italian SA which is what we want to fix ).
The hammer stop screw that I speak of ( no matter where it originated from) does the same thing as the handstop (which is the name of said boss on a hand), it stops the parts from crashing into each other. To wit, many Colts that I have handled that were properly timed, still had whatever the slightest rotational play in the cylinder at rest as it had at full cock with thumb still pulling back on the hammer. That can't happen if there is contact with hand/ratchet. Thus, all my SA's exhibit the same correct traits as mentioned above.
That's why after the hammer is fitted, the first part Colt put in was the hand. The stoping point of the hand dictated the length of the trigger sear. Last is the bolt. (as far as these parts are concerned). With Italian guns, the full cock position is the stopping point. If your gun has "good" timing, just install the stop and you will be fine. If not,the best set up would be a slightly longer trigger sear (get the trigger with the longest sear section if you can compare) and set the stop. then fit the hand to the stop position (should bring the chamber to full battery and NO more !!!). Then fit the bolt and time the bolt (pick up and drop)and you will have and KEEP perfect timing in your revolver.
Dragoon
