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Whats the best way to change barrel length? Rebarrel or cut?

8.3K views 24 replies 16 participants last post by  SDRider  
#1 ·
This may sound a little silly but I would appreciate some input on this. I have a Colt SAA with a 7.5 inch barrel. I would really like another short barrel pistol meaning a 4.75 or possibly 5.5 inch. (would love one with 3.75 but don't see that happening right now because of the ejector housing)

I have rebarreled many M1 Garands and a few 1903 Springfields in the past. I have the tools for this task. I do not have the proper tools to do a Colt SAA. So I will not attempt to do it and mar up the barrel with a pipe wrench and twist or crack the frame. I will seek help with this project.

So is it cheaper to buy a shorter barrel ( blue 2nd gen 45LC) and have someone re-barrel it for me or would it be cheaper to have someone cut down my barrel to 4.75 or 5 inch and set the front sight back on? Either way I would have to send my gun out to a competent gunsmith for this service.

Also who can help me do the barrel work.

Yes I know some of you are thinking just buy another gun.. Sometimes spending that much money really isn't an option, at least not at the moment. Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Well I went thru this myself and I found that finding the right barrel and swapping it out was the easiest way as u do not have to reblue the barrel or modify it
I did this to a 1962 Ruger Flat Top Blackhawk 44mag
It does take time to find the right parts
I find that anytime something is reblued it is very hard to match
Just my 2 cents
What gen is your gun?
2nd or 3rd?
Tell us more about the one u want to modify
Also very smart to not attempt this yourself as I looked into the tools needed and better to find the right person to make it look like it was never touched
I am sure there is a few great people on here who can do this for u
God Bless,John

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#3 ·
Dave.

You have to take the barrel off to blue it after soldering in the front blade - so a replacement is “easier”.

However...
Your blue 2nd Gen wears the same barrel as 1st Gens and those barrels aren’t cheap. If you find a suitable barrel the swap is very easy.

Cutting a barrel and milling a slot to use the salvaged front blade isnt difficult, just costlier.
 
#4 ·
SuperDave , can I call you Osborn? - In the past you have asked some good questions . They have been right in my wanting to learn base about Colt SAA , knowledge base so to speak . I'm in second grade , how about you . If you don't mind I'd like to ask to Mr Lever , when the new barrel would be set , what other work needs done ? I know this is a vague type question (second grade) . Does the forcing cone need recut? Length need be trimmed back after centering ? A few process steps explained would make my evening. You guys have a good evening and thanks for ALL the info.
 
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#5 · (Edited)
So is it cheaper to buy a shorter barrel ( blue 2nd gen 45LC) and have someone re-barrel it for me or would it be cheaper to have someone cut down my barrel to 4.75 or 5 inch and set the front sight back on? Either way I would have to send my gun out to a competent gunsmith for this service.

Also who can help me do the barrel work.



Option #1:
It would be better (and probably at no more cost) to buy the 4-3/4" barrel and have someone install. To cut the barrel it must be removed from the frame, lathe cut and crowned, then placed in a mill where a 0.100" wide woodruff key cutter mills the slot for the front sight. Then a sight is made (you cannot buy them) and silver soldered in place, the solder cleaned up, and then the blade sight finally shaped. Now the front of the barrel is discolored, so it must be 100% polished and re-blued, using the process that (hopefully) matches the original Colt blue. Then re-install barrel and sight in at a range.

Option #2:
Buy a 4-3/4" barrel and have a qualified gunsmith install it. Have him take to range and sight in. But before doing this, check to see if your original ejector housing will fit the barrel as is. If it is longer or shorter, then this housing may never work with the original barrel again.

Gunsmiths such as Alan Harton or Dave Lanara should be able to do this. Do not trust some local gunsmith lacking vast experience with the Colt SAA.
 
#6 ·
So is it cheaper to buy a shorter barrel ( blue 2nd gen 45LC) and have someone re-barrel it for me or would it be cheaper to have someone cut down my barrel to 4.75 or 5 inch and set the front sight back on? Either way I would have to send my gun out to a competent gunsmith for this service.

Also who can help me do the barrel work.



Option #1:
It would be better (and probably at no more cost) to buy the 4-3/4" barrel and have someone install. To cut the barrel it must be removed from the frame, lathe cut and crowned, then placed in a mill where a 0.100" wide woodruff key cutter mills the slot for the front sight. Then a sight is made (you cannot buy them) and silver soldered in place, the solder cleaned up, and then the blade sight finally shaped. Now the front of the barrel is discolored, so it must be 100% polished and re-blued, using the process that (hopefully) matches the original Colt blue. Then re-install barrel and sight in at a range.

Option #2:
Buy a 4-3/4" barrel and have a qualified gunsmith install it. Have him take to range and sight in. But before doing this, check to see if your original ejector housing will fit the barrel as is. If it is longer or shorter, then this housing may never work with the original barrel again.

Gunsmiths such as Alan harton or Dave Lanara should be able to do this. Do not trust some local gunsmith lacking vast experience with the Colt SAA.
Very well said
My thoughts exactly
God Bless,John

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#7 ·
If the hands of man have crafted a more aesthetically pleasing weapon than the 1873 Colt Single Action Army in it’s original 7 1/2” CCH/BBL configuration I’ve yet to encounter it...
That being said, should you feel so inclined as to part ways with this 2nd gen masterpiece how about do it via “liquidation” rather than “mutilation”.
Sell one of us that Cavalry length gun of yours to fund the purchase of that Sheriff’s Model your after!
But, if you insist on persisting with this endeavor, give this thread a read:

https://www.coltforum.com/forums/si...om/forums/single-action-army/87261-saa-barrel-removal.html#/topics/87261?page=2
 
#22 ·
If the hands of man have crafted a more aesthetically pleasing weapon than the 1873 Colt Single Action Army in it’s original 7 1/2” CCH/BBL configuration I’ve yet to encounter it...
That being said, should you feel so inclined as to part ways with this 2nd gen masterpiece how about do it via “liquidation” rather than “mutilation”.
Sell one of us that Cavalry length gun of yours to fund the purchase of that Sheriff’s Model your after!
But, if you insist on persisting with this endeavor, give this thread a read:

https://www.coltforum.com/forums/si...om/forums/single-action-army/87261-saa-barrel-removal.html#/topics/87261?page=2
i will always have a 7 1/2” colt SAA in my collection. I finally bought one about 10 years ago from a member here and it’s spot on accurate. Handles the recoil of a full power 45 colt with ease. It’s one of my guns I use when I want to appear as a “sleeper” or “pitch hitter”. If it were myself, I would first take your gun to the range with 45 colt 250 full power loads and set up some steel pivoting targets. Once you know where your gun shoots, it’s almost like shooting fish in a barrel but so much fun. Just my .02.
 
#17 · (Edited)
One thing I think wasn't mentioned yet, cutting a Colt barrel is taking a chunk of Colt steel and throwing it away making a part forever unoriginal. I say this having had a couple $50 John Kopec 2nd generation .45 barrels cut down in the 1980s. but you can do what JudgeColt advised here. I would try to trade it for a shorter gun.
 
#9 ·
You bought it , it's yours . Plain and simple , do what your heart tells you , you only live x amount of years. If hacking the barrel makes one less 7.5 incher, well that just makes everyone else's worth more.:eek:
 
#10 ·
Some Guy
The new barrel install would be fairly simple. I do this often enough.
Once the barrel is turned-in whereas the front blade is 12:00 a measurement is taken to determine the distance between the beginning of the barrel and the cylinder face. If that measurement is within .005 of an inch it’s good to go. If it’s more, then the body of the barrel needs trimmed back 7/8ths of a thread and re-installed.
This is to ensure a minimal gap from barrel to cylinder.
Then the beginning of the barrel would be squared (I use a hand-held facing cutter) to make the gap .003”-.005”.
Any time the barrel is reduced the forcing cone should be re-cut.
Step two is cutting as much from both the body of the ejector housing and the male end that fits in the frame.
On some models the EJ rod may need filed a tad as well so it doesn’t instrude into the cylinder.
 
#11 · (Edited)
LeverActionBill has summed it up nicely. If you buy a used barrel (and maybe I've just been lucky) the barrel to cylinder gap is usually good to go. If you get a new barrel, the you definitely need to trim the frame end of the barrel and re-cut the forcing cone. The tools to do so aren't that expensive and it doesn't require a machinist's skill to do. Depending on generation, and the desire to match the barrel stamping to the year made, barrels can go from less than $100 to atmospheric.

If you have the barrel re-cut it will have to be re-blued. And as far as I know you can't re-blue just the barrel and get it to match the rest of the gun, meaning you'll have to have the whole gun re=blued.
 
#13 ·
Myself if I am going to modify something of real value
Like this barrel best to keep the original just in case u ever sell it
That way it could be returned to original
But as stated earlier
If your heart is really set on short barreled one
Do it no matter what anyone says
I did mine and was told I was crazy and will never work and I am so glad I did
We are all great enablers
Pics of the gun u are working on too would be great
God Bless,John

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#16 ·
I have a .41 Colt SAA 4 3/4" made in 1900 just into the smokeless numbers but it had a barrel ravaged by black powder and poor cleaning for decades.
It still shot with acceptable accuracy but the bore pitting bothered me. It was pretty bad.
I ran across a 1st Gen 5 1/2" .44 SPL barrel & cylinder in great shape for $250 to change out but being the revolver was handed down to me from my father, I wanted to keep it in it's original configuration.
To my amazement, I ran across a member at OGCA putting a barrel & cylinder on his table and it happened to be a .41 1st Gen shorty in excellent shape for $200. No brainer.
Sent it all home with Dave Lanara and the gun shoots well and I'm a happy camper.
Now, I didn't devalue the gun as it was an old well used reblue anyway but this route was much quicker that having to shorten a longer barrel.
As others have said, make sure to choose the gunsmith wisely as not to ruin the frame but as I discovered, there are barrels out there reasonably priced.
 
#18 ·
Thank you everyone for all of the input.
First let me reassure everyone I will never cut up a valuable 1st gen gun. I am asking the question to gather information so I can make an informed decision. I was considering shorting the barrel on my 125 anniversary SAA. I know many of you do not care for these but do see the value of them as shooters. I want another fast draw gun.
I realize a 2nd gen barrel cost more than a 3rd gen barrel. The last nice 2nd gen 45LC 4.75 barrel sold for $200 while I see the same with the 24 TPI sell for around $75.
The only thing that was mentioned here that I did Not think of was relocating the sight back (if cutting a barrel) would need to be reblued after soldering it on. Many years ago my shooting buddy and mentor Walt( his father invented the Marciante Blue Streak, a wildcat cartridge) told a funny story how they had a customer bring in a Colt SAA with a 7.5 barrel that wanted it shortened. So they brought it in the back room and took a hacksaw and cut the barrel off and handed it back to the customer Just to mess with him. After they had their laugh they explained that they would recrown the barrel etc...

I'm not sure what I will do but I see I do have options. Although I don't have dollar figures yet for the labor and that will play a big part of the decision making. I guess it all depends on if I can find a good barrel at a good price.

Thanks again
 
#19 · (Edited)
You are doing just fine with messing with your own stuff , that is why we get into the hobby . Good luck man . I would , like I have , keep the original and replace out . I've done this with all of my interests from motorcycle to classic boats to firearms. Pretty sure you have a feel for it. To the nea sayers , how many thousand were made and what are we talking money wise , couple a bucks . These aren't Gods , just toys , you can see a lot here just stare and polish. Use um boys , they will out last you.
 
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#20 ·
Well from the sounds of it
You answered your own question
Find that barrel and get it installed
Also post a Want to Buy on here and maybe someone has that barrel u need and I would contact some of the great gunsmith in here as they may have that barrel and be able to do the work for u
Can not wait to see it all done
God Bless,John

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#21 ·
You are doing just fine with messing with your own stuff , that is why we get into the hobby .
I sure am! I have a 38 Ford with a 454 in it, and a 69 ElCamino worked up as a street strip car that took me 6 months of no TV time to build. I have rebuilt more Garands than any man should of. Not to mention all the tweeking I have done to my long range rifles.
The Colt bug really bit me and now I am wasting all my free time with them. My other toys are on the back burner as I have wanted to put my Uberti away for 30 years and finally did it. My poor bank account shows it too...
God Bless.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I just replaced the 5.5” barrel on one of my Colts with a 7.5”, found a new barrel on eBay ($100) and my friend just happens to have fixtures for the SAA. The old barrel came right off but the new barrel( not a take off...it was new) required removal of a tiny bit of the shoulder to turn straight, then the gap was set at .004 and an 11 degree forcing cone cut. From a rest at 7 yards a one hole group of six rounds was fired about 1 1/2” low 1 “ left, I have yet to remove any material from the front sight until I have shot it more.
 

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