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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am new to this forum. I shoot a 3rd gen Saa in 45.

Last week while shooting (light handloads) at my firing range, the cylinder jammed up and would not rotate.

I found that the ejector rod had snapped at the point where it threads into the ejector thumb piece at the rod head.
This is a separate piece.

OK. I order a new ejector rod from Gun Parts and I install it (simple),now it seems that the ejector rod end that is closest to the cylinder, protrudes just slightly enough into the space of the frame forward of the cylinder and now stops the cylinder from being put back in???

Is there a piece missing here? I took the ejector assembly off and placed the cylinder in first and then put the ejector assembly back, but now I can't get the cylinder out for cleaning!

What the heck am I doing wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you kindly.

Clement
 

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I know nothing about SAAs (but that won't stop me /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) but check your replacement rod carefully against the original. I recently purchased an ejector rod for an OMM from Gun Parts. The threaded portion on which the ejector star/ratchet threads was too long and kept the latch pin from seating thus making the safety mechanism bind, rendering the gun non functional. Also there was either a slight bend or the threads were not concentric causing the star to be slightly tilted, interfering with opening and closing the crane. My point is, it appears they may have some after market parts that are not quite up to snuff. Again, no specific SAA knowledge, just rang a familiar bell. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

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welcome to the forum, since you have no replys i give it a shot. gpc diagram shows only 3 parts: rod head, rod and spring. assuming there is no debris in the tube to hold the rod slightly back and tube is seated correctly. i would compare the new rod for length with the broken one.are they the same length?? is the rod head screwed completly on?? are there any broken pieces/dried crud in the rod head to prevent it screwing completly on. i would remove rod tube and start over, paying close attn to above. reassemble with cylinder out of frame. rod end should rest slightly below flush with the frame. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello,

As you look at your cylinder (I assume you have a SAA), does the tip of the rod protrude slightly into the open frame area where the cylinder is housed?

Thanks,

Clem
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK. You are saying that it is recessed IN THE FRAME and not at all protruding into the open cylinder cavity area where, as you remove or replace the cylinder, the cylinder spacer (base pin opening) passes.

If that is the case then this is a tad too long becasue it definitely protrudes into the open cylinder cavity...only perhaps a 32nd of an inch...but it is very visible to the eye.

I think I can shorten this rod.
 

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Assuming it is all the way screwed into the ejector rod button, I would probably sand / polish the end down (carefully!) and then put a little cold blue on the sanded area. Don't sand too much, you just want it to not protrude into the cylinder window.

Practice on your old one!
 

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yes, slightly below flush. perhaps they are meant to be fitted. you know the old saying better a mile too long than an inch too short. dont forget to smooth the cut end so it doesnt scratch anything.
 
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