This is probably and oddball question, but what the heck. I have never disassembled a revolver. I just watched a pretty good video about disassembling a 1920‘s Police Positive and it seemed fairly straight forward, but I think I might look for an old beater revolver just to practice on before I ever think about disassembling my other Colts. So, if you were looking for an old beater revolver that would be fairly indicative of other Colts, what model would you look for?
BryanJ
Colt Revolver Disassembly - Which Model To Practice On
What is your objective? To clean inside or just understand how it works - fine. To tweak anything, just NO. Please don’t do it. The problem is that multiple parts have 2 or even 3 separate, seemingly unrelated functions. Changing something to correct function #1 might screw up function #2. There are good reasons why most competent gunsmiths won’t touch old Colt revolvers.
I heartily recommend Kuhnhausen’s books if you want to learn. You never know about guys on YouScrewed, but you always can count on Jerry!
I heartily recommend Kuhnhausen’s books if you want to learn. You never know about guys on YouScrewed, but you always can count on Jerry!
Good point. No, I have no intent to modify anything. Just learn how they work, to field strip, etc.
Police Positive is a good one, there is nothing to them. Just make sure you have correct screwdrivers. I prefer to make my own bits. Just retimed my buddy's Detective Special, pretty straight forward process, but I've done it many times before. 8 out 10 vintage Colts will be out of time, some worse than others...
Old and beat up Police Positives or Official Police's would be ok. 3rd gen Detective Specials are fairly straight forward. I can't emphasize the advise on the Kuhnhausen books. I've got them for Colt SAA, DA's, even the 1911/Gov't models and a few more. They are the best place to help understand or figure something out with the old guns, other than having a lifeline to call such as Jim Martin with a SAA problem.
Well, my collection of revolvers is starting to grow for some reason. It's probably time to figure out how they work.
Had a next door neighbor would call my father he would take apart a firearm and could not figure out how to put it back together. Daddy would put it back together for him. Years later when his widow sold his entire collection a Fire Dept. bud of mine bought a Colt Navy with all the pieces in a box. He said " All the pieces were there, just couldn't figure out why he had it all apart".
It doesn't matter what the name of the gun is, Police Positive Special, or Detective Special are the same action. Army Special, Official Police, Officers Model, Python are the same action.
Colt only made 3-4 actions for most of the 20th Century. They have letters like "G Type" but they're all largely the same. Towards the end of the 20th century they came out with a few new ones like the Trooper.
Practice taking out the screws, removing the cylinder crane, and opening the sideplate on any of these and it's going to look the same inside.
Colt only made 3-4 actions for most of the 20th Century. They have letters like "G Type" but they're all largely the same. Towards the end of the 20th century they came out with a few new ones like the Trooper.
Practice taking out the screws, removing the cylinder crane, and opening the sideplate on any of these and it's going to look the same inside.
Well, I definitely would like to be able to do my own minor repairs and maintenance. I’ve got an Official Police where the crane binds very slightly and the crane retaining screw is not all the way seated. Probably someone took it apart and something went haywire on reassembly, and they slightly buggered the screw In the process. I need to feel comfortable making an adjustment like that because hopefully it’s an easy fix.
I was also somewhat leary of opening up some guns in the past. The one thing that often starts to mess you up are stuck screws. I've still got antique guns with stuck screws, that I could never get out. I've learned to be patient and just let them stay in place if they don't move with the proper sized screwdriver. Before trying any screws, I put a drop of CLP or Kroil on the head and post end to soak in for a few days.
I'll also give a strong recommendation to the Kuhnhausen Shop Manuals.
Kuhnhausen trained gunsmiths for the factories so everything he has in the books are factory techniques, and that's how things should be done.
Beware of online videos, some of that is how to ruin a gun.
One poster shows disassembling a Python, including how to remove the barrel...... with wire pliers !!!
Buy the appropriate shop manual and buy Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bits and "law enforcement" size handles.
I recommend buying the .150, .180, and .210 sizes in dash 2, 3, and 4, to get a proper fit on varying slot widths.
These bits will fit virtually every Colt and most S&W DA revolvers made since 1900.
Bits are cheap, screws are expensive and often hard to find.
Kuhnhausen trained gunsmiths for the factories so everything he has in the books are factory techniques, and that's how things should be done.
Beware of online videos, some of that is how to ruin a gun.
One poster shows disassembling a Python, including how to remove the barrel...... with wire pliers !!!
Buy the appropriate shop manual and buy Brownell's Magna-Tip screwdriver bits and "law enforcement" size handles.
I recommend buying the .150, .180, and .210 sizes in dash 2, 3, and 4, to get a proper fit on varying slot widths.
These bits will fit virtually every Colt and most S&W DA revolvers made since 1900.
Bits are cheap, screws are expensive and often hard to find.
I ain't no expert....an X is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure.....however, I can say that Colt revolver actions are, how you say?, intricate. My experience has led me to believe that there are some setups best left alone.
I thought it would be a brilliant idea to try and improve the double action in a PP.32. It was not lining up consistently in battery when trying to fire DA rapidly. A simple problem, and readily cured with a minor adjustment, or possibly a new part and some fitting. All well & good until it was time to actually make the thing run again. It sat on the bench for a long time as I tried again and again to make it run right. As it turned out, I had installed a critical linkage turned around and it would simply not run with the grips in place. After a frustratingly long trial & error, I finally got it right. I will not do such a thing again.
I also have an 1892 DA in pieces in a box that needs the ratchet pawl spring installed. It is a job that,so far, anyway, seems to require more hands(or fingers at least) to position the parts correctly for setting a very small pin. No fun. No fun at all. I will get it eventually, but golly gee willikers!
I have solved similar problems in other brands with only slightly less difficulty.
My suggestion would be to start with something that is harder to screw up, like a S&W. Nearly all of 'em can be slicked up without risking the mechanical intergrity of the gun. Same goes to a lesser degree for 1911s and High Powers. As long as you don't grind/stone off metal at critical places, you'll be ok.
In general, you don't have to dig into any of 'em any more than necessary to identify and fix a problem.
More advanced methods are pretty much the bread & butter of the professional gunsmith.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I am reasonably well equipped. Many correct screw drivers, every kind and variety of punch & drift, mallets, bench blocks, vise blocks, drill press, arbor press, hydraulic press, lathe, mill, several drilling vises, drills & taps, and a few specialty items for specific firearms, a few shop-made jigs and tools....... And I am strictly a home-grown amateur. I also keep a rather broad assortment of gunsmith screws and pins.
So, go easy. Take your time, and be patient. If this is what you want to do, don't be in a rush. And don't tinker on other folk's equipment beyond mounting scopes and such.
I thought it would be a brilliant idea to try and improve the double action in a PP.32. It was not lining up consistently in battery when trying to fire DA rapidly. A simple problem, and readily cured with a minor adjustment, or possibly a new part and some fitting. All well & good until it was time to actually make the thing run again. It sat on the bench for a long time as I tried again and again to make it run right. As it turned out, I had installed a critical linkage turned around and it would simply not run with the grips in place. After a frustratingly long trial & error, I finally got it right. I will not do such a thing again.
I also have an 1892 DA in pieces in a box that needs the ratchet pawl spring installed. It is a job that,so far, anyway, seems to require more hands(or fingers at least) to position the parts correctly for setting a very small pin. No fun. No fun at all. I will get it eventually, but golly gee willikers!
I have solved similar problems in other brands with only slightly less difficulty.
My suggestion would be to start with something that is harder to screw up, like a S&W. Nearly all of 'em can be slicked up without risking the mechanical intergrity of the gun. Same goes to a lesser degree for 1911s and High Powers. As long as you don't grind/stone off metal at critical places, you'll be ok.
In general, you don't have to dig into any of 'em any more than necessary to identify and fix a problem.
More advanced methods are pretty much the bread & butter of the professional gunsmith.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I am reasonably well equipped. Many correct screw drivers, every kind and variety of punch & drift, mallets, bench blocks, vise blocks, drill press, arbor press, hydraulic press, lathe, mill, several drilling vises, drills & taps, and a few specialty items for specific firearms, a few shop-made jigs and tools....... And I am strictly a home-grown amateur. I also keep a rather broad assortment of gunsmith screws and pins.
So, go easy. Take your time, and be patient. If this is what you want to do, don't be in a rush. And don't tinker on other folk's equipment beyond mounting scopes and such.
Well, my plan is to purchase a really humble but fully functional Official Police and master disassembly and reassembly, without modifying anything. You guys got my full attention on that issue for sure. I’ve already shown our local gunsmith the minor problem with the crane and screw on my 1942 military issue OP, and I’m going to let him fix that. Also, I just ordered a decent set of screw drivers.
Quite frankly I have never heard of anyone practicing taking screws in and and out. If you have some mechanical ability you can do most simple things. Some guns are quite easy to work on while other take the patience of Job. Certain procedures can only be done with special tools. Most guns will have a piece or two that requires some serious effort to put back into place. I think Clint said it best when stated you have to know your limitations.
And quite frankly, this thread is not about practicing to take screws in and out. I did however get some really good advice about Colt revolver maintenance. Kuhnhausen’s shop manual is now on order, with the caution taken to avoid any modifications. I do have an interest in learning the complete disassembly, and practicing on the beater, would be much more forgiving than learning the same lesson on my Pythons, Diamondback, Viper, Cobra, Detective Special, etc. I appreciate the very helpful input.
Just a side note - Kuhnhausen’s manual on the Colt Single Action Army includes the earlier versions of the Italian clones. That was a pleasant surprise for me. Think of his books as Chilton manuals for guns, only better.
If you talking about Police Positives, Pocket Positives, Detective Specials, Pythons, Official Police type guns the internals for the most part are all the same except for size. If you can work on a New Service, you can work on a Pocket Positive. 1873's, 1877"s,1878's are a different mech. i have done my 1878 and its completely different
Probably not at first. Some Kroil and CLP Breakfree oils will help with cleaning the insides. Some mineral spirits or acetone for stubborn internal hardened grease might be needed, but wait on that.
The general process is to disassemble or otherwise clean old oil or grease on the inside parts. Then apply a little fresh oil where you removed. Any metal on metal that rotates like the ejector rod can use 1 drop of oil. Any sliding surfaces that don't rotate use a bit of grease, because oil will be rubbed off of 2 parts that slide. Use Q-tips, and not much grease, if you use it. It can attract dirt worse than oil. Inspect for chipped or cracked parts.
The general process is to disassemble or otherwise clean old oil or grease on the inside parts. Then apply a little fresh oil where you removed. Any metal on metal that rotates like the ejector rod can use 1 drop of oil. Any sliding surfaces that don't rotate use a bit of grease, because oil will be rubbed off of 2 parts that slide. Use Q-tips, and not much grease, if you use it. It can attract dirt worse than oil. Inspect for chipped or cracked parts.
Other then the Brownell's Magna-Tip driver bits and handles, the only specialized Colt tools are needed to fully disassemble old style cylinder assemblies.
The crane bushing wrench is necessary for disassembly and nothing else will do....
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The second tool is a wrench used to unscrew old style cylinders.
These are no longer available so you make your own from brass or steel plate.
This is simply a tool that has a hexagonal hole that fits down over the ejector ratchet and is used to unscrew the ejector.
Some people use a socket from a socket set that fits over the ratchet but it's better to have an actual ejector wrench.
The crane bushing wrench is necessary for disassembly and nothing else will do....
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The second tool is a wrench used to unscrew old style cylinders.
These are no longer available so you make your own from brass or steel plate.
This is simply a tool that has a hexagonal hole that fits down over the ejector ratchet and is used to unscrew the ejector.
Some people use a socket from a socket set that fits over the ratchet but it's better to have an actual ejector wrench.
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