Before you do anything, see if you can find someone at the range who already has had these things done and see if you actually like them.

You may not.

A 'look' doesn't make the piece more efficient, and an adjustable trigger isn't 'adjustable' for anything beyond trigger overtravel and not finger length - it's a 'match' thing, not a 'carry' thing.

The 'burr' hammer was designed to aid in concealability - anything different 'can' catch clothing - doesn't mean it will - just that it can.

 

well i have those same things on my desert eagle 1911 and i like them on it...thank you for the advice...God Bless John...i have seen a few with these changes and have handled one and really like it...i am just not sure which brand of parts i should be looking at.... it is nice to make it look good and personal too...

 

Go online, then - look at the Brownell's and Midway offerings.

One 'big' reason to see someone else's piece is to ask questions - not all aftermarket parts are drop-in, and some require fitting that involves modifying/grinding the frame or machining the slide.

You may not wish to do that, so you want to see what the different products look like, and how they fit.

Whenever I had a client who wanted something specific, I made certain that metal-to-metal fit was perfect - hence my note about drop-in parts, because they're designed to fit pretty much everything made, and sometimes there are gaps - some guys it bothers - some guys it doesn't.

Over time, I found that the more custom stuff I built - the closer my own piece returned to stock, and now sports a Gold Cup flat mainspring housing I'd drilled and cut for a GI lanyard loop, a GI National Match long aluminum trigger and a GI National Match barrel, bushing and link - all fitted.

 

I am not going to counsel you about what you should or should not do. I will share a few insights.

As said above, the adjustable trigger is merely adjustable for function dealing with over travel. Then you lock it in with thread locker. The trigger you have was adjusted in another way for correct over travel and correct pre-travel.

If you order a Novak, instead of sending your slide, you will want the .375 height version.

A beavertail you may find helpful. However, the good kind requires frame modification. The drop in variety leave an unsightly gap between the frame and safety. The drop in does not position the hand any higher than the rat tail you have now but does spread recoil out over a larger area. The drop in does allow keeping the frame original.

The officer's model does have a cult following now since it is not available factory new. They do bring more original than altered. The Defender comes with the features you are considering built in.

Some things to think about. Let us know what you decide.

 

The officer's model does have a cult following now since it is not available factory new. They do bring more original than altered. The Defender comes with the features you are considering built in.

Sound advice about the Officers Model and a flawlessly logical alternative, EXFI. I've owned more than one OACP and wish I'd kept them all. The one I have left is a 1990 model that I've owned for 24 years. Still 100% unaltered and it'll stay that way, too.

 

Hey, I have some of that stuff I don't need. Send me a PM if you are interested. Took them off a Combat Commander. EDIT - Never mind, these will not fit your firearm - I'm not familiar enough with these models.

 

I think you already have a list of what you would like done and would stick to that over what others would want. I do agree with DF, no adjustable trigger on a carry piece for me. K.I.S.S.

 

If your Officers ACP is to be a serious carry gun I suggest doing something about the weak OEM recoil spring plug and wafer-thin barrel bushing. Both are known to break during use, rendering the pistol inoperable until it's fixed. There are several aftermarket options out there, although most will require gunsmith installation.

 

well thank you all for the great input ...my father had bought a brand new one of these in the lightweight model when i was a kid in the mid 80's....he loved it and always regretting trading it...i am more of the mindset that originality is always best too...but the small changes i want to do...i will only do as long as i am able to easily to return the gun back to stock form after ward....i agree that most drop in parts usually do not always have the best fit....and i am very fussy about how well things work and look...one thing i did not realize that this has such a following...very cool to see how many people love these great guns too...God Bless John
hey to the springs...what is your opinion on the Wolf spring pack that is available for this model?......
please tell me more about this wafer thin barrel bushing?....

 

I think EGW and WC both have a replacement recoil system. I think they require a slide mod for a reverse plug. I have heard that the original system can work fine in some and give up in others. I shot mine a lot and it never gave me a lick of trouble.

 

Just a thought but maybe you could sell it and buy a new Defender. I saw an Officers about like that shopping today for $660 in a LGS and there seem to be new Defenders in the $900 area also at LGSs. That would give you the beavertail and Novak style sights, and some other features on a new pistol.

 

This from the Site Moderator of the 1911.com forum

Try not to fall into the common trap of wanting to replace everything on your new 1911 just to make it "better". Know what you're changing out, and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with. Shoot it for at least 500 rounds, then decide what you don't like and want improved. Vintage 1911's should NEVER be refinished or modified because it ruins any value they had as a collectible firearm.

You seem to have a lot of respect for John M. Browning...remember, he designed this pistol!

nowinca

 

well i have owned this for a long time...and i more than likely never sell it unless i am very ill...the main reason for the small changes which i know most will think i am crazy...it is because i really like them...i have looked at the defender and i like it too...it does look like everything i need...i may just change the trigger and hammer and the beaver tail...but i will not modify this gun frame in any way....i know the value i have here and it would be a shame to ruin anything just to get what i want...i have shot it quite a bit over the years...and never had any functionality issues in any way...and my Dad with his lightweight one too...he has not had any either...i know what i will do will not affect the value in any way as i can easily change the parts back if i ever do sell it...thanks all of you for your feedback...God Bless John
hey i have seen these officers models in stainless sell for about the same money as the defender around here too and have so many who have offered to buy it over the years....but a long time ago...i seen one that had the small changes like i want and was able to handle it ...and that i when i started thinking about all of this...and i am not a person who normally changes things to just do it...i am more of keep it simple and functionality....KISS is always best when it comes to a carry gun....