Ok im stumped here. The cylinder turns freely unloaded but insert a round and turn the cylinder to load another one and the case head binds where it appears to be on the lower part of the loading gate assembly, and the strange part is it doesnt do it all the time even when using the same case which by the way it performs this way whether its a factory round or one of my reloads. And yes the cylinder is clean. Ive looked closely at the area that appears to be binding and ive not seen any signs of burrs or other material that would cause this. Ive put approximately 200 rounds through the gun since I bought it about two months ago and it has acted this way since day one. The binding is light and wont prohibit the cylinder from turning but its annoying and would like to get it right. I did take some 600 grit paper on the back of a small file to relieve the suspected area but its not changed. All input appreciated. Additionally i can see the Rub marks on the outter edge of the case heads.
vietvet1968
This is not a common problem but does occur once in a while and just takes a little detective work. These are the checks that I would do:
1. Does the top front of the loading gate fit flush with the recoil shield when closed?
2. If you lay a straight edge thru the cyl window across the recoil shield near the firing pin and bottom of the front of the loading gate, is it flat with no gap between the recoil shield and straight edge?
3. If there's a gap, is the loading gate in tight, all the way to the rear in its socket?
4. If it is or not, remove the gate and check for burrs on the back side of gate hinge or around the socket keeping it from being inserted all the way to the rear? Or burrs or machining chips in the bottom of the socket hole keeping the shaft from going all the way in?
5. if no burrs are found, then relieve the back side of the gate hinge around the shaft, until the gate goes in farther and the case rims clear. It's case hardened so a flat stone will make better progress than sand paper. Or continue as you have done if you prefer, but with a stone. Polish with 1500 grit paper around a flat sanding block. Touch up with cold blue and oil on the metal to get a blotchy coloring to better match the case coloring.
Let us know what you find.
Jim
1. Does the top front of the loading gate fit flush with the recoil shield when closed?
2. If you lay a straight edge thru the cyl window across the recoil shield near the firing pin and bottom of the front of the loading gate, is it flat with no gap between the recoil shield and straight edge?
3. If there's a gap, is the loading gate in tight, all the way to the rear in its socket?
4. If it is or not, remove the gate and check for burrs on the back side of gate hinge or around the socket keeping it from being inserted all the way to the rear? Or burrs or machining chips in the bottom of the socket hole keeping the shaft from going all the way in?
5. if no burrs are found, then relieve the back side of the gate hinge around the shaft, until the gate goes in farther and the case rims clear. It's case hardened so a flat stone will make better progress than sand paper. Or continue as you have done if you prefer, but with a stone. Polish with 1500 grit paper around a flat sanding block. Touch up with cold blue and oil on the metal to get a blotchy coloring to better match the case coloring.
Let us know what you find.
Jim
Get hold of Jim Martin. He is the SAA king and a blast, pun intended, to talk to. He is a master gunsmith with a wealth of knowledge.
Jim I think you're spot on, I just compared the problem gun with one made in 011 and I can see the difference. The newer gun the gate is recessed back with the lower part almost flush with the frame, the other is not. Even a few thousands would make the difference but the gap is much larger than that..
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